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Technical Punto HGT won't start. Fuel pump? Also weird CODE warning light...

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Technical Punto HGT won't start. Fuel pump? Also weird CODE warning light...

AndyRKett said:
Both in the original post and in post 10 its stats *Without* the engine warning light.
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Doesn't say it does or doesn't come on at all does it? ;)

AndyRKett said:
Question: why would you go to the effort to remove a bulb on the dash when selling an already non-running car the bulb could have blown as a more reasonable idea but I think the theory is a bit far fetched and in any case the light will illuminate with the ignition to indicate if it is working or not then extinguish.
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It's not uncommon to disable the EOBD lamp to cover another issue with the engine. Many would see a 'minor' keycode issue as a simple fix, whereas an engine lamp could suggest other horror stories. Anyway, who's to say it was removed for this issue? With the car sold with an engine unable to start, it would hide a more serious and expensive problem well. The OP has not said the engine lamp comes on at all, so I was hoping to clarify this. ;)

AndyRKett said:
Remote keys can be opened allowing the changing of batteries but also the removal/loss of the transponder chip which is why its a good idea to check and see if its even there. normal keys you can't remove the chip without hacking the key to bits
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It would be a little unusual to lose/remove the transponders from both sets of keys making them both unusable, wouldn't it? Some may say, far-fetched? :D
 
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Can't be bothered to argue, I've worked with electronics and cars electronics for years so have seen it all, I will bow to your ability to argue to the point where I no longer care

The problem Is most probably a key fault and I would suspect a stolen recovery where an insurance co have cut keys that fit the locks but not spent the £1k they would need to at a main dealer to fix it all. in all likely hood there are chips in the keys but it is an easy check. Either way I'll leave it to your obviously superior knowledge to fix ;)
 
Wow. Thanks chaps.

I've opened both keys and there are chips inside (also tiny pill-shaped things, what are they?) The keys do not look very new, so I don't think they've just been made but haven't been coded correctly.

And sorry, I should have been more specific about the orange engine light. It does come one briefly when the ignition is first turned on, so it isn't obscured, but soon goes out. (When I said there's no light, I meant that that particular bulb isn't registering a fault.)

Tomorrow I'll have another rummage for this code, but I take it opinion is divided...!

Thanks again for your help.

T
 
AndyRKett said:
Can't be bothered to argue, I've worked with electronics and cars electronics for years so have seen it all, I will bow to your ability to argue to the point where I no longer care

The problem Is most probably a key fault and I would suspect a stolen recovery where an insurance co have cut keys that fit the locks but not spent the £1k they would need to at a main dealer to fix it all. in all likely hood there are chips in the keys but it is an easy check. Either way I'll leave it to your obviously superior knowledge to fix ;)
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Vic_Bob_Handbags_1.jpg

No need for the hissy fit because someone who spent over 10 years on Fiats, especially the mk2 Punto, has a slightly different diagnosis than you.

LOL @ £1k to supply and code two keys! :cry:
 
I think you'll find that the pill shaped things are for the immobiliser, the chips for the battery powered remote.

It's a puzzle. If no FIAT based solution comes to hand, you might be able to run the engine off an Alfa 155 1.8 ECU. Throw the canbus crap in the bin where it belongs and hardwire everything else. Fit an aftermarket immobiliser. The car will probably weigh another 5kg, but who cares?

Or megasquirt..............
 
gimmiemorefiats said:
I wonder if this thread is relevant? If so, any idea where I'd find this relay on my HGT? I'm working blind without a repair manual.

https://www.fiatforum.com/multipla/253224-key-code-light-remains-car-wont-start.html

Also, what happens when the batteries in the keys die? Could it be as simple as that? The red LED in the keys flash when I press the buttons, but maybe that's not enough?

T
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Not to sure which relay it could be, but the differences between the Punto and Multipla are numerous, including the fact that most functions are done internally in the Body Computer, so I doubt it'll help.

