Technical  Failed MOT

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Technical  Failed MOT

I did the following;

1) Jack up both sides of the car
2) Removed the offside wheel
3) Tried to remove drum but it wouldn't budge
4) Slacked off the handbrake nut inside the car
5) Removed drum
6) Took pictures and video
7) Left everything in place
8) Came and posted here

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The handbrake cable does appear to be resting in the right place, but that may be because the drum wasn't coming off without slackening the cable inside the cabin. I can't see anything out of place in the mechanism.

The wheel and drum are still on the other side, what i did notice is that the wheel turned much more easily on the "good side" than the "bad side".

I'm going to go and get the other wheel and drum off now, take more pictures then stop to post them and assess.
 
Pic shows lever on shoe correctly against is stop.
Grossly over tightened cable most likely responsible for right side problems.
Do check self adjuster working.
Strongly suggest replace cable.



Left side excessive cable movement - self adjuster likely problem.
 
So now i've had a problem, the drum guide bolts on the left side won't come off...i've got the surface rust off and added penetrant but they're rounding off, the additonal problem is i can't get much purchase on them because the handbrake is off and the drum just spins.

What do you guys suggest?

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So now i've had a problem, the drum guide bolts on the left side won't come off...i've got the surface rust off and added penetrant but they're rounding off, the additonal problem is i can't get much purchase on them because the handbrake is off and the drum just spins.

What do you guys suggest?

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Correct size trx bit. Fit two wheel bolts and use lever to hold.
If doesnt work drill heads off, small screws just to stop drum falling off when wheel removed-which highly unlikely to happen
 
2 other holes threaded m8 , use any old m8 bolt to help pull drum off hub if needed.
 
Righto, i'm going to give the penetrant a bit longer.

I'll go get some parking brake cables later today.

If you have trx bit put it in screw and smack it with hammer a few times prior to turning.
 
Not saying this occuring butTrx bits often one size feels correct but next size up fits better
 
Crow bar no as you would distort back plate and be in for bigger job.
You dont have much choice as you have to get in there.
Hit drum with block of wood as tighten m8 screws
 
You need to replace the wheel hub cover, looks like it's messed up
True but will not affect his current MOT issue.
Re the Torx or what ever retaining screws I have often had found them to be damaged and in general a good centre punch at the edge of the screw can be used to tap the screw around to undo it if the correct tool doesn't work.
Re the self adjusters I suggest you have a good look at them so you fullly understand how they actuate before attempting to manually adjust them.
As has been mentioned handbrake cables, a good idea to replace. Once you have them fitted, but slack I suggest you manually if possible adjust the brake shoes and clean off any dust etc. so that the drum will just slide over them, then give drum a light tap to square it up , the drum should still spin easily, press the brake pedal several times to square up everything and if shoes have correctly been adjusted brake pedal should be firm but drums still able to spin when foot off pedal.
Caution do not over adjust them and bang the drums back on or it will be seized and very hard to remove the brake drums!
After all that only then adjust the handbrake cable, I try to aim it to lock the back wheels enough to tighten the wheel nuts/bolts without the wheel turning on about three clicks, but it must be totally free when handbrake off, also the braking effort must come on equally on either rear wheel as you raise the handbrake lever one, two or three clicks indicating the shoes are correctly self adjusted in the brake drum. If entirely happy only then road test using foot and hand brake and on return check no wheels are unduly hot indicating a brake binding and ideally jack up and recheck by spinning the wheels as before on handbrake application. You may be able to adjust a fraction more then, but don't get too keen.;)
Re the grease caps they are usually available at motor factors or online, also unlike the old days with adjustable hub bearings and lots of grease they are sealed so unlikely to be contaminated by a damaged grease cap, although good practice to replace if damaged.:)
 
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Check shoes same brand / type both sides
Check pistons move freely , gently push in with screw driver one piston at a time only a few mm
Brush dust away shoes , back plate
using clean paint brush
File inner lip caused by wear off drums, dont switch drums side to side

I previously wrote looks like self adjuster lh not working-that prob wrong as drum tight to remove, i was fooled by grossly tighten cable

Check both self adjusters working-sounds like rh drum too easy too remove
 
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