Technical gear not avaliable check transmission

[oigle]

aww5490
It's an interesting thought.
The barttery in question is the engine start battery. This motorhome has a battery charger which when plugged into AC mains power charges up the 'House' and 'Engine' battery(ies).
I am charging up the engine battery now--its 14.4V--but hasn't finished the charge cycle.
Then we will see whether:
i) Flat battery caused transmission/glow plug/air bag problems
ii) Test 'House' batter charger not working
iii) Alternator/wiring issues

I did buy a small solar panel some years ago (about the size of 2 large dinner plates) from. an auto store and organised to put it on the dash and plug it into a cigarette lighter plug direct to the battery but I could never seem to get it to work properly as a backup when I was out bush and nowhere near power and my generator was out of fuel or not working.
I think it's time for less 'playing' and more attention to my systems management!

Check my flag mate. I'm in Oz too.
My MH - Avida - does NOT charge the start battery when the MH is plugged in to 240V power. Might be worth a check on yours. I installed a Ctek low amp charger inside the MH and connected it via a 240V switch inside the MH. Then, when MH connected to 240V, the Ctek charged the start battery. Works well.
Connecting a solar panel via the ciggy lighter would only work if the ciggy lighter wiring was changed to be directly connected to the start battery AT ALL TIMES, not just when ign turned on. Hope that helps.
Ian.

 

[GypzyJack]

Check my flag mate. I'm in Oz too.
My MH - Avida - does NOT charge the start battery when the MH is plugged in to 240V power. Might be worth a check on yours. I installed a Ctek low amp charger inside the MH and connected it via a 240V switch inside the MH. Then, when MH connected to 240V, the Ctek charged the start battery. Works well.
Connecting a solar panel via the ciggy lighter would only work if the ciggy lighter wiring was changed to be directly connected to the start battery AT ALL TIMES, not just when ign turned on. Hope that helps.
Ian.

G'day, Ian
I should have checked the flag! What part of Oz are you in?

Re the battery charger, I was told by the dealer that the battery charger did flow through to the start battery and had an isolator switch which prevented the start battery from draining back the other way, but I have never checked it.
I should check my House batteries now to see where their charge is coming from; the solar or the 240V or both. Perhaps I have a problem with the installed battery charger. The start battery is presently being charged by a Powertech Plus externally but just noting the digital display it seems stuck on 14.4V instead of proceeding to the "fully charged" mode. Might this indicate a constant power drain?

I also have a Ctek unit which has a motorcycle battery charging option for when the bike is parked up, and works really well.

Re the dedicated cig lighter connector, I had it installed direct to the start battery when I bought this unit but because the indicator light on the solar panel plug never came on I was dubious about whether it was working or not. Another thing to check since I have re-acquainted myself with a multimeter.

While I was parked up for 12 months the ants also got into my motorhome so it's been a bit of a disaster to come back to these dramas.

Anyway, thanks mate for you input. I appreciate it.
Cheers, Jack

 

[oigle]

G'day, Ian
I should have checked the flag! What part of Oz are you in?

Re the battery charger, I was told by the dealer that the battery charger did flow through to the start battery and had an isolator switch which prevented the start battery from draining back the other way, but I have never checked it.
I should check my House batteries now to see where their charge is coming from; the solar or the 240V or both. Perhaps I have a problem with the installed battery charger. The start battery is presently being charged by a Powertech Plus externally but just noting the digital display it seems stuck on 14.4V instead of proceeding to the "fully charged" mode. Might this indicate a constant power drain?

I also have a Ctek unit which has a motorcycle battery charging option for when the bike is parked up, and works really well.

Re the dedicated cig lighter connector, I had it installed direct to the start battery when I bought this unit but because the indicator light on the solar panel plug never came on I was dubious about whether it was working or not. Another thing to check since I have re-acquainted myself with a multimeter.

While I was parked up for 12 months the ants also got into my motorhome so it's been a bit of a disaster to come back to these dramas.

