Technical Power windows

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Technical Power windows

Weissmuller

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Dec 13, 2020
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Good evening everybody
First of all, let me apologise for my English as it’s not my native tongue.
It’s s the first time I’m posting on the forum and I’d like a helping hand.
So, I have a 3door Fiat stilo 1.4 16v 2004 model and my power windows, both of them,at the same time, stop working...all the rest, central locking and mirrors are working. When I push the buttons to open the windows I hear a single click from the relay inside the module located in the door panel. Driver’s and passenger’s side do the same click.
Long story short, checked the fuses, checked T13 relay (also bought a new one to be sure), checked the cables that go to the doors, checked both switches, checked the window motors ( directly connecting them with the battery to check ) windows moved normally so it is not the regulators, checked the pin connectors and cables that go to the modules and finally as I couldn’t find anything wrong, I bought new modules for the doors….but…..nothing changed, a single click and nothing moves.
I would very much appreciate it if anyone has addressed the same problem and found a solution or if you have something to purpose, other than the obvious solution of a professional.
Thank you,in advance, for your time.
 

Ralf S.

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Dec 3, 2003
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If anything electrical in the door works, like the puddle light, or the central locking etc. then the connector plug inside the door is okay. When that gets a connection issue, the whole door "dies" electronically.

Also, it's unlikely that both switches have failed at the same time (at least one of the driver's door switch or the passenger door switch should open the passenger window, for example). And anyway, you can hear the relay.

If the fuse and the T13 relay are both fine, and the regulator works when you attach current directly to it, then the problem isn't a conventional electrical issue.

Do you have the FiatECUScan software? I'm fairly sure that I've seen door or window modules come up in the checks that can be made. If it's a "module" then it's probably controlled by the Body Control Module behind the fusebox inside the dashboard.

If you drop down the fuse box (I think it rotates) you'll see a lot of big connector blocks attached to what looks like a plastic box. That's the BCM.

It might be worth taking the connector blocks off (they're held in with simple lever arms, which you have to swing open, then the block comes out all by itself) and then clean/spray them, that might re-establish a dirty or disconnected contact.

If that doesn't work, then you'll have to find out which pins on the BCM controls the window regulators (if that's the case) and see whether the BCM is providing a signal.

The BCM takes in instructions from the switches etc. and then sends out a signal to the appropriate module.. so a BCM fault would make the "input" work (the relay click) but the "output" may be dead.

BCM faults are fairly rare... but I had trouble as above with my high beams (blue light worked but the lights were dead, even though everything else checked out okay).

Ralf S.
 
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Weissmuller

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Thank you very much for the reply. I have the software and i will check everything you told me. Next week on my days off i'll update the post and i hope that i'll come back with a solution!
 

Ralf S.

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The other contender is the fusebox behind the battery. That can suffer from getting wet (I don't know how wet Greece gets during the summer, but you never know... :D ) especially if you don't have the big black battery cover fitted.

The fusebox has two halves and a lot of metal plates inside it (like a sandwich). If moisture gets in between, the metal can corrode and lose a circuit. I've never had to dismantle mine, so I don't have any experience of it.. but if your fusebox looks like it's been wet/damp/mouldy then that might be an area to explore.


Ralf S.
 
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Weissmuller

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Dec 13, 2020
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Hello again. Problem finally solved!!! After obd check, fuses check, relays check, doors modules check and my inner self starting the "oh you gonna drive with closed windows as long as you have this car" i've played my last card, from the fuse box, under the dash, to the battery everything was taken apart and checked. So, i came upon a barely naked wire. When the car was parked it was ok but i believe that when the car was moving could touch the body of the car thus the ground effect (i suppose) that couldn't give the optimum voltage for the windows. I changed it and finally everything is back to normal. Not to mess you up with upside photos and staff like that i'm posting a diagram that shows the exact line from battery to fuse box to the relay and finally to the window module. Thank you guys again for your suggestions.
 

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