Technical GP Ventilation System / Window Steaming Issue!

[SJB1985]

Then something is wrong with your heater box.

Could it be a heater core leak possibly? Does the air that enters the cabin smell of anti-freeze? or is it clean air?

P.S. I am sorry for going off topic with my light hearted piece of humor.

 

[Magic Johnson]

LOL just don't burp or fart inside the cabin and you will be grand!

Impossible RE farting. Always, ALWAYS when you need a fart approaching the car it never comes and as soon as you sit down, an unearthly trump screams from your anus, destroying and acidifying any pure air inside the cabin.

 

[Humour]

I assumed that leaving the fan speed dial on anything other than zero was allowing air from outside of the car to enter the cabin, hence the condensation

That one doesn't make sense to me, but I understand your point in view of the behaviour from my car also.

It doesn't make sense because, ignition off = no fan rotation, no matter of dial is 0 or 1. The dial itself does not control anything else but the fan, so assuming all else is equal, how can it have the effect it is having? Outside air will still be able to enter the cabin nudged by a woft of wind.....and I don't mean the type MJ is referring to

On the point of the AC drain, I wonder if the pipe is accessible from outside/under the car? If the drain is to the outside some of that pipe must protrude on the outside which would suggest its the best place to check for blockage, if it can be found?

Humour.

P.S. Thanks for all the responses.

 

[Humour]

That was mentioned as you requested the location of the outside air intake/recirc flap? I've not known them to be a source of water ingress, unless the scuttle panel drainage tubes are blocked (usually with leaves).

Danny boy, I followed your advice as it was logical to check if its has been a fault on some cars. The result is, I don't think I have a window seal leakage, which is good news.

The reason I asked for the location of the recirc. flap however has nothing to do with water ingress through that area. If you read my initial post correctly, I am suggesting that if the flap is in the "closed" position when it is supposed to be in the "open" position, then the effect is like having the recirculation on full time, therefore I asked for the location of said flap to check its position relative to what the recirculation button is telling me is the case.

Humour

 

[Magic Johnson]

I know some flaps that are in the closed position instead of the open position.

 

[jameshobiecat]

Interestingly, when I turn the AC off and the blower to 0 when the car is parked up for the night, the next morning there is no steaming of the windows. I don't know if it could be related but if the AC button and blower is left at 1 or 2, moisture builds upon the inside over night.

Humour.

I've always found that air con systems release moisture into the cabin when first switched off. Try switching the air con off several minutes before the end of your journey, this will give the moisture a chance to evaporate whilst there is still a flow of warm air. Personally; in winter I use the air con to clear the windows on start up but once I get warm air coming through I switch it off. Works for me.

Ps, has a split air con drain hose been ruled not? They are common on lots of cars and usually result in damp footwels.

 

[Humour]

Hi James,

no a split AC drain pipe has not been ruled out, yet.

I can say however that from observations and poking around in both front footwells, I have not detected any moisture/damp. With that said, I haven't been able to lift the hard skinned noise insulation for fear of damaging it, if anyone has any advice on how to lift that off in order to access the chassis floor, I'm all ears.

That seems consistent with the behaviour I have seen too James. If I switched the car off with the AC still blowing and leave the fan on 1 or 2, the next morning I need wipers on the inside of the windscreen. I stopped doing that now and so far (knocks on wood) its been dry.

MJ, poor you I can point you in the direction of a place where you can find open flaps.............for the right price.

Humour.

 

[TallTom]

I will also add, that a clean windscreen will not steam up nowhere near as much as a dirty one. So make sure the inside surface of the windscreen is nice and clean and see if that makes a difference.

 

[jameshobiecat]

I will also add, that a clean windscreen will not steam up nowhere near as much as a dirty one. So make sure the inside surface of the windscreen is nice and clean and see if that makes a difference.

Yes. And then never ever touch it again.

 

[Humour]

I will also add, that a clean windscreen will not steam up nowhere near as much as a dirty one. So make sure the inside surface of the windscreen is nice and clean and see if that makes a difference.

Good Advice! My windscreen was cleaned no less than 5 times since buying the car as it was filthy. I can categorically say its as CLEAN as it can be and I can see the micro scratches on the outside of the windscreen even at night.

Doesn't stop water droplets form though.

Hum

 

[Humour]

Update for those interested.

Whilst upgrading the scuttle drainage rubbers to the longer variants (see alternator cracking thread) I had a good view of the cabin air intake port. Its actually a BIG hole on the passenger side which allows fresh air to get into the cabin.

I tested this with the blower on and recirculation OFF then ON and can confirm that this is operating as it should. Fresh air is allowed to enter the cabin so that area is cleared as a possible culprit.

This now leads to the aircon being the culprit. I've been making sure that I have the aircon switched off at least 5 mins before I park up and the blower left in the zero position, in which case no condensation.

I then thought lest try the opposite and see if it confirms the behaviour. Drove back from work with AC on, switched the car off and left the blower in the zero position. In the morning I arrived to a misty windscreen on the inside. So obviously the drain plug needs checking and the 5 minute rule applies.

It's a shame I got to take half of the dash apart to get to the bugger.

Hum

 

[Andy Monty]

Try setting the air direction to the cabin (as in the 4x heater jets) and shut them all with the individual thumb wheels



Another good source of damp getting into the cabin is the pesky boot lid something i tend to address on mine by adding some form of membrane behind the boot lid trim probably involving duct tape :devil:

 

[digger58]

Any definitive answer to this, Mine is suffering the same problem, given that there was a little old man with a white beard rounding up animals two by two around here for the last couple of months I'm wondering is it just the incessant rain causing the problem, no wet carpet but there is a damp smell.

 

[kyle96]

Best advice is to bet some decent wind deflectors, preferably team heko's.
Since getting them I've had no problem with steam, rain doesn't enter the cabin when it, um, rains. And none of that annoying thumping wind sound. (When I use them)

For 30 odd quid they're one of the best additions to the car, also keeps the inside nice and fresh but not bitter cold

 

[Humour]

Best advice is to bet some decent wind deflectors, preferably team heko's.

Advise followed I have a set of HEKO's for my 4 door on their way.

I was thinking about getting them anyway, you just nudged me over the edge lol. Nevertheless I remain sceptical on how WD's can affect the misting up of the windows inside......

Humour