Anyway, thanks mate for you input. I appreciate it.
Cheers, Jack

Yep, worth checking all aspects of the charging system to see if they are working properly. 14.4V is pretty high. What does it drop to when disconnected? Need to leave it rest for an hour or so for the surface charge to dissipate or turn the lights on for 5 minutes before checking voltage.
Does your ciggy lighter show volts with ign off? If so, all good apart from any voltage discrepancy. Should be same as battery that it is connected to.
Ants - grrr. So hard to get rid of properly. Never leave your power lead or any drain hose connected and touching ground unless camping and even then, check it daily for the little buggers. Immediate pathway. Insect bomb the place and shut it up for 24 hours helps.
I'm in Redcliffe Qld., by the way. Just north of Brisbane. You?
You should fill in your profile details.

Ian.

 

[GypzyJack]

Yep, worth checking all aspects of the charging system to see if they are working properly. 14.4V is pretty high. What does it drop to when disconnected? Need to leave it rest for an hour or so for the surface charge to dissipate or turn the lights on for 5 minutes before checking voltage.
Does your ciggy lighter show volts with ign off? If so, all good apart from any voltage discrepancy. Should be same as battery that it is connected to.
Ants - grrr. So hard to get rid of properly. Never leave your power lead or any drain hose connected and touching ground unless camping and even then, check it daily for the little buggers. Immediate pathway. Insect bomb the place and shut it up for 24 hours helps.
I'm in Redcliffe Qld., by the way. Just north of Brisbane. You?
You should fill in your profile details.

Ian.

Ian, I just disconnected the charger, which was still trying to input voltage at 14.4V, and tested the cig lighter which read 12.01V; then tested the battery which read 12.01V.
On the face of it, it looks like I have a problem with the battery.
Just tried to start the ignition and got a slight wind-over followed by clicking. Insufficient charge.

So it would seem that regardless of whether the in-house battery charger is working or not, I have a battery problem. Last Saturday, I drove from Burpengary to Staplyton, stopping a number of times on the way with no starting issues apart from the "gear not available check transmission" which held me up for 10 minutes until another attempt yielded a clear start.
However, I have felt that the battery had been "lazy" on the few occasions that I had started the motor in the last few weeks while I was getting ready to go, but put that down to not enough hours charging under the alternator though in the back of my mind was the spectre of the in-house battery charger not charging. That is yet to be determined.

According to the solar display I have added 19.1 volts today and the batteries are holding a charge of 13.5V.

I sold up at East Banora, just across the NSW border at Tweed Heads in 2012 and have been looking for a place to settle down n my travels, bt haven't been able to find the 'ideal' place. Prior to Banora we had a horse property at Luscombe, between Beenleigh and Tamborine Village. I have been wandering ever since, doing the wanderlust/adventure thing which is why I am now looking at boats.

 

[GypzyJack]

Now that I think about it, I seem to recall that connecting the battery charger to the start battery was a requirement of purchase when I brought the rig in 2012. I had a similar setup on my gooseneck horse trailer to the F350 only the in that case it charged the auxillary battery which managed the breakaway system and the 'house' in the gooseneck accommodation, and isolated the start battery from any drain from the auxiliary.

Anyway, I have cleared the way to get at the electrics cupboard so we'll see what transpires. The biggest problem I have these days is remembering what I seemed to know so damn well in yesteryear. If I am not doing it all the time I forget!

 

[GypzyJack]

Hi, zlati
I can't help you, but one of these guys might be able to if and when they visit the site again.

Cheers

 

[GypzyJack]

Yep, worth checking all aspects of the charging system to see if they are working properly. 14.4V is pretty high. What does it drop to when disconnected? Need to leave it rest for an hour or so for the surface charge to dissipate or turn the lights on for 5 minutes before checking voltage.
Does your ciggy lighter show volts with ign off? If so, all good apart from any voltage discrepancy. Should be same as battery that it is connected to.
Ants - grrr. So hard to get rid of properly. Never leave your power lead or any drain hose connected and touching ground unless camping and even then, check it daily for the little buggers. Immediate pathway. Insect bomb the place and shut it up for 24 hours helps.
I'm in Redcliffe Qld., by the way. Just north of Brisbane. You?
You should fill in your profile details.

