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500 (Classic) New Canadian Bambino!

My 1967 500 F which has definitely seen better days. Neglected and stored away, it made its way to Canada, and is undergoing the restoration it deserves.

Introduction

Hi folks,

New member but long time lurker here. I have been on the hunt for a cinquecento for over 3 years now. Ive been a classic car enthusiast since i could remember and it was time to add some Italian flare to my overly German and American garage collection. I got the 500 bug for after servicing and enjoying a 500 that a friend of mine owns. I finally was able to get my hands on a 67 500F, and im overly joyed. I just finished a resto and full rebuild on a 75 911S, and kept on finding myself wanting to drive my friends Fiat over the Porsche. The Porsche is gone, and i needed to fill the empty void.

The car itself needs some TLC, and had been disassembled and partially sandblasted before "supposedly" its previous owner gave up on it. From my recollection, the car had not been on the road at all since it was brought in to Canada, and the engine had work done to it back in 92, more then likely back home in Italy. It is a bit of a basket case, as it has had some hackery done to it in its previous repairs. But its in safe hands now.


I am in the process of tallying all body panels needed (basically all lower panels, all fenders, all inner fenders, floor pans, etc the works. And slowly making a list of parts to order from the UK.

I couldn't wait to dig into the engine, and was able to clear a bench to start the tear-down process. The motor had a 540cc 70mm cylinder upgrade done to it in its past life, but had also seen some abuse. The cyl and pistons are in great shape, but the tappets and case cam holes need R&R, i ordered some C932 bronze stock, and will be machining insert sleeves for the cam. I plan to do some port/polishing and tweaking to this 540. I have forged 118mm connecting rods on their way as a "safety" insurance, for the fun it will see.


In a few years im planning a trip to Italy, family friends have a summer home just a hr away from D'Angelo Motori, and i will definitely be visiting them for some more spice to add. Coupled with a 650 block that im sure is much easier to find overseas then here in Canada. But in the mean time im going to enjoy the original 500/540 block to its full potential.

The car itself is an original F, someone had changed the front sheet metal in its early life. I will be restoring it back to its formal mustache glory. The car was originally "453 Medium Blue". I am leaning more towards keeping a blue, but going with more of an aqua marine shade. I have a paint sample "Frozen Blue K5J " from the 2018-2020 Porsche Taycan. Its a very mild metallic/pearl. So should still keep with the "solid/classic paint style" with some added depth. Again this hasn't been set in stone, and might change as i progress with the resto.
Nice work. The type of Blue you used looks great.
WOW!
That is a project . Plenty of hard graft going on there mate.. lovely job
This is an incredible restoration! Well done! you have some amazing skills and attention to detail. I could only wish.

@Bounding Bambino any chance you can give me the ppg paint code for this blue in your line up?
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i am looking for the paint code for the traditional Blu Turchese, but not having luck. Like this car:
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i simply love it. If anyone has that Fiat paint code and year, i would really appreciate it!
 
Let me see if i can find the can tonight and get you a ppg number. Unfortunately. The original fiat number was not in the database for the paint shop. North american shops dont have alot of the european only colour codes. Especially from that era
 
The Fiat code is 419. Blu Turch
Thanks for that info @fiat500 ! And thanks for the offer to look @Bounding Bambino !

For folks in North America, i found this website that actually claims to have that paint code: https://www.automotivetouchup.com/

If you use 1967, Fiat, All Models in the search criteria, you will see Fiat paint code 419. It is not named "Blu Turchese", but i am still hopeful. I ordered a can of the aerosol, along with some other colors to see how they look.
 
Thanks for that info @fiat500 ! And thanks for the offer to look @Bounding Bambino !

For folks in North America, i found this website that actually claims to have that paint code: https://www.automotivetouchup.com/

If you use 1967, Fiat, All Models in the search criteria, you will see Fiat paint code 419. It is not named "Blu Turchese", but i am still hopeful. I ordered a can of the aerosol, along with some other colors to see how they look.
Ive been looking for the spray can, and heck if i can find it. It was my only reference to the colour code printed on the outside. If you still need it, i will continue on the hunt if i find it burried in one of my boxes.
 