The battery in the fob has no relation to the workings of the keycode recognition, it's purely there for the remote c/locking signal. When switching on the ignition, the key data is read by an antenna mounted around the ignition barrel, compared to the accepted stored data in the Body computer, then the "start-up enabled" data is sent to the engine ECU.
 
I can't find the code anywhere, but on second thoughts I don't think it would be much use anyway. To 'type in' the code, I would expect the engine warning light (what the book calls the 'ignition system warning light') to come on if I hold down the accelerator, but I've tried this and it doesn't come on, so I wouldn't have any way of inputting the code.

Immobiliser box??
 
gimmiemorefiats said:
I can't find the code anywhere, but on second thoughts I don't think it would be much use anyway. To 'type in' the code, I would expect the engine warning light (what the book calls the 'ignition system warning light') to come on if I hold down the accelerator, but I've tried this and it doesn't come on, so I wouldn't have any way of inputting the code.

Immobiliser box??
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Are you doing it right? Hold accel pedal down, switch on ignition, ECU light comes on then goes out, release pedal and ECU lamp should begin flashing, if I remember correctly.

Getting the codes from your Dealer will only be around £30, plus then you'll have your radio code too. If you can't get the emergency procedure to work, you can still get it recovered/towed to the Dealer for them to code the keys in properly. It's your cheapest option.
 
D4nny8oy said:
Are you doing it right? Hold accel pedal down, switch on ignition, ECU light comes on then goes out, release pedal and ECU lamp should begin flashing, if I remember correctly.

Getting the codes from your Dealer will only be around £30, plus then you'll have your radio code too. If you can't get the emergency procedure to work, you can still get it recovered/towed to the Dealer for them to code the keys in properly. It's your cheapest option.
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Ah, ok that's slightly different from the manual, which says turn key first, then depress accelerator. I'll try your way in the morning. Thanks D4nny8oy.

Is there any connection between the radio code and the key code? I have a card with the four-digit radio code (engine code is five digits apparently)... in fact I have two audio system cards with two different codes - only one of them activates the stereo.

Don't know where the other card has come from. If the stereo has been changed, would that mess with the ignition code??
 
gimmiemorefiats said:
Ah, ok that's slightly different from the manual, which says turn key first, then depress accelerator. I'll try your way in the morning. Thanks D4nny8oy.

Is there any connection between the radio code and the key code? I have a card with the four-digit radio code (engine code is five digits apparently)... in fact I have two audio system cards with two different codes - only one of them activates the stereo.

Don't know where the other card has come from. If the stereo has been changed, would that mess with the ignition code??
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Nope, radio code is purely for the radio- it has no bearing on the keycode. Do you have the CD changer in the lower part of the centre dash console? If so, the other code is for this unit. ;)

Another option is to speak to the Parts Dept. and see how much they charge to supply a keycode card. It may be cheaper than obtaining the codes via ISR, but will take a day or two to order in (as opposed to 30 mins via ISR).
 
D4nny8oy said:
Nope, radio code is purely for the radio- it has no bearing on the keycode. Do you have the CD changer in the lower part of the centre dash console? If so, the other code is for this unit. ;)

Another option is to speak to the Parts Dept. and see how much they charge to supply a keycode card. It may be cheaper than obtaining the codes via ISR, but will take a day or two to order in (as opposed to 30 mins via ISR).
Click to expand...

Yes, there is an interchanger but it doesn't work. That explains it then, thanks!

I'll get in touch with the parts dept. You seem fairly sure it's just a matter of getting the code, rather than replacing a unit? I hope you're right.
 
The standard CD changers often dont work.

The non starting and non remote door opening sounds like the keys have been cut to fit the ignition lock but they dont have the original electronic internals. A good auto locksmith/electrician should be able to sort you out.

The ECU codes can be read with a laptop and OBDII cable for about £10 (if you have a laptop). For £45 you can get the fully working software to look at everything. For another £20 you can get coloured adaptor cables making hook up foolproof.

The engine and gearbox are very similar to the Alfa Romeo 1.8TS so a Haynes for one of them would give most of the service & repair data you might need.
 
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