Technical Maybelline has thrown a hissy fit

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Technical Maybelline has thrown a hissy fit

How old is your car gazz?
I think that is what I'm alluding to.

JR suggested that we should check our 500's if they are two years old.
I'm suggesting that it's more complicated than that. It depends on how many times the hatch has been opened and closed, not how old or how many miles the car has done.

It could be that the paint wears away gradually as the hatch is operated time after time after time .................

Regards,
Mick.
 
I think that is what I'm alluding to.



JR suggested that we should check our 500's if they are two years old.

I'm suggesting that it's more complicated than that. It depends on how many times the hatch has been opened and closed, not how old or how many miles the car has done.



It could be that the paint wears away gradually as the hatch is operated time after time after time .................



Regards,

Mick.


Yes but I also suspect the crappy insulation deteriorates and becomes brittle over time regardless of use, particularly in cold weather as someone already pointed out, regular use obviously doesn't help though!
 
Absolutely. It's also necessary to consider what's connected to the other end of these cables and in partcular the way the BCU obtains the information it needs to generate fault messages for the lighting & indicators & communicates this to the MFD.

Like almost all modern cars, the way in which the various electrical and electronic components and modules interconnect is complex. Diagnosing & repairing these sort of faults needs more than just a knowledge of ohm's law.

Diagnosis through software is only part of the solution and it's important to remember that the diagnostic equipment might not work correctly if there's a wiring fault that's causing a crossfeed, stray live or ground condition. A technician who relies on first putting a car with an issue like this onto examiner could easily be misled about the true cause and spend many hundreds of punds of your money replacing the wrong parts. Reading between the lines of past threads, I'm sure this has happened to several folks here already.

We had a numberplate light fault. It turned out to be a bulb dislodged and the holder out of its location. I clicked it all back together and all was well.

The Haynes manual seems to suggest that there are two power feeds and an earth. Fine, I'm sure they're correct.

BUT

When I fixed the fault, we had a the flashing odometer problem!

Therefore there's more to this than just power and ground.

Regards,
Mick.

In terms of wiring to the lights, it is just power and ground.

The "bulb sensing" is done inside the BCU; in series with each light power connection is a small, low ohm, sense resistor. When current's flowing through this, a voltage is developed across that resistor.

Now, that voltage is either fed into an ADC input (possibly integrated into the BCU "chip"- I'd put fair money on the BCU simply being a microcontroller surrounded by support components- mostly passives and switching MOSFETs I suspect) or into a comparator circuit.

In the first case the thresholding (checking if the voltage, and hence current, for each bulb is within the expected range) is done in firmware, in the second case the comparator does it and feeds a low or high voltage into the MCU.

Why this should cause a multitude of firmware faults beats me; but perhaps it's worth remembering that BCU firmware may well be less thoroughly tested than ECU software, so these wiring faults may be somehow causing an issue within the BCU. It could be something as stupid as the firmware not being able to handle getting pulses on the wiper position feedback line when the wiper is switched off.

If it is the wiring issue causing the BCU to through a hissy, replacing the BCU may do nothing- unless in a cruel twist of fate new BCUs have upgraded firmware.
 
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I haven't built up the courage to look at the wiring condition yet, but had a look to see if there is any wear on the grommet or hose. I know that isn't necessarily an indication of what's happening below but didn't expect to see this on the paintwork..........View attachment 154553

Sisters 11 plate 500 is like this also (n)
 
Recent posts here, whilst still interesting, have moved completely off-topic, so I've moved them to a more appropriate place.

The recent discussion picks up here, where you can continue what has turned out to be a rather popular thread!

I've been too busy with other stuff to deal with Maybelline's wiring just now, but I'll pick this one up again once I start fixing it.
 
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.....

I've been too busy with other stuff to deal with Maybelline's wiring just now, but I'll pick this one up again once I start fixing it.


Did you fixed it in between and what did you pay for?

Regards Lars
 
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Did you fixed it in between and what did you pay for?

Regards Lars

Tbh I've parked the problem; the Panda is more useable as a daily driver & I don't need the 500 just now, so it's sat on the drive with the battery removed since this happened.

But your thread revival has reminded me that I ought to go and sort it!
 
Tbh I've parked the problem; the Panda is more useable as a daily driver & I don't need the 500 just now, so it's sat on the drive with the battery removed since this happened.

But your thread revival has reminded me that I ought to go and sort it!

