Technical Any Tips for 2009 1.1 Active Eco Service

[koalar]

Don't pull straight up,.there angled the one to the left of centre need pulling slightly to the left


There are tools to make the job easier, although I have never needed any

You can take the other end off the coil and pull and turn anticlockwise

There's a good chance this bit will unscrew off

With the plug out, screw it back on, now it's in front of you it easier to grip than reaching round the back


do them on at a time and put the HT leads back so you don't forget where they are from, good practice, although if it's the centre two it does not matter so much

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

Don't pull straight up,.there angled the one to the left of centre need pulling slightly to the left


There are tools to make the job easier, although I have never needed any

View attachment 469357


You can take the other end off the coil and pull and turn anticlockwise

There's a good chance this bit will unscrew off


Put the HT back on the coil


View attachment 469358

Maybe. However the ones I've bought over the last few years, mostly NGK I must admit, don't have this bit screwed - looks the same but it's a solid part of the centre electrode.

 

[koalar]

Maybe. However the ones I've bought over the last few years, mostly NGK I must admit, don't have this bit screwed - looks the same but it's a solid part of the centre electrode.

Cirrect

It's pot luck

Depends on brand, NOS, how tight they are

At least some are still removable

Under the correct 55188857


But more and more are supplied with a fixed terminal

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

Cirrect

It's pot luck

Depends on brand, NOS, how tight they are

At least some are still removable

View attachment 469360

Under the correct 55188857


But move and more are supplied with a fixed terminal

I don't find it such a problem with cars, even quite old ones, as the leads can quite easily be replaced if need be to cope with it. However it's a much bigger problem on my elderly horticultural stuff where the lead is often terminated in the coil - permanently fixed, not a plug in like on a car's coil - and has to be unsoldered or uncrimped to remove it. Fitting the new one often is not very simple either. And all this often requiring removal of the flywheel which is often mounted to a taper on the crankshaft and doesn't want to come off! This is all bad enough when the shaft and flywheel are keyed but some are not and have to be very precisely matched relative to the firing position of the engine - In other words, these engines are usually of the points and condensor type with the points cam position relative to the position of the flywheel in relation to the crankshaft. Just to clarify, to time these engines usually the piston is set a certain distance before TDC - maybe 1/8th of an inch - and then, without allowing the crank to turn, the flywheel with it's attached cam is rotated DOR until the points just open. The flywheel retaining nut/bolt is then done up tight to ram the flywheel onto the taper. A lot of these older engines have an exposed terminal which fits over the projecting screw thread on the older type plug - great for giving a "wake up" shock to the unwary! I like to keep them looking like this for authenticity.

By the way, if you have a more modern machine, like a mower, cultivator or whatever with a small engine and are having difficulty starting it because it backfires and snatches the pull cord out of your hand - Sore, isn't it! - Then it's very likely the woodruff key between the flywheel and crankshaft has sheared and allowed the flywheel to move slightly in relation to the crankshaft thus altering the ignition timing. The small Briggs and Strattons are prone to this especially if you've hit a large obstruction while mowing, like ab ig stone or kerb or whatever, anything which stops it pretty much dead. It's easy enough to sort as the key is sacrificial and designed to shear in an attempt to save the crankshaft nose from bending or twisting. In theory, all that's needed is to remove the flywheel, clean the broken bits of key out of the slots and fit a new one. Unfortunately though, it's not unusual for the impact, if it's been a heavy one, to bend the crankshaft anyway. B&S advise against straightening the bent shaft as they are known to break subsequently in service, which can be "entertaining" if the engine is running at speed with the blade attached, OUCH. If the shaft is bent a previously smooth running machine will vibrate heavily due to the imbalance. I have straightened a number of shafts, but only ones that are out of true by a mm or two, measured at the end of the shaft. More than that and I'd replace it, which, by the time labour is added in makes a replacement engine a viable option, especially if you're prepared to take a chance on one of the very affordable "knock offs" made in the far east - which are getting better with every one I've looked at. The big problem with then though is getting spares as they age. With something like a Briggs you can get spares everywhere and quickly too.