Ian.

A bit of an update, Ian

I checked the battery about 30 mins ago and it read 11.2V, then turned on the lights for 5 mins and it read 10.25V, so my 14.4V recharge has evaporated.
I am still trying to isolate the battery charger lead from the rear electrical cupboard to the front start battery.
Cheers, Jack

 

[zlatko83]

Hi, zlati
I can't help you, but one of these guys might be able to if and when they visit the site again.

Cheers

Thank you anyway
I hope, we solve the problem.
I suspect mechanical problem with clutch (happened, clutch was not switch off full, only partially, then very loud connect in 1st gear, after nothing more) ??
Only with contact key, I can switch in 1st gear and R, with started engine stay only in N, not possible to switch in 1st or R
But only 50.000km

 

[oigle]

A bit of an update, Ian

I checked the battery about 30 mins ago and it read 11.2V, then turned on the lights for 5 mins and it read 10.25V, so my 14.4V recharge has evaporated.
I am still trying to isolate the battery charger lead from the rear electrical cupboard to the front start battery.
Cheers, Jack

Either you have a dud battery or the charging system for the start battery is crook. If the 14.4 was measured on the start battery when charging, I would suggest the battery is duff. That can cause all sorts of electronic problems elsewhere so get it fixed asap.
As I said previously, Fiat replaced my battery under warranty. Go back to them. There is a dealer in Redcliffe if you are close but you will have to ask them what to do if you can't drive there. Knowing Fiat, if you don't produce the vehicle for them to diagnose, they won't play ball. Maybe they will suggest a suitable tow truck....

 

[GypzyJack]

Hi, Ian

This MH is almost 8 years old new and I have replaced the start battery in it about 4 years ago so I doubt that Fiat would come to the party. I originally had a new Fiat Van produced by Horizon at Ballina in NSW and it had an authorised Fiat tow bar which turned out to be only bolted to the...now I forget what the technical name is but it is the light sheet steel sheet framing which covers the rear of a commercial van below the rear doors...to which the back step is attached, and also to which the approved Fiat owe bar attaches with any two shot bolts into the sub-frame chassis rail...and of course on Parramatta Road in Sydney which consists of 2 metre long carriageway wide concrete sections out if alignment after at least 60 years that I can remember, half the bolts ripped out, and Fiat didn't want anything to do with it! Thankfully, Horizon offered $1,500 which I accepted and traded it in on a Winnebago Eyre to which there towbar was bolted to the chassis rails.

Suffice to say that I have not found Fiat very helpful. In that matter I could have taken Fiat to court as I had arranged an engineer's report from a towbar specialist engineer who Winnebago used to get their towbars approved, but who wants to hang around Sydney feeding money to a solicitor for 5 years.

I don't know whether you know this but the only Fiat Commercial workshop in Brisbane is East Coast Commercial at Acacia Ridge. All other Fiat dealers are cars only. It looks like I am up for a new battery all the same.

Thanks for your comments, Ian. I hope that a new battery might resolve the other fault codes which have appeared; currently, there is the transmission, power steering, and air bags.

Cheers, Jack

 

[oigle]

Hi, Ian

This MH is almost 8 years old new and I have replaced the start battery in it about 4 years ago so I doubt that Fiat would come to the party. I originally had a new Fiat Van produced by Horizon at Ballina in NSW and it had an authorised Fiat tow bar which turned out to be only bolted to the...now I forget what the technical name is but it is the light sheet steel sheet framing which covers the rear of a commercial van below the rear doors...to which the back step is attached, and also to which the approved Fiat owe bar attaches with any two shot bolts into the sub-frame chassis rail...and of course on Parramatta Road in Sydney which consists of 2 metre long carriageway wide concrete sections out if alignment after at least 60 years that I can remember, half the bolts ripped out, and Fiat didn't want anything to do with it! Thankfully, Horizon offered $1,500 which I accepted and traded it in on a Winnebago Eyre to which there towbar was bolted to the chassis rails.

