Technical Help! Panda 1.2 gearbox gone can I fit 1.1 ?

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Technical Help! Panda 1.2 gearbox gone can I fit 1.1 ?

It's quite a specialized bearing and expensive

It's glass reinforced plastic with a reinforcing ring on one side

I no idea why it was chosen, all the other bearing in the gearbox have standard metal cages

I had two gearboxes go past 200 000 miles without any problems

I bought a car with a blown input bearing, it died straight after clutch change, it's not the only one I know of that failed straight after a clutch change, I suspect low oil is the cause but no proof, the gearbox casing in the panda was modified to improve oil flow to the bearing over earlier cars
Thanks for that, very interesting about the bearing construction and improved oil flow.

Becky had a new clutch a few years ago and her bearing seems to have survival the experience - shouldn't have said that should I.
 
It's quite a specialized bearing and expensive

It's glass reinforced plastic with a reinforcing ring on one side

I no idea why it was chosen, all the other bearing in the gearbox have standard metal cages

I had two gearboxes go past 200 000 miles without any problems

I bought a car with a blown input bearing, it died straight after clutch change, it's not the only one I know of that failed straight after a clutch change, I suspect low oil is the cause but no proof, the gearbox casing in the panda was modified to improve oil flow to the bearing over earlier cars
Plastic components are getting good and no doubt they even use some in space, but, Im OLD and I dont rust them noo fangled things! If they work for 200K they cant be far wrong. I understand the DMF bearings on early TAs were of a similar construction and not suprisingly it wasnt the right application. I dont trust DMFs as far as I could carry one either. My car is within a whisker of 30K now, so a baby, and the clutch moos at me at times. Its clearly just a matter of time before I have to fork out for a whole new kit, slave cylinder, clutch release and any mechanism, DMF and full clutch. At anything like this milage I will be very brassed off, The last time I replaced a clutch was 1975. Most of my cars have done over 130K and the clutch and associated gubbins was all functional when they were moved on. Im still not sure what the cause of my noise is but I suspect rusting of the DMF bearing is involved. I wonder how brave I am.... Im thinking this will become more easy to diagnose when its regular, at present its one day in 45 then its quiet I wondering about trying to lubricate both the DMF and clutch release bearings with a long tube, do one and see what happens. Im aware of the dmf so try and be super smooth with gears and always match revs its not worked though. At least I ave time to build up a fighting fund to pay for the work.
 
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Thanks for that, very interesting about the bearing construction and improved oil flow.

Becky had a new clutch a few years ago and her bearing seems to have survival the experience - shouldn't have said that should I.
The curse of the weirwolf will now descend... I hope not!! I dont mind doing the release bearing with a clutch and even the release arm, but the intenal slave cylinder is design stupidity. I must bleed mine its long overdue.
 
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The curse of the weirwolf will ow descend... I hope not!! I dont mind doing the release bearing with a clutch and even the release arm, but the intenal slave cylinder is design stupidity. I must bleed mine its long overdue.
Concentric slave cylinders? an invention of the devil! AAAARGH! With dual mass flywheels close behind.
 
Plastic components are getting good nd no doubt they even use soe in space, but, Im OLD and I dont rust them noo fangled things! If tehy work for 200K they cant be far wrong. I understand the DMF bearings on early TAs were of a similar construction and not suprisingly it wasnt the right application. I dont tyrust DMFs as far as I could carry one either.
Some time ago I saw a bit of kit which was for testing dual mass flywheels for serviceability when replacing the clutch. I think it was one of these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/326329264667?_ul=GB&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338365712&toolid=20006&customid=CjwKCAjw6P3GBhBVEiwAJPjmLsjm1pamNa1YuS01sbtginz0q_dvNeQmrWh3bMv2bVnH3OPO5NsOuhoC3xQQAvD_BwE|0AAAAADANKJkzwMVd14uUTEkxnNdcSkD7S|null&gclid=CjwKCAjw6P3GBhBVEiwAJPjmLsjm1pamNa1YuS01sbtginz0q_dvNeQmrWh3bMv2bVnH3OPO5NsOuhoC3xQQAvD_BwE&gbraid=0AAAAADANKJkzwMVd14uUTEkxnNdcSkD7S&loc_physical_ms=9195801&adtype=pla

What I wonder is, alright it checks the wear at that moment but doesn't take into account things which could go wrong in the future. My thinking is if the flywheel has already seen out one clutch then it's probably unlikely it's going to last out another? and I certainly wouldn't want to be tearing the box out again in, say, 18 months just because the flywheel has now failed. No Siree Bob! A new flywheel every time for me. It's one reason why I've, so far, been able to buy a car with a solid flywheel.
 
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A new flywheel every time for me
I'd agree.

If your car has a DMF, and you're replacing the clutch, replace the flywheel irrespective of its apparent condition.

Unless you're doing the job yourself, the labour cost is going to be the biggest number, and additionally replacing the DMF isn't going to add much, if anything, to that.

And if you are doing the job yourself, unless you're a masochist, you don't want to be doing it again for a long time.
 
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