Goodness me... Off the road for nine months?! That's a shocker :eek:

Why not get some test lead wiring as you said or RC car silicone wiring as someone suggested, I'm sure you'll have all those wires joined up within an hour... Doesn't matter if they're all the same colour, that's how the Giulietta is made (all black wires into the tailgate).

I'll be really interested to read the conclusion. I guess you might be up for a new battery now. Meanwhile our 2008 500 has no wiring problems yet.

-Alex
 
Meanwhile our 2008 500 has no wiring problems yet.

Ditto for my 2008 1.4 Sport - goodness knows why, as the boot has been used a fair bit over the last 7.5 years. The boot release microswitch did stop working for a while last winter but then it decided to work again (sprayed the switch area with contact cleaner and it started operating again a few days later) and has been fine ever since.

Have to say the car really has exceeded my reliability expectations given the common niggles experienced by many here. It just goes on and on, year after year without issues (OK, the rear shocks and a wheel bearing did go somewhat prematurely). Perhaps it's a long fuse delay mechanical time bomb that's soon going to explode in my face...
 
Ditto for my 2008 1.4 Sport - goodness knows why, as the boot has been used a fair bit over the last 7.5 years. The boot release microswitch did stop working for a while last winter but then it decided to work again (sprayed the switch area with contact cleaner and it started operating again a few days later) and has been fine ever since.

Have to say the car really has exceeded my reliability expectations given the common niggles experienced by many here. It just goes on and on, year after year without issues (OK, the rear shocks and a wheel bearing did go somewhat prematurely). Perhaps it's a long fuse delay mechanical time bomb that's soon going to explode in my face...

Attempting to find the pics associated with the loom repairs,
is there a definitive GUIDE on the Forum ? I couldn't find one in 20 mins of searching..,
ta
 
Tbh I've parked the problem; the Panda is more useable as a daily driver & I don't need the 500 just now, so it's sat on the drive with the battery removed since this happened.

But your thread revival has reminded me that I ought to go and sort it!


I have just brought this kit from Germany for under £48. Here is the link

http://www.autoteilemann.de/sencom-k...00-503020.html

If you know someone competent, that's a cheaper way to go.(y)
 
I have just brought this kit from Germany for under £48. Here is the link

http://www.autoteilemann.de/sencom-k...00-503020.html

If you know someone competent, that's a cheaper way to go.(y)
competetent ? JrKitching is the most competent member of this forum = ) I am sure he can fix anything on the Fiat 500.

Meanwhile my rear windscreen wiper is struggling at start up when it turns itself on starting the engine, not enough current for a few mins then it works normally again and I am delaying it as much as possible. I almost never use the wiper anyway as it hasn't rained in weeks here! Even the service, I will go 12k miles this time before changing oil plugs and filters, as in the end of summer. No need to change the filters when I will spend a lot of summer driving around the sand!

Other than that car is ok, wheels squeaking a bit from the wheelbearings I guess after 120,000 kms, hardly consuming any oil and coolant and the AC working just fine. Brakes squeaky but firm and no loss of brake fluid whatsoever.
On the last tank I managed my best tank ever, it seems I know how to drive the car more efficiently and it is properly run in by now.

So on we go for more km's!
 
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Trying to get more info on this problem. So having a go at reviving this thread.
I have posted this yesterday having already read through this thread. Suggestions after my posting suggest reading this thread. However it is like reading a detective story and finding out the last chapter is missing from the book.
Did the problem get solved, is there a fix for a 2010 model problem now in 2019.
Thanks everyone.
Here is my posting.

We have a 2010 1.4 Lounge. My wife has owned from new and she has just over 44600 kilometres on the clock.
A few days ago I noticed the top (3rd) brake light was not working. I thought this was a simple bulb change. I was very wrong.
I dismantled the fitting to find that there are five small 5v bulbs. All look in perfect order so I started my research on this site.
I now see that there appears a known problem with the wiring that threads through a rubber “gator” to the boot lid. Continued opening and closing over time of the boot leaves to damage to the wires (loom) contained in this casing.
Other threads have discussed this and possible fixes. However none of the threads contain the fix details or even if it has been repaired by a Fiat dealer.
Before I book the car in with the local Fiat garage I would like to know wether others have been through this recently and how much does it cost and any tips.
Thank you.
 
Ive had a quick trawl through older posts..and added links.

But I KNOW there are nasic HOT TO guides in the forum.

Considering hos busybthd section is.. there is precious little in thx way of GUIDE and FAQ info. :(

Maybe next time I am laid.up
I can get something collated.
 
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