Technical Head gasket blown, balancing options, little money

[jackwhoo]

Thank you all so much again — did the procedure and seems to be going beautifully (no gurgling under the dash when I first hit the gas) and the temp gauge is looking how it should!

I’m going to try to change the oil and filter this weekend, and I’m going to reclean the VVT and see if I still get the p0016

How old is the oil and filter?

Which part of the vvt system are you proposing to clean ?

 

[Keepthe12alive]

How old is the oil and filter?

Which part of the vvt system are you proposing to clean ?

Not sure how old oil and filter are

Planning to just clean solenoid

 

[Keepthe12alive]

Unrelated, sorry —

How could I be sure to match the correct axel to my car?

This is a 2011 1.2 peteol,

And someone is selling a rear axel for a 2007 Panda

 

[koalar]

There's three axels
Disc brake 100hp very rare
Disc brake 1.2 and 1.3 rare
Drum brake the most common

 

[koalar]

If you weren't getting P0016 before the head gasket
And the solenoid isn't blocked

It's almost certainly a timing problem

However it's worth doing a phonic relearn as long as you can rev past 4.5K RPM when the engine is warm

 

[jrkitching]

And someone is selling a rear axel for a 2007 Panda

...which will almost certainly be well corroded and little better than useless.

Aftermarket beams are sufficiently cheap that there's no point messing about with rusty secondhand parts.

 

[Keepthe12alive]

If you weren't getting P0016 before the head gasket
And the solenoid isn't blocked

It's almost certainly a timing problem

However it's worth doing a phonic relearn as long as you can rev past 4.5K RPM when the engine is warm

I definitely think it’s bc it’s prolly a tooth off, but I know oil needs to be changed and the coolant and oil had mixed with the HG fail

In mean time, I might have come across a brand new oil sump for free, so I might be gearing up to replace that too

I am definitely going to need to prepare to correct the timing

 

[Keepthe12alive]

If you weren't getting P0016 before the head gasket
And the solenoid isn't blocked

It's almost certainly a timing problem

However it's worth doing a phonic relearn as long as you can rev past 4.5K RPM when the engine is warm

Just so I’m sure, how can I determine exactly how many teeth off it is when I look at it?

 

[Keepthe12alive]

Update:

Car making noises that scare me aroun 2500 rpms

Anyone know this sound?

 

[Keepthe12alive]

I’m really hoping it’s not valve slapping

 

[Keepthe12alive]

I’m changing oil asap (when the Scottish rain lets up)

 

[koalar]

I will look/listen to the video when I get home

It's noisy here,

 

[Keepthe12alive]

I’ve just changed the oil and I’m still getting the P0016 and idling rough, though idk if it would take a little while for the new oil to do its thing

 

[koalar]

No if the p0016 wasn't there before the head gasket

And the solenoid is clean

No amount of tinkering will correct the situation, and possibly turn a simple fix into a more complex on

It saying there is a mismatch between the camshaft and crankshaft

Pretty much guarantee the belt is off

 

[Keepthe12alive]

I’m just planning to take the covers off and redo timing this weekend

We knew it was off half to whole tooth, and with a new belt maybe it stretched ever slightly

Just gotta do the belt again

 

[MrMagoo]

Did you use the full set of timing tools applicable to that engine?

 

[Keepthe12alive]

Did you use the full set of timing tools applicable to that engine?

Yes, but it looked like we were a tooth off as we didn’t slacken the cam sprocket

 

[Keepthe12alive]

Weird update – the shop owner who’s going to work with me tomorrow is suggesting a different procedure:

- we leave the belt on
- lock crank Tdc with tool
- loosen the cam pulley while the belt is still on
- with the crank locked in place, put a spanner on the hex part of the cam rod and maneuver it until the cam is TDC with the tool
- then tighten the cam pulley back up

I’m not sure if this will work the way needed or not

 

[koalar]

Weird update – the shop owner who’s going to work with me tomorrow is suggesting a different procedure:

- we leave the belt on
- lock crank Tdc with tool
- loosen the cam pulley while the belt is still on
- with the crank locked in place, put a spanner on the hex part of the cam rod and maneuver it until the cam is TDC with the tool
- then tighten the cam pulley back up

I’m not sure if this will work the way needed or not

Yes

You still need to use the little tool

You can only turn the cam anti clockwise

When The crank is locked all the pistons are half way down so there's no chance of the valves hitting the pistons

 

[Keepthe12alive]

Yes

You still need to use the little tool

You can only turn the cam anti clockwise

When The crank is locked all the pistons are half way down so there's no chance of the valves hitting the pistons

Which little tool? This one?

Also, why can only turn counterclockwise?