Technical Fiat panda 1.2 Engine Ventilation Hose

[koalar]

Still sounds like it's only running on two cylinders

Confirm its still cylinder 1 and 2, by starting the car with each plug disconnect and see which ones make it worse

Originally 1and 2 made little difference, but 3 and 4 made a lot


If this is still the case, 3 and 4 are running fine, no amount of changing sensor throttle bodies and so on will make any difference, all 4 cylinders would be acting the same

Ignition leads, injectors, inlet manifold, head gasket exhaust, plugs would be about the only things that can effect two cylinders only

Seeing it happened straight after an overheat, the odds are inlet manifold or head gasket

The car was running fine before the overheat, the leads must have been in the correct order. There's no need change the order

Take the 4 new plugs out keep them in the correct order and take a nice closeup of the electrode end

You say you have bubbles entering the radiator, is this a steady stream of bubbles or an occasional one

 

[atakan123123]

I removed the newly installed spark plugs to perform a cylinder pressure test. We applied approximately 3 bar pressure to each cylinder with the compressor and no air leakage was observed.

When I removed the spark plugs, I noticed that two of them were more burnt and dirty than the other two. But I don't remember which one right now.

I don't know if I mentioned it before, the cam sensor also gives an error code. Sometimes.


We checked the timing belt adjustment. The timing seems correct on the flywheel and gears.

There are parts I don't understand about the map sensor. Even if I don't install the sensor, the vehicle shows pressure values. In each case, he shares some values. I wonder if he takes the estimate as a reference?

Even though I changed the map sensor, it still gives map error. It also gives a camshaft sensor error.



Because he saw problems with the cam sensor and the map sensor. Could he be acting with estimated values?

There are no bubbles in the radiator.
Only available on return from expansion tank. I was wrong. There are no bubbles in the water.

My only problem is that the car runs more efficiently when cold. The fainting increases when the automatic choke is turned off and it returns to its normal tempo.

A new thought; The vehicle runs more efficiently when cold. When auto choke is turned off the stun increases and may stop.

 

[koalar]

engine Off @ 100 kPa

and under 40 kPa at idle

Green RPM
Red inlet pressure

Cold start

Idle and throttle blip

Idle and several throttle blips

Evap and Map errors will also appear if the values aren't as ecpected, not just a faulty sensor, leaking, backfire and so on


What happens if you grab the back of the inlet manifold and push and pull it up and down while the car's idling

 

[atakan123123]

line 1 atmospheric
2nd line suction.


I don't understand, this map writes these values whether it is connected or not. When I give gas it drops below 400.

In fact, their values are healthy.

However, it can receive these values even when the sensor is not connected.

 

[atakan123123]

I act in a complex order. Now I'm waiting for the Cam sensor.
I removed the ecu. There is not the slightest wear or malfunction. It looked like it left the factory yesterday. I examined it not only visually but also under a microscope. At least one more thing has been erased from my mind.

We will be doing cam sensor testing and removing the cylinder gasket over the weekend. Meanwhile, there was a defect in the V-belt. I ordered it too. I think it has the factory's original first belt.

With this excuse, I avoided being stranded on the road because of the V-belt.

 

[atakan123123]

Yes friends. After searching a lot of ridiculous places. All I had to do was do the job alone, using my head.

Without the interference of external factors from the people around me. I had a day where I was not disturbed by the phone. I looked at all the main electrical diagrams and common feeds. I followed the cables. Finally I found the problem.

Since both the map and eccentric sensors were not working, I suspected there was a common clue. But plus or minus can be common. It was a very strange possibility that the signal end was common.

The cable going to the brain in the socket is broken. The eccentric and the map shared the same signal line.


After plugging in the cable, the vehicle turned off the malfunction lights. It is working normally now.

I learned a lot about my car thanks to this breakdown. I updated and edited many places while trying to find the error.

It made me aware of the damaged alternator belt.

I also spent around $500. And the fault was just a wiring error.

While trying to find the fault, the water pipe burst and not being able to connect to the ecu led me to the wrong places.

As a result, I am happy. Whenever I want to maintain my car, some plastic parts and gaskets remain in my hand due to old age and cause me a lot of effort. I don't plan on doing any maintenance for a while.


I should enjoy it a bit.