Ive been looking for the spray can, and heck if i can find it. It was my only reference to the colour code printed on the outside. If you still need it, i will continue on the hunt if i find it burried in one of my boxes.
No worries! I am officially on my color journey and have a selection of samples I am considering. Thanks for looking!
 
Long overdue update time!

i had to re-read the past few posts on the thread to see where i had left off. Looks like the last update was Nov 1; time really does fly by.

Although the car slept during the winter months, the interior work was well underway. The kick pads, door panels, seats, everything; all got new covers and foams. My mom did all the gunt work of planning, cutting and sewing. I did all the motivating 🤣 . Finding automotive grade materials was not the easiest task in my area. The right threads, foam backers, adhesives took months of sourcing, running around and testing just to find the right combo for the style and finish i was looking for. A few samples were made, and then we hit the ground running.
Overall we both couldn't be more pleased. A nice touch of a vintage sport style interior with modern foam and cushions for comfort. The front seats turned out phenomenal, i was always impressed by the factory shape of the 500's seats, how they have a nice curve and supportive hugging back especially if you want to get a bit sporty with the cars handing. And for me, the top of the seat frame fits perfectly below my shoulder blades and gives comfortable support for a low back style seat. The seat bottoms incase anyone was interested has basically 5 layers. 1st layer is heavy duty canvas clipped to the seat frame springs, 2nd a layer of automotive felt to help prolong the life of the foam. 3rd new foam urethane cushions, 4th, a foam support backer stitched to the leather. and finally the leather top. The rear bench is basically the same, however without the foam urethane insert on the bottom bench. The rear spring frame is very simple, and adding too much thickness causes fitment issues. One tip, i found the rear seat frame pretty much useless for anyone of actual weight. I stuffed in a few pool noodles into the wire frame cavity to add significant sturdiness if by chance a full grown adult wants to sit in the back.

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The seats still need some steaming to get any slight wrinkles out, and forming as they get used.




Engine wise, i did a bit of messing around with flywheel lightening. I made a simple single axis balancer untill i have time to build a dynamic balancer, and was able to get the flywheel to within 1g of balance. The stock flywheel was 5.84kg. I realize that there are downsides to certain applications when lightening the flywheel. I found that the stock flywheel caused too much engine over-run when driving; obviously this experience is from the stock 499cc 500 i had drove previously. But the one issue i found, especially in our hectic traffic was having to constantly wait for the engine to slow down between shifts, along with mediocre throttle response due to the heavy factory flywheel. Yes there is a way to finesse the drive train, but it definitely was lacking any sporty response. Obviously to each their own. But i did want to take a tad of weight off the flywheel. At least for an experiment. After some machining, then adding some lightening holes (after seeing examples scattered online). I was able to get the weight down to 4.41kg. A decent reduction of 1.43kg. Which seems to be a happy medium for this type of setup. We will see once i begin driving.

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A few weeks ago we had a 3 day streak of phenomenal weather. 3 days of 27c. and i maximized those days. On my to-do list was a final finish sanding of the doors, with a coat of sealer, then 3 coats of colour. Couldn't of gone any smoother. After a few weeks of curing, a bit of wet sanding and buff brought the doors to a show high gloss. I also spend the last few weeks wet sanding and buffing the car. Although the paint came out decent, nothing beats a full leveling and compounding to even out any mild imperfections. I also did some compounding on the rear lid, and began to install the trim and badge, another milestone.
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In my mid winter parts order, i got a set of the camber adapter plates. Hoping this would help a tad with the camber issue the front had. even though the bottom control arms are adjustable. The top of the wheel was in too far at the top for my liking, and being set at a lower ride height, was causing the geometry to be off. I spent last weekend jacking up the car, and mounting the plates in. I gave them a quick black powder-coat, and bolted them in. major improvement.

