Technical Lower wishbone arm replacement on 1.9JTD

[Retro Pedro]

I'm suspecting the nearside lower wishbone arm needs replacing on my 05 Doblo 1.9 JTD. Symptoms are that I get an occasional nearside tug/pull. I noticed that the lower rubber bush seemed to have alot of ware and movement so that's where my suspension lies.
Been looking on ebay and it appears that the complete arm with bushes are available for £32 odd per side. Looks like new ball joints are incorporated with the new arms - need to check with seller during normal office hours.
Apart from the normal problems associated with removing the old ball joints, does anybody know if there are any other pointers to watch out for when changing the arms? I was thinking that perhaps compressing the coil springs with clamps may help to take the tension off whilst removing the arms.
Last but not least, I was reading through the Stilo posts and it made mention to a upgraded 14mm bolt bush version arm as opposed to a 12mm bolt. Looking at the pictures, I'm convinced my Doblo is the 12mm bolt version.

 

[T14086]

Why are you going near the springs? Undo ball joint nut then separate balljoint from hub. Undo the the 2 main bolts connecting arms to chassis (there are 2 more smaller bolts from memory) and fit new arm and refit in reverse.

Arms come with balljoint.

 

[Retro Pedro]

Why are you going near the springs?

Thanks for reply T14086 - Just thought that there would be tension being applied from the springs onto the lower suspension and was thinking that the tension could be clamped so as not to hinder the removal. If this is not the case, then happy days

Is it necessary to normally remove the disc/hub to get at the ball joint or are the ball joints on Doblos more ball joint splitter friendly rather than being right bitches that require hitting from both sides with lump hammers?

 

[T14086]

Yeah I just hit with hammer until ball joint separates but a splitter is useful. I have access to a lift ramp which makes it so much easier especially when lining up the bolts which can be a bit tricky...leave them all slack until all the bolts are in then tighten.

 

[sludgeguts]

I did both arms last year. Axle stands holding the car up & trolley jack to aid with spring compression. released the balljoints with a good sharp tap from my trusty lump hammer (just as well as #2 son seems to have taken a liking to both my separators!).
The only real PITA I had was the anti-roll bar not wanting to play nicely.

 

[Retro Pedro]

Got there in the end - what a bar-steward lining up the front bush (long bolt).
Found the off side (drivers side) worst because the sump was inline with the tapping hammer requirements. Seemed the bush was working against me but in the end I used a spring compressor to pull the front bush side ways and a bottle jack to push upwards until the hole aligned correctly.
Then I found the bottom engine/gearbox mount was furbed. Ordered replacement and all back together. Now the bloody car won't start.
Another post I think regarding possible fuel starvation/priming.:bang:

 

[Melv101]

I recently changed a LHS bottom arm for a new one, and since then I sometimes get a single knock noise under braking. I Have removed the arm and refitted thinking I have done something wrong but all is ok and everything very tight. I can't feel any movement of RHS and LHS in anything including ball joints, track rod ends, bushes, top struts (changed RHS one as bearing was shot to pieces, sigh.... still not cause of noise) shockers ok and don't think its pads in the calipers as they are quite snug.
Anyone got any other ideas or experiences? Or shall I ignore it until it falls off.......


Anyone got any other ideas

Also the noise is not like a heatshield/exhaust noise, sounds like a dwarf sat on chassis hitting it wil the ball end of a hammer if that helps!

 

[Retro Pedro]

Have you had a look at your engine mounts Melv101?
Mine spasmatically snatched to the left and I'm thinking the broken vulcanised rubber in the bottom mount was a make factor.
Can't say as my motor as decided not to start since I done my wishbone/mount repairs.
Believe there's three engine mounts - bottom approx. middle of the car a foot back from the engine, one under the battery box and top on on drivers side.

 

[T14086]

Anti roll bar rubbers still in place? One of mine popped out after doing lower arms.

 

[george2]

Why are you going near the springs? Undo ball joint nut then separate balljoint from hub. Undo the the 2 main bolts connecting arms to chassis (there are 2 more smaller bolts from memory) and fit new arm and refit in reverse.

Arms come with balljoint.

I have a Ducato 2006 2.3 JTD box van and have to replace the wishbone arms but have found the new replacement arm has a smaller hole than the threaded tapered bolt on the ball joint attached to the wheel end. Was there a change to design ?

 

[varesecrazy]

I have a Ducato 2006 2.3 JTD box van and have to replace the wishbone arms but have found the new replacement arm has a smaller hole than the threaded tapered bolt on the ball joint attached to the wheel end. Was there a change to design ?

Hi,
did you use ePER to compare part No's.??
https://www.fiatforum.com/ducato/441656-my-first-problem.html
or ask in the Ducato section..,

Charlie