Suffice to say that I have not found Fiat very helpful. In that matter I could have taken Fiat to court as I had arranged an engineer's report from a towbar specialist engineer who Winnebago used to get their towbars approved, but who wants to hang around Sydney feeding money to a solicitor for 5 years.

I don't know whether you know this but the only Fiat Commercial workshop in Brisbane is East Coast Commercial at Acacia Ridge. All other Fiat dealers are cars only. It looks like I am up for a new battery all the same.

Thanks for your comments, Ian. I hope that a new battery might resolve the other fault codes which have appeared; currently, there is the transmission, power steering, and air bags.

Cheers, Jack

Hey Jack.
Post number 10 seemed to indicate you had a 2017 motorhome so I assumed it was still in warranty. My mistake. Those damn batteries are VERY expensive too.
Fiat in Redcliffe have had no qualms doing warranty servicing on my MH - similar to yours. I too have an Eyre model.
Yes, Fiat are known to be reluctant to help but the local dealer here has bent over backwards most times for me.
You will need to have all the fault codes erased to see if the new battery fixes things. They won't just go away.
I bought a scanner to enable me to diagnose and delete fault codes. Reckoned it was cheaper in the long run. Only $85 for a basic scanner.
Did answer your email by the way.

Ian.

 

[GypzyJack]

Hey Jack.
Post number 10 seemed to indicate you had a 2017 motorhome so I assumed it was still in warranty. My mistake. Those damn batteries are VERY expensive too.
Fiat in Redcliffe have had no qualms doing warranty servicing on my MH - similar to yours. I too have an Eyre model.
Yes, Fiat are known to be reluctant to help but the local dealer here has bent over backwards most times for me.
You will need to have all the fault codes erased to see if the new battery fixes things. They won't just go away.
I bought a scanner to enable me to diagnose and delete fault codes. Reckoned it was cheaper in the long run. Only $85 for a basic scanner.
Did answer your email by the way.

Ian.

Hi, Ian
Thanks for the reply. Maybe the "2017" was a thick-fingered typo on my part.

Re the Fault Code Reader, I tried to buy one on Saturday as I was leaving Burpengary and the Spare Parts store where I had looked at one earlier in the week shut at midday, or so I found out, and I got there at 1.15pm. It was the other day that I discovered my flat battery when I was about to go into Beenleigh to buy one from Repco.

Re your Eyre, have you had any issues wth the forward hatch in the cab section leaking water? While I was away, the sealant around it dried and cracked and caused water to leak into the cab and onto the dash, and water appearing in the passenger side hatch in between the doors.

Cheers, Jack

 

[oigle]

Hi, Ian
Thanks for the reply. Maybe the "2017" was a thick-fingered typo on my part.

Re the Fault Code Reader, I tried to buy one on Saturday as I was leaving Burpengary and the Spare Parts store where I had looked at one earlier in the week shut at midday, or so I found out, and I got there at 1.15pm. It was the other day that I discovered my flat battery when I was about to go into Beenleigh to buy one from Repco.

Re your Eyre, have you had any issues wth the forward hatch in the cab section leaking water? While I was away, the sealant around it dried and cracked and caused water to leak into the cab and onto the dash, and water appearing in the passenger side hatch in between the doors.

Cheers, Jack

No leaks Jack so far but mine is younger - 2013 production, and is kept out of sun when home.
I bought my code reader on the 'net some time back on a recommendation from a mechanic. Seems to be good value compared to some. I can get you details if you want.

Ian.

 

[GypzyJack]

No leaks Jack so far but mine is younger - 2013 production, and is kept out of sun when home.
I bought my code reader on the 'net some time back on a recommendation from a mechanic. Seems to be good value compared to some. I can get you details if you want.

Ian.

Yeah, that would be great, Ian.
Better to get one tried and proven, and there's little point n buying something high-end costly that is for commercial use.

Re the Eyre, Ok so yours is a year younger than mine but been shedded. Well, just keep in mind that hatch has a reputation for leaking. After getting uo close to fix it, I found that it was relatively fragile and that driving with it partly open was not a good idea. The leaks do not always appear in the cab but spill down in the sub-frame beside the side house door.
Also the very back join, which is exposed frontwards, can leak down into your cupboards beside the bed.
The advice given to me was to recaulk the window & top hatches, doors, and the two main house section joins every 2-3 years.