I also got around to mounting and running the hoses for the new dual master brake resistors. The black and red theme is scattered thru out this build :) I did however originally have a 126 dual master cylinder reservoir to use, it just didnt fit properly. Unlike the original single reservoir for the 500 which had the hose spiggot come out at a 90 degree. The 126 version comes straight out the bottom, and unfortunetly makes mounting impossible in the stock location. I sourced these motorcycle reserviors and they seem to do the trick. I used the original 500 mount, bent it in the metal brake, then bolted the new holders ontop. Some nice matching hose clamps, and hose, and it silly overkill.

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There are a few more update tidbits but ill show them off in the next update. And im sure i missed a few things.
 
Last edited:
Mr. Bambino

I've been following this closely from the beginning and I must say that it is truly remarkable. The quality of your work really butters my biscuit, and I cannot wait to see the finished project.

Sincerely

Fiat Adjacent
(P.s. some high-cri LEDs would really make the colours pop!!!)

I second @Fiat Adjacent... this work is amazing and is a great inspiration for me!
 
Past couple of weeks have been eventful. Whatever free time i find, the car takes it all.

Ill break it down into sections to help keep the progress in order;)

Engine:
After bolting on the flywheel, it was time to deal with the elephant in the room; the carburetor. Last summer i picked up 2 ICH 34's, and then when i visited Tom, i bought a ICH32 from him. Which would more then likely work better for this 540cc build. Thing is, Its not a quick swap and go upgrade. The weber ICH is a completely different bolt pattern, and requires a spacer-adaptor to match.
All winter long i was making a final parts list to order from axel gerstl, they have what looked to be the cast adaptor i needed to make it work. However I wasn't fully decided on if it was a make or buy for the carb adaptor. I didn't go much into the overall cost of this build, but you get to a point where you reach your limit of enough is enough, either it be cost or time (its been multiple stages of that thru this build LOL). As silly as this sounds, this adaptor as insignificant as it might seem on the grand scheme of things, was getting close to breaking that point. Its like 115€ plus shipping, plus duties, and conversion. The stupid thing was going to cost me over 220$ for 5$ of material, which is not a hot and flashy Dellorto FZD or Twin Weber.
Also, I still was not fully sure the adaptor would work for the application. Its listed as a Dell'orto 32, and the research i could find seemed like it has the same footprint. I made a choice; either i go down the entire journey of trying to machine a relatively complex part, get into a casting system, or bite the bullet and get the adaptor. I was getting close to the end of having to constantly reinvent the wheel; i bought the dumb adaptor.🫣

Parts showed up after a long wait. First thing, grabbed the adaptor bolted the carb on, and tried to fit it. Not a chance. I have a cast aluminum abarth valve cover, and the adaptor sat so close to the cover that the linkage on the accelerator pump hit the cover even without any throttle actuation. Ok i snapped, time to do it the right way my way. Ill save the lengthy details, as ive gone on for too long. Built up a small casting rig, designed and printed 3 revisions of the new part. Did some flow testing and such and came up with the perfect adaptor for my application. All at the same time while learning about aluminum casting, casting metallurgy, high temp hydrogen gas porosity, and shrinkage tolerances. Casting v3 had all the reversions i needed, had a decent surface finish (could of spent more time making the mold core a smooth surface), and had no porosity during final machining. A quick surface sanding and then a quick candy apple powder coat and it fit the engine spot on!
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With the carb mounted, the temptation was too much, i had to run it. At at least do a 2500rpm lifter break in, i really wanted to do the break in under load on the dyno, but i havent even had a chance to build it yet, dry run it is. I spend a day to finish the final exhaust bracketry, and the engine was ready to run.

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I couldn't leave you folks hanging without a video 😊

The rattle mid way was a loose exhaust bolt.
Still need to tune and possibly jet the carb, but all in due time


I
Past couple of weeks have been eventful. Whatever free time i find, the car takes it all.

