Key code light remains on and car won't start
Just fixed this problem on a Fiat Multipla JTD 2001
Using this link I changed a little red relay on the passenger side near feet.
(the forum won't let me post the useful url, wanted to give credit to the original poster, can probably google "key or immobilizer problem.txt")
Here is the original text just in case the link disappears
I am so happy that such a cheap solution worked that I have to share it!
Key/Immobiliser question...
The Problem...
My issue is that the car recently has some real hassles starting. Has been doing it a few months now, but seems to be getting worse. When turning the key, the orange 'code' light will either stay on (which I gather from reading other posts means that the immobiliser hasn't read the key code), or it won't light at all. When it does light, most of the time the little coil & injector lights DON'T light - and when this happens, the code light remains lit and then the immobiliser's active.
Workaround is to keep pulling the key out and turning again, and again, and again - and eventually the code, coil and injector lights will light up, and when this happens - the code light goes out. Following which there's about a 20 second delay before you can hear a quiet little relay click somewhere around the passenger side at the front, and then if you turn the key all the way, it'll start. If you try and start before this 'click', the engine will generally start, but then die. And then it's back to square one (although usually...the next turn of the key produces all 3 lights, so just another 20 sec wait).
So, I'm guessing it's either the battery in the key, or something more sinister. Problem is...when I got the car, I only got one key with it - and the key does not have a button for central locking or alarm. I just assumed it's not got remote central locking, so it's always key in the door to open. It's just a blue key, and it doesn't seem to be in two halves...by which I mean I can't see any 'line' around the middle where you could split it and change any battery in the thing.
The Answer...
Have sorted this issue out, and thought I'd tell the tale for the benefit of others.
Headline: If your JTD is playing funny buggers with the CODE light intermittently staying on, thus requiring much key turning back and forward before starting...and you KNOW that it's not:
A: Key battery
B: Aerial ring
then, before taking the offending Multi into a FIAT dealer for expensive diagnostic experimentation...spend 5 minutes to:
Try changing the red relay mounted behind the fuse immediately to the lower left of the (probably BOSCH) ECU up in the passenger footwell.
You'll need a deep 10mm socket to remove the nuts securing the protective plastic 'kickplate' covering all the plugs & wires at the bottom of the ECU too. That's all the tools you'll need! Just pull the relay out, put a new one in (or borrow one from somewhere else...there's at least 2 of the same relay up in the fusebox under the drivers oddments tray).
I'd had the car at an auto locksmith, who for a mere £10, tested the key and aerial ring without problem. He also plugged a diagnostic computer in and couldn't find any problems of note. I then spoke to a Fiat dealer, who advised it'd only be the key, aerial or the code-ECU, but they'd have to do diagnostics @ around £70 an hour! The locksmith had recommended as a last resort fitting a live 12v feed to the diesel pump to bypass the immobiliser with a switch in the car to control it! Didn't really fancy that, truthfully...
I then found Kings Lynn Auto Diagnostics, where a very friendly and helpful chap called Peter Remmington can reprogramme your ECU (if you send it to him) to remove the immobiliser completely...a 'freerunning' ECU. (Clearly, implications for insurance if the Multi's nicked, but I figure they're not a joyrider favourite..)
I'd seriously recommend this guy if the relay fix doesn't work, you don't want to pay big money to Fiat for a new CODE system, and you're prepared to risk the insurance issues. Just google him, or 'multipla freerunning ECU'. He can do the JTD Bosch ECUs.
So, that's what I was about to do, basically. Then, in process of removing my ECU - knocked that relay out, and wondered...
Swapped it for one up in the fusebox, reconnected car battery, and hey presto - CODE / Injector / Coil lights on and off, car starts first time, repeatedly.
Very, very chuffed.
Hope this might help someone else in future!
Dave
Just fixed this problem on a Fiat Multipla JTD 2001
Using this link I changed a little red relay on the passenger side near feet.
(the forum won't let me post the useful url, wanted to give credit to the original poster, can probably google "key or immobilizer problem.txt")
Here is the original text just in case the link disappears
I am so happy that such a cheap solution worked that I have to share it!
Key/Immobiliser question...
The Problem...
My issue is that the car recently has some real hassles starting. Has been doing it a few months now, but seems to be getting worse. When turning the key, the orange 'code' light will either stay on (which I gather from reading other posts means that the immobiliser hasn't read the key code), or it won't light at all. When it does light, most of the time the little coil & injector lights DON'T light - and when this happens, the code light remains lit and then the immobiliser's active.
Workaround is to keep pulling the key out and turning again, and again, and again - and eventually the code, coil and injector lights will light up, and when this happens - the code light goes out. Following which there's about a 20 second delay before you can hear a quiet little relay click somewhere around the passenger side at the front, and then if you turn the key all the way, it'll start. If you try and start before this 'click', the engine will generally start, but then die. And then it's back to square one (although usually...the next turn of the key produces all 3 lights, so just another 20 sec wait).
So, I'm guessing it's either the battery in the key, or something more sinister. Problem is...when I got the car, I only got one key with it - and the key does not have a button for central locking or alarm. I just assumed it's not got remote central locking, so it's always key in the door to open. It's just a blue key, and it doesn't seem to be in two halves...by which I mean I can't see any 'line' around the middle where you could split it and change any battery in the thing.
The Answer...
Have sorted this issue out, and thought I'd tell the tale for the benefit of others.
Headline: If your JTD is playing funny buggers with the CODE light intermittently staying on, thus requiring much key turning back and forward before starting...and you KNOW that it's not:
A: Key battery
B: Aerial ring
then, before taking the offending Multi into a FIAT dealer for expensive diagnostic experimentation...spend 5 minutes to:
Try changing the red relay mounted behind the fuse immediately to the lower left of the (probably BOSCH) ECU up in the passenger footwell.
You'll need a deep 10mm socket to remove the nuts securing the protective plastic 'kickplate' covering all the plugs & wires at the bottom of the ECU too. That's all the tools you'll need! Just pull the relay out, put a new one in (or borrow one from somewhere else...there's at least 2 of the same relay up in the fusebox under the drivers oddments tray).
I'd had the car at an auto locksmith, who for a mere £10, tested the key and aerial ring without problem. He also plugged a diagnostic computer in and couldn't find any problems of note. I then spoke to a Fiat dealer, who advised it'd only be the key, aerial or the code-ECU, but they'd have to do diagnostics @ around £70 an hour! The locksmith had recommended as a last resort fitting a live 12v feed to the diesel pump to bypass the immobiliser with a switch in the car to control it! Didn't really fancy that, truthfully...
I then found Kings Lynn Auto Diagnostics, where a very friendly and helpful chap called Peter Remmington can reprogramme your ECU (if you send it to him) to remove the immobiliser completely...a 'freerunning' ECU. (Clearly, implications for insurance if the Multi's nicked, but I figure they're not a joyrider favourite..)
I'd seriously recommend this guy if the relay fix doesn't work, you don't want to pay big money to Fiat for a new CODE system, and you're prepared to risk the insurance issues. Just google him, or 'multipla freerunning ECU'. He can do the JTD Bosch ECUs.
So, that's what I was about to do, basically. Then, in process of removing my ECU - knocked that relay out, and wondered...
Swapped it for one up in the fusebox, reconnected car battery, and hey presto - CODE / Injector / Coil lights on and off, car starts first time, repeatedly.
Very, very chuffed.
Hope this might help someone else in future!
Dave