Jack

 

[oigle]

Yeah, that would be great, Ian.
Better to get one tried and proven, and there's little point n buying something high-end costly that is for commercial use.

Re the Eyre, Ok so yours is a year younger than mine but been shedded. Well, just keep in mind that hatch has a reputation for leaking. After getting uo close to fix it, I found that it was relatively fragile and that driving with it partly open was not a good idea. The leaks do not always appear in the cab but spill down in the sub-frame beside the side house door.
Also the very back join, which is exposed frontwards, can leak down into your cupboards beside the bed.
The advice given to me was to recaulk the window & top hatches, doors, and the two main house section joins every 2-3 years.

Jack

Here is a piccy of it. https://photos.google.com/search/_tra_/photo/AF1QipP8lcgQBsqZRRQtA3EV8dA7qYjmoOj8Iq5y5mxO
Hope that works. This forum is a bit clunky when it comes to inserting piccys.
It is an Autel Autolink AL519. Can scan and delete faults and quite a lot of more techie stuff.
Here is an ebay link to one. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Autel-A...=1226362839276a231a32180d42e1b875a9ff4b855710
I'll be keeping an eye on the hatch area sealing. Really, one should reseal the entire external unit every 10 years. Probably more often if constantly outdoors.

Bloody hell. All that **** worked......
Cheers
Ian.

 

[zlatko83]

Thank you anyway
I hope, we solve the problem.
I suspect mechanical problem with clutch (happened, clutch was not switch off full, only partially, then very loud connect in 1st gear, after nothing more) ??
Only with contact key, I can switch in 1st gear and R, with started engine stay only in N, not possible to switch in 1st or R
But only 50.000km

No idea?

 

[zlatko83]

Hello!
I have motorhome with 2.3 Multijet 150PS and conformatic gearbox.
Yesterday there is warring "Gear unavaliable" and stay in gear N, not possible to put in 1 or R.
After I stop engine and start again, now is possible to get in 1st and R, but very loud, like the clutch was not disconnect full (only a little) and veichle start to move (on idle RPM). When I activete brake, veichle stop and engine work normaly. When I take brake off, veichle move slowly again. After I stop engine and start again. "Gear unavaliable", there is not possible to get in 1st or R, only N.
I was disconnect battery, but no effect.

I was check next:
-I hear the hydraulic pump (electromotor), when I open driver door or get a contact with start key
-if I have start key in contact position, the gearbox switch between 1/N/R (it was indicate on display and I hear too)
-when I start engine, the gearbox switch in N and on display is "Gear unavaliable", not possible to switch in 1 or R

I think, problem somewhere with clutch system, but where?
Have you any idea?

Regards, Zlati

No idea?

 

[oigle]

Haven't heard anymore from you Jack. Have you got it sorted?

Ian.

 

[varesecrazy]

Royster, Im in Mackay, I have a 2015 Fiat based Motorhome, its only got 15,000ks on it, I replaced the battery on this becuse I had it in storage and not started for 6 mths, after this I now get gear Unavailable, Dealer wants $9K to replace a pump
Did your pump change ever fix the problem

Older posts..

royster12


Check posts by zlatko83

Had some success

 

[johnbogstad]

hello, On my X250 3.0 I was riding and it just stopped shifting on a roundabout. I had to push the car to the side of the road with help from the drive behind me. After I turned off the contact and waited for a while it just started working. But the next day. Same problem. After studying all the Fiat papers available on the gearbox I found the relay that caused the trouble. It's the relay that turns on the hydraulic pump when you open the drivers side door. You will hear the pump for two or three seconds and it stops when the system is under pressure. In my case the pump kept running slowly. After searching through the schema I changed the 12V 60A relay and now everything is fine.

I have a Fiat 500L EZ and have this problem. I cannot find a 12V 60A relay, only 2 50A relays and they are fine