Ill break it down into sections to help keep the progress in order;)

Engine:
After bolting on the flywheel, it was time to deal with the elephant in the room; the carburetor. Last summer i picked up 2 ICH 34's, and then when i visited Tom, i bought a ICH32 from him. Which would more then likely work better for this 540cc build. Thing is, Its not a quick swap and go upgrade. The weber ICH is a completely different bolt pattern, and requires a spacer-adaptor to match.
All winter long i was making a final parts list to order from axel gerstl, they have what looked to be the cast adaptor i needed to make it work. However I wasn't fully decided on if it was a make or buy for the carb adaptor. I didn't go much into the overall cost of this build, but you get to a point where you reach your limit of enough is enough, either it be cost or time (its been multiple stages of that thru this build LOL). As silly as this sounds, this adaptor as insignificant as it might seem on the grand scheme of things, was getting close to breaking that point. Its like 115€ plus shipping, plus duties, and conversion. The stupid thing was going to cost me over 220$ for 5$ of material, which is not a hot and flashy Dellorto FZD or Twin Weber.
Also, I still was not fully sure the adaptor would work for the application. Its listed as a Dell'orto 32, and the research i could find seemed like it has the same footprint. I made a choice; either i go down the entire journey of trying to machine a relatively complex part, get into a casting system, or bite the bullet and get the adaptor. I was getting close to the end of having to constantly reinvent the wheel; i bought the dumb adaptor.🫣

Parts showed up after a long wait. First thing, grabbed the adaptor bolted the carb on, and tried to fit it. Not a chance. I have a cast aluminum abarth valve cover, and the adaptor sat so close to the cover that the linkage on the accelerator pump hit the cover even without any throttle actuation. Ok i snapped, time to do it the right way my way. Ill save the lengthy details, as ive gone on for too long. Built up a small casting rig, designed and printed 3 revisions of the new part. Did some flow testing and such and came up with the perfect adaptor for my application. All at the same time while learning about aluminum casting, casting metallurgy, high temp hydrogen gas porosity, and shrinkage tolerances. Casting v3 had all the reversions i needed, had a decent surface finish (could of spent more time making the mold core a smooth surface), and had no porosity during final machining. A quick surface sanding and then a quick candy apple powder coat and it fit the engine spot on!
View attachment 422915View attachment 422916View attachment 422917View attachment 422918View attachment 422919View attachment 422920


With the carb mounted, the temptation was too much, i had to run it. At at least do a 2500rpm lifter break in, i really wanted to do the break in under load on the dyno, but i havent even had a chance to build it yet, dry run it is. I spend a day to finish the final exhaust bracketry, and the engine was ready to run.

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Incredible dedication and skill.!!!!!!!!
 
Excellent update! Your attention to detail is as impressive as ever, and mad props to embarking on casting a one off part!

So many times I have gone down a similar route where I try to buy my way out of a problem, only to realize that I should have just built it myself!

Also, nice bellows on the exhaust! I don't think I've seen that before on these. The engineer in me gets so giddy when I see these details - great work!
 
Thanks for the comments (y)

Also, nice bellows on the exhaust! I don't think I've seen that before on these. The engineer in me gets so giddy when I see these details - great work!
So about those. It was kinda an experiment to see if they would help reduce vibrations down the exhaust system. As we know these parallel twin engines cannot be perfectly balanced thru out the rev range, and the art of balancing these engines is more of a trial and tune finding/choosing the best optimized balance rpm for the application. With many secrets held back online in discussions when choosing the best balance factor for these engines. The best i could do for now was to try and keep odd harmonics from creating havoc and isolate out reaching components as much as possible. One of the suppliers i buy parts from (Vibrant performance) a great local company ive been dealing with. Had a great selection of exhaust parts and goodies to experiment with, and these bellows were something i wanted to try. We will see how it will perform once its in the car. With the added sound deadening and fresh bushings all around, it should help to keep engine vibration down. Plus im hoping it will help reduce any thermal stress between a rigid stainless exhaust and aluminum block/head. But more-so, when i plan to swap around 500, 126, panda 30 heads; I was hoping these would help give me enough flex in case there were slight differences in wiggle-room depending on machining and whatnot is done to them.
 
