Technical Panda 2010 active 1.1 noise

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dukeboys

dukeboys

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Dang. Not even made it. Car died on me on the way to the garage. Smells horrible. First time the eml light came on too.it starts but is very shaky so now waiting to be recovered....thought she would at least get me 6 miles up the road but reckon if i push it its gunna make it worse.breaking down isnt so bad on a clear road but in rush hour its the pits.

Wondering with a tow if the electric pas will be ok if the engines not on.....
 
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dukeboys

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Rac has diagnosed as a bad or leaky injector. He disconnected inj 1 and she runs like a sewing machine. Sniff test says no gases in the water. The oil has no water in it either so it could be a quick fix. She sounded nice and strong when revved with no.1 disconnected and no pinking or rattling noises so just about to get towed now......
 
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Towing with the engine dead should work (ignition switched to run position so the steering isn't locked of course!) BUT, there will almost certainly be no power assistance or if, at first, there is it will disappear very quickly as battery voltage drops So be prepared for some quite physical input to the steering wheel, the steering will be very heavy!

I wonder if that injector has been part of the problem all along?
 
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chris3234

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He stuck it on a trailer so all good....car is in hospital now awaiting the surgeon.....

Most of the main breakdown company's won't tow cars on anything but a trailer/low loader or a frame trailer with the front wheels loaded


They won't usually tow people with a rope as 1 it's only for emergency to get you somewhere safe and 2 your avarage driver would end up crashing trying to drive a car being towed and the company's insurance would likey then have to pay out
 
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dukeboys

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Heads coming off. The injector was fine apparently but still getting low compression on cyl 1 could be a burnt valve they think.....disappointing.
 

koalar

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Rac has diagnosed as a bad or leaky injector. He disconnected inj 1 and she runs like a sewing machine. Sniff test says no gases in the water. The oil has no water in it either so it could be a quick fix. She sounded nice and strong when revved with no.1 disconnected and no pinking or rattling noises so just about to get towed now......

leaky injector are rare on a Panda likely to be something else me thinks

at least you know its definitely a problem with cylinder 1
 
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dukeboys

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Garage hsve found a clear leak in the head gasket between cyls 1 and 2. Explains why the oil and water were good compression was 73 and 140 in those two and 170 in cyls 3 and 4. Head pressure checked all good just waiting for it to be built back up. Bill is as yet unknown but guessing itll be c.£400.
 

jrkitching

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Garage hsve found a clear leak in the head gasket between cyls 1 and 2. Explains why the oil and water were good compression was 73 and 140 in those two and 170 in cyls 3 and 4. Head pressure checked all good just waiting for it to be built back up. Bill is as yet unknown but guessing itll be c.£400.

Gasket breakdown between two cylinders is quite a common way for a head gasket to fail. In such cases, the coolant passages usually aren't compromised, so a coolant check will show nothing amiss.

A lot depends on whether the head is warped, and whether the mating faces on the head & block have been damaged. If machining is needed, it will push things up considerably, so fingers crossed it's all sound.

The parts aren't massively expensive; it's the labour cost that will make up most of the bill.

I'd give serious thought to replacing the cambelt & water pump at the same time; it shouldn't add much more to the job than the cost of the parts, since it's all coming apart anyway.
 
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dukeboys

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Wp and cambelt was replacef in july so it should be okay. I wonder how long its been since that stsrted to leak. Im hoping its slowly been going for a while as thr drop in power will be very hard to notice over many months since i bought her in july. Should feel pokier once back up and running.
 
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Wp and cambelt was replacef in july so it should be okay.

I'm always a bit nervous about refitting a cam belt that's run for a wee while let alone for years. Because the pump - and presumably the tensioner too? - was replaced so recently my preference would be to buy just a belt and retain the pump and idler when building it back up. The belt on it's own can be had for almost "peanuts".

PS. Most of the garages around here seem to automatically have a head resurfaced when a gasket has failed. I suppose it absolves them from possible failure due to failing to diagnose a distorted head?
 
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koalar

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PS. Most of the garages around here seem to automatically have a head resurfaced when a gasket has failed. I suppose it absolves them from possible failure due to failing to diagnose a distorted head?

sounds silly

if its flat within tolerance and undamaged why waste time and expense raising the compression and reshim to produce something which is also within tolerance and undamaged.

Race engine builders dont automatically skim heads
 
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sounds silly

if its flat within tolerance and undamaged why waste time and expense raising the compression and reshim to produce something which is also within tolerance and undamaged.

Race engine builders dont automatically skim heads
Completely agree with you. I think they do it for "insurance". Myself? After cleaning up the mating face, I have an engineer's straight edge which I use to check both in line, across and diagonally. If within 1.5 thou I'm a happy bunny! - Let sleeping dogs lie being my motto - I also check block deck in the same way but have only ever encountered one make which consistently had problems which was the Hillman Imp however that was often due to the thin rim of ally around the top of the bores being eroded or otherwise damaged.

Anyone with an engine which has "loose (wet)" liners don't forget to check bore protrusion is correct and if not then the liners need to come out and the shims at the bottom and top will need to be redone. Don't think any of our FIAT engines have "wet" liners though, do they?
 
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dukeboys

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Definitely head gasket. Cant believe how bad this looks though........all good now.
 

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Popitinpete

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sounds silly

if its flat within tolerance and undamaged why waste time and expense raising the compression and reshim to produce something which is also within tolerance and undamaged.

Race engine builders dont automatically skim heads
Won't require reshimming after skimming with bucket and shim head because your not touching the valves or altering the cam height. pushrod engines will need tappets setting again after though.
 
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dukeboys

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So all good now except at idle every now and again i get this very slight wobble or miss for a split second. Never did it before the head gasket went so whats worth checking?
I hate intermittent problems like this. No EML light and she seems to otherwise be great with decent power again
I did fill up with 99ron super unleaded momentum at Tesco since i got the car back and now thinking she doesnt like this petrol.i thought it was 97ron not 99!
Do we think its the petrol and these 1108 cc motors really should just be run on 95 normal E10 petrol? Im thinking this is of my own making cus between collecting the car and brimming the tank i really dont recall it missing like this....i drove about 8 miles home with what was left in the tank so Normal e10 and i swear it never missed a beat.....surely the ecu should adjust to the higher ron....?
 
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