General GP 2007 (56) 1.4 petrol won't start anymore

[alexduni]

Hello everyone,


I've got a GP 2007 (56) 1.4 petrol and it won't start anymore.

It all started last year with the warning at the start 'Excessive radiator fluid temperature stop & turn engine off', anyway after searching on this forum I've decided to change the battery; all good until this year in January when it started all over again.
The battery was fully charged and the car was starting after couple of attempts (screeching noise from starter motor); sometimes it was starting straight away.
After a while, while driving around the engine was literally cutting off; luckily it 'bump started' itself.
Then I've changed the MAP sensor and the thermostat; no change whatsoever :bang::bang:; tried at least to get rid off the radiator warning.

The symptoms now are when trying to start the car:
-no noise coming from fuel pump
-immobiliser symbol on dash (car with lock)
-EBD failure (message on dash)
-ABS symbol on dash (ABS unavailable)
-Power steering symbol on dash (have power steering checked)
-the voltage stays 12.72v when turning the key
-the lights, radio, horn, wipers they all working
-obd2 reader can't connect to ECU

I've checked all the earthing points (using engine-bay-earthing-points thread), plus the one hidden under the air box; brush them all not as they needed.
Tried to start the car with spare key.
Next thing I've used jump leads to bypass the earth strap to the engine and between the engine and the chassis (using electrical-gremlin-thread).
Then measured the voltage from positive to different ground points; voltage was the same on all points; also all the fuses are fine.
Lastly I've removed the fusebox to have a closer look; no sign of any water..

Any other ideas ?

Thanks

 

[DGPunto]

What ODB2 reader and interface are you trying to use? Our GP's are sensitive to poorly made versions.

Would definitely be good to have the codes here

 

[varesecrazy]

Hello everyone,

I've got a GP 2007 (56) 1.4 petrol and it won't start anymore...

Any other ideas ?

Thanks

Hi

There can be issues connecting via OBD port

Getting the body computer read is potentially your best bet.. as it might need the U codes clearing that are keeping the Immobiliser system active

What is your history with the car?

No clutch changes.. alternator replacement.. or wet carpets??

It does sound like a wiring issue

: example here

https://www.fiatforum.com/punto-ii/486065-no-oil-light-but-immobiliser-light-stays-3.html?p=4588438

 

[torniojaws]

I had that exact issue this winter on an especially cold day. The car seemed "dead" with the immobiliser icon visible. No fuel pump or crank, even though just 10 minutes ago it was working fine.

I found online that you can "override" the immobiliser by "starting" the car and holding the key in "crank" (nothing happens of course) for 10 or 15 seconds. Then "turn off" the car, and now it should start normally. In my case, it did, and started immediately so it wasn't about the battery or fuel lines. The immobiliser was somehow preventing the car from even attempting to start.

 

[portland_bill]

The initial problem, of the engine thinking it was too hot, could point to a temperature sensor fault. That would prevent any cold start enrichment, leading to lots of cranking with no start, or maybe starting eventually. This might still be a problem, but will not lead to the others.

Immobiliser would normally allow cranking, but prevent the ignition from firing.

Lots of faults together point at the body computer, as this is where all the inputs feed to. There have been reports on here about water ingress to the cabin affecting the computer. First place to look is the chamber below the windscreen. This has two 'duckbills' that clog with debris and prevent rainwater from draining, eventually the chamber fills and spills into the car, often over the computer. (Hence varesecrazy asking about dampness inside) The duckbills are short rubber tubes, with flattened ends, that may need squeezing occasionally to dislodge rotting leaves, etc. (Nice bit of compost if you need some) One is above the alternator, and can drain onto it, causing alternator problems. There are longer ones available to fix this.

If the body computer is wet, it may need removing and either sitting in the airing cupboard for a few days, or immersing in dry rice for a similar time.

 

[chris3234]

I had that exact issue this winter on an especially cold day. The car seemed "dead" with the immobiliser icon visible. No fuel pump or crank, even though just 10 minutes ago it was working fine.

I found online that you can "override" the immobiliser by "starting" the car and holding the key in "crank" (nothing happens of course) for 10 or 15 seconds. Then "turn off" the car, and now it should start normally. In my case, it did, and started immediately so it wasn't about the battery or fuel lines. The immobiliser was somehow preventing the car from even attempting to start.

That is doubtful
No manufacturer would make a imboliser that easy to bypass or it would render the whole.thing pointless

 

[torniojaws]

Well, it worked for me. Not sure how though. But I tried starting the car several times, and it was like nothing was enabled - just the lights on the dashboard, but no sound anywhere.

There was the immobiliser icon (yellow car with a lock on top of it), like in this picture (not mine) to the bottom right of the check engine light, and the icon stayed lit after all other icons went away.

Then after the 10-15 second wait with the key in "cranking" position, that icon went away, and the car started normally after turning the key off and then crank position (normal start). Before that trick, I tried cranking it something like 6 - 7 times with no change (the same icon appeared every time).

 

[varesecrazy]

Interesting..

 

[alexduni]

Thank you all for your replies.
varesecrazy, I haven't changed clutch, alternator, and no wet carpets... The only issue regarding water I'd say was: last December after car sat a while when I was driving it around it kept saying the boot was open even though I was sure it was closed and the reverse beeper was gone at the same time.
DGPunto, just some cheap stuff; used to work in the past, actually just before I changed MAP sensor and thermostat;wanted to see what are the temperatures the ecu sees.
torniojaws, it's not working, I've just tried.

What I've also tried to find any broken wire or anything dodgy. I even tried to check if the voltage goes on to one of the Ecu connectors, on the pin 1 I get the battery voltage but on 16 just barely, then I've checked the continuity of the wire and I guess it looks fine.

 

[alexduni]

Found a bloody broken wire.
Guess who's GP it's working now

 

[varesecrazy]

Found a bloody broken wire.
Guess who's GP it's working now

Glad you found it...


Was there an obvious reason for a damaged wire ?

 

[alexduni]

Not really, I just seen a video and from it I've identified the broken wire, funny thing is it was the same wire as mine.

LE: I cannot post the link of the video, probably I need more posts.