2 updates in a day! 😊

Body:

So starting off from a few weeks ago. Gave the interior a quick wetsand, buff and seal. I personally found the interior of these cars hard to paint, hard to fit the gun in tight spaces, and typically automotive interiors dont have as much exposed metal as the tiny 500. I unfortunately had a few small paint runs in some corners, but nothing the razor technique, 1000g, 1500g, 3000g couldn't fix. Dash turned out really nice, imo the showpiece of the 500. Once done, some of the interior bits went in like newly wrapped knee panel and visors. It was awesome to see the interior come to life. A layer of automotive one side reflective Jute felt went in, should give a nice soft feel as a carpet backer.

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With the doors all painted i installed them on the car, and began installing the window trim. Saving and refinishing the original quarter glass assemblies help with a painless fit. The new seals were a tad tight, but they will conform with age. Passenger side and driver side went without major issue. Door handles were installed, along with the latch assemblies. A quick hinge adjustment (i drilled location holes while i did the body work so all i had to do was shove in 1/8" drill bits in the hinge holes and it all aligned up). Cant complain, panel gaps are very consistent, and body lines flow without issue. There is one tidbit i skipped over, but will go in detail in the electrical update.

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One issue i was facing during the body work and door alignment was the door seals. I misplaced the set i had purchased at the beginning of the build, Tom helped save the day and got me a set when i went over to visit. I then found my original seals 🤯. But either set i just unfortunately wasn't happy with the fit. It wasn't a quality issue, both were a oem decent quality gasket with internal reinforcements, i just found them both to be a touch too stiff when the door closed, and required a significant slam to get the door latch into its 2nd indent. No amount of hinge adjustments or body seam flange adjustment would get the seal right. I even left them on with the doors closed for months, and couldn't get the rubbers to "break in". I spent hours on the hunt trying to find a slimmer profile seal. In the land of vintage muscle i swear it would of been a simple task, but honesty is impossible to find that D profile gasket in the dimensions needed. Funny enough, of all places i found a seller on aliexpress that had a whole slew of profiles. Now you always have to take things with a grain on salt on AE, lots of junk or poor quality product on there. But i took the chance as i had no other options. I ordered 2 sizes, and low and behold when they arrived, the larger of the 2 worked perfectly. Quality was top notch too, good rubber quality and metal cored also. I was pleasantly surprised.
Here's the link in case any one is interested in also trying. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002390307686.html
Type "3" was the one that fit perfectly, dimensional photo for reference.
1-Meter-Rubber-Edge-Guard-Edge-Trim-Soundproofing-Car-Door-Seal-Strip-Noise-Insulation-Weather...jpg


Pedal System:
That final 10% of the build is always the hardest. Or so, you leave the hardest to solve to the end 😋


With the upgrade to the 126 rack in my case the steering universal joint landed right where the clutch pedal wanted to be. There were a few revisions to the clutch pedal design thru out the years, with mine being the older style (clutch cable lever and pivot one assembly, arm with bushing). I had been contemplating how to solve this. The easiest being welding a tube/bar in that wraps around the steering shaft then cutting out the original arm to clear. Something about doing that didn't seem right. Last week i stared at it for a while, then rummaged thru my bins. I had a few new "gen 2" style clutch pedals, and devised a plan. I removed the shaft from the new pedal. Machined a new "longer" tube sleeve, and spaced out the pedal enough to graciously clear the universal joint. With a few added benefits. The original travel stop no longer worked, so i welded a tab threaded a bolt with a double nut that will allow me to adjust pedal stop height which is nice. And second!, i always found the original pedal location very tight for my feet. I always had to take my shoes off and drive bare foot, or wear a slim pair of puma driving shoes. Not that im against driving accessories for the 500, but i wanted a tad bit more space. The new location spaces the pedal about an extra 3/4" out, with still lots of space between the inner fender. Should be a good compromise when driving. The safety/design aspect of the brake pedal is untouched

