It looks like you might have to fit a Heli-Coil inser to repair the stripped thread.
You can get a kit in some Auto Factors or from on-line suppliers. Measure the thread - it's probably 6 x 1.00mm (thread diameter x pitch/distance betwen thread peaks) and the length of thread required. The kit usually includes a drill bit of the required size, a tap to suit the outside thread of the insert, a tool to install the insert and a selection of inserts. It would be a lot cheaper to bring the carb. top to someone with the necessary kit and have them fit an insert for you.
What you could try before the above fix is to clean the stud threads and carb body threads carefully and then use one of the Loctite products designed to fit components together permanently, not the usual threadlock, something like
Stud 'n' Bearing Fit (271?) or Sleeve & Bush Retainer (648?), although you might get away with Lock 'n' Seal (242?) or regular Threadlock. For cleaning you could use Loctite cleaner/Primer or something like Acetone/ Brake cleaner.
Another possibility is that if the stud just keeps turning but doesn't pull out under load, might be to drill a small hole down the side of the stud, catching both the threads of the stud and of the hole and tap a small pin/trim nail in to prevent the stud from turning.
Clutch adjustment? You sure have a lot of free play- normally it's less than 1 inch, measured at the pedal pad while just taking up the slack and bringing the release bearing into contact with the pressure plate fingers - just as you seem to be demonstrating. In fact, in your video showing the clutch operating arm movement, it's possible to hear the release bearing make contact with the clutch pressure plate. I notice also that you're just about out of available adjustment on the cable where it attaches to the release arm. Is there any adjustment at the other end of the cable e.g. can the short arm that attaches to the pedal crossshaft be repositioned? (Nice job on the pedalbox, by the way
). If not there may be some incorrect components fitted? wrong cable/release bearing/release arm? Idk.
To get more adjustment, you could drill out the threads in the adjusting nut and use a tubular spacer and two nuts locked together. I'd try adjusting the clutch pedal freeplay to 1 inch or a bit less and then try the clutch engagement/ gear selection.
Re:- The steering rod joints.
I've never had one just unscrew and remove as the taper on the ball studs locks them into place.
2 ways to remove them - often called breaking or splitting the ball joints!
First loosen the nuts but don't remove fully (you don't want to risk damaging the threads in case you need to re-use the joint)
1st way is to use 2 hammers -a heavy one positioned on one side of the arm (to act as a backstop) where the pin passes through and a smaller one to strike the arm, opposite the 1st hammer, the shock usually pops the pin out of the tapered hole. You need to hit the arm quite sharply.
2nd way is to use a proprietary 'steering track rod end remover' or 'ball joint press'. These are available in different designs. There's a forked type that is hammered into the joint between the steering arm and the steering joint. This almost inevitably ruins the dust boot, so should only be used on a joint that you intend scrapping. The second type has a scissors action - fork and pressure arm one end, forcing screw on the other end - tighten screw until the steering joint ballpin is popped out of the steering arm. This type doesn't damage anything. The third type fits over the end of the steering arm and joint and a pressure screw pops the ballpin out of the arm. Again, this type doesn't damage anything.
Afaik, some of the big Auto Factors hire these tools out or loan them free except for a returnable security deposit. They're not really worth buying for a one-off job. - which is why I mentioned the old 2 hammer method.
There are also air-powered ball joint separators available, again a fork type or you can use a blunt/mushroom ended air chisel against the steering arm in line with the ballpin to pop it out.
2 notes of caution.
1. Wear eye protection and heavy gloves.
2. If using the 2 hammer method - check that you have a free reign of motion when swinging a hammer, also that if you were to miss with the hammer, that you won't crush you fingers between the hammer handle and something solid like a brake drum/disc. Don't ask me how I know this
Finally, when disconnecting the old track rod ends from the track rods (the long split tube with the clamps) just loosen the locknuts. When you unscrew the trackrod ends, count the number of threads from the locknut to the end and transfer the locknuts to the new trackrod ends leaving the same number of threads to the end. This way when everything is back together, the tracking should be the same as it was, but it should still be checked. Afaik, new track rod ends don't come with locknuts fitted.
Regards,
AL.