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2 updates in a day! 😊

Body:

So starting off from a few weeks ago. Gave the interior a quick wetsand, buff and seal. I personally found the interior of these cars hard to paint, hard to fit the gun in tight spaces, and typically automotive interiors dont have as much exposed metal as the tiny 500. I unfortunately had a few small paint runs in some corners, but nothing the razor technique, 1000g, 1500g, 3000g couldn't fix. Dash turned out really nice, imo the showpiece of the 500. Once done, some of the interior bits went in like newly wrapped knee panel and visors. It was awesome to see the interior come to life. A layer of automotive one side reflective Jute felt went in, should give a nice soft feel as a carpet backer.

View attachment 422927


With the doors all painted i installed them on the car, and began installing the window trim. Saving and refinishing the original quarter glass assemblies help with a painless fit. The new seals were a tad tight, but they will conform with age. Passenger side and driver side went without major issue. Door handles were installed, along with the latch assemblies. A quick hinge adjustment (i drilled location holes while i did the body work so all i had to do was shove in 1/8" drill bits in the hinge holes and it all aligned up). Cant complain, panel gaps are very consistent, and body lines flow without issue. There is one tidbit i skipped over, but will go in detail in the electrical update.

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One issue i was facing during the body work and door alignment was the door seals. I misplaced the set i had purchased at the beginning of the build, Tom helped save the day and got me a set when i went over to visit. I then found my original seals 🤯. But either set i just unfortunately wasn't happy with the fit. It wasn't a quality issue, both were a oem decent quality gasket with internal reinforcements, i just found them both to be a touch too stiff when the door closed, and required a significant slam to get the door latch into its 2nd indent. No amount of hinge adjustments or body seam flange adjustment would get the seal right. I even left them on with the doors closed for months, and couldn't get the rubbers to "break in". I spent hours on the hunt trying to find a slimmer profile seal. In the land of vintage muscle i swear it would of been a simple task, but honesty is impossible to find that D profile gasket in the dimensions needed. Funny enough, of all places i found a seller on aliexpress that had a whole slew of profiles. Now you always have to take things with a grain on salt on AE, lots of junk or poor quality product on there. But i took the chance as i had no other options. I ordered 2 sizes, and low and behold when they arrived, the larger of the 2 worked perfectly. Quality was top notch too, good rubber quality and metal cored also. I was pleasantly surprised.
Here's the link in case any one is interested in also trying. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002390307686.html
Type "3" was the one that fit perfectly, dimensional photo for reference.
View attachment 422935

Pedal System:
That final 10% of the build is always the hardest. Or so, you leave the hardest to solve to the end 😋


With the upgrade to the 126 rack in my case the steering universal joint landed right where the clutch pedal wanted to be. There were a few revisions to the clutch pedal design thru out the years, with mine being the older style (clutch cable lever and pivot one assembly, arm with bushing). I had been contemplating how to solve this. The easiest being welding a tube/bar in that wraps around the steering shaft then cutting out the original arm to clear. Something about doing that didn't seem right. Last week i stared at it for a while, then rummaged thru my bins. I had a few new "gen 2" style clutch pedals, and devised a plan. I removed the shaft from the new pedal. Machined a new "longer" tube sleeve, and spaced out the pedal enough to graciously clear the universal joint. With a few added benefits. The original travel stop no longer worked, so i welded a tab threaded a bolt with a double nut that will allow me to adjust pedal stop height which is nice. And second!, i always found the original pedal location very tight for my feet. I always had to take my shoes off and drive bare foot, or wear a slim pair of puma driving shoes. Not that im against driving accessories for the 500, but i wanted a tad bit more space. The new location spaces the pedal about an extra 3/4" out, with still lots of space between the inner fender. Should be a good compromise when driving. The safety/design aspect of the brake pedal is untouched

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I love this color scheme more and more with each update. Can't wait to see it all together!

Nice and elegant solution for the pedals!
 
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