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Technical  Failed MOT

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Technical  Failed MOT

AnthonyH said:
The new droplink came yesterday so when it stopped raining today i decided to get that on. However getting the old one off was quite a fight and then i cross threaded the new one, so it would neither fully tighten nor come off. I'll have to get an angle grinder on it tomorrow, and buy another one 🤕 I also managed to kill a droplink on my 500X a few months ago by cross threading it.

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The bottom nut did go on properly without issue. The only difference i can think of between the top and bottom is that i used an impact gun on the top and hand tightened the bottom (because i didn't have access for an impact gun). And i put copper grease on the threads, that is OK isn't it?

So my question is...how do i not cross thread droplinks when tightening them?

On a more successful note i managed to clean the other headlamp! :)
Click to expand...
A bit of oil or grease on the threads and start them by hand until they stop at the Nylock bit that self locks them from undoing, then if you must use impact gun a quick wizz shouldn't damage anything.
I notice the paint is off the link also so I assume a bit of force was used to encourage the thread into the hole in suspension strut. It is better to put a bar against the anti roll bar to help line it up, another thing is have both sides of car supported equally so the antiroll bar is not straining.
I assume the dust cover clip was coming off as you fought with the nut.
Try not to rush, you are not being paid by the hour, remember it is all done with "love and kindness" and not the "old mechanics toolbox containg a hammer, screwdriver and french letter" as in if you can't fix it f*ck it.;););)
 
AnthonyH said:
how do i not cross thread droplinks when tightening them?
Click to expand...
Golden rule I was taught was always start nuts and bolts by hand if possible
Only when you're happy the thread is properly seated put a tool on them

Other golden rule is don't have exciting looking parcels arrive on the other half's birthday only for it to turn out to be car or bike bits. For some reason they don't like it
 
rmjbn1 said:
Golden rule I was taught was always start nuts and bolts by hand if possible
Only when you're happy the thread is properly seated put a tool on them

Other golden rule is don't have exciting looking parcels arrive on the other half's birthday only for it to turn out to be car or bike bits. For some reason they don't like it
Click to expand...
The gift wrapping must have been a disappointment.;););)
 
bugsymike said:
A bit of oil or grease on the threads and start them by hand until they stop at the Nylock bit that self locks them from undoing, then if you must use impact gun a quick wizz shouldn't damage anything.
I notice the paint is off the link also so I assume a bit of force was used to encourage the thread into the hole in suspension strut. It is better to put a bar against the anti roll bar to help line it up, another thing is have both sides of car supported equally so the antiroll bar is not straining.
I assume the dust cover clip was coming off as you fought with the nut.
Try not to rush, you are not being paid by the hour, remember it is all done with "love and kindness" and not the "old mechanics toolbox containg a hammer, screwdriver and french letter" as in if you can't fix it f*ck it.;););)
Click to expand...

I watched a video by Autodoc and they used an impact gun on the top nut, they also loosen all nuts before they do their videos so while they're illustrative they're not realistic, no more impact guns then! I'm glad the grease is ok because it can be quite a wrestle with the nyloc.

I had a jack under the control arm to get the holes more or less lined up, the bolts weren't straining to go through the hole. I think the jack serves a similar purpose to having a bar against the anti roll, or would your suggestion be better? Did having the jack there negate the need to have both wheels off the ground?

rmjbn1 said:
Golden rule I was taught was always start nuts and bolts by hand if possible
Only when you're happy the thread is properly seated put a tool on them

Other golden rule is don't have exciting looking parcels arrive on the other half's birthday only for it to turn out to be car or bike bits. For some reason they don't like it
Click to expand...

Her exciting present which isn't a present arrives on Monday, she's been wanting a new shed to pile things into for years lol. That'll occupy her far more than the assorted presents she was given :)
 
Talking of gift wrapping, i used her "special birthday paper", she didn't mind at all, she was happy for me to use it. She unwrapped her presents from me very carefully, removing the sticky tape and folding the paper up afterwards - so it can be used again!

I didn't remove the wrapping from the items i bought her off Amazon. I wrapped the Amazon paper in gift wrapping, she mentioned this, but didn't mind...:)
 
rmjbn1 said:
Belated birthday wishes to Mrs H
Who suffers from FIAT ownership more than most of us
Click to expand...

The garage i used for the MOT quoted around £200 to change the droplink and to clean the rear drum brakes for supposed parking brake sticking, they said i'd have to clean the headlamps myself. Paying £200 is beginning to look a good deal for me, but probably not for her :)
 
AnthonyH said:
I watched a video by Autodoc and they used an impact gun on the top nut, they also loosen all nuts before they do their videos so while they're illustrative they're not realistic, no more impact guns then! I'm glad the grease is ok because it can be quite a wrestle with the nyloc.

I had a jack under the control arm to get the holes more or less lined up, the bolts weren't straining to go through the hole. I think the jack serves a similar purpose to having a bar against the anti roll, or would your suggestion be better? Did having the jack there negate the need to have both wheels off the ground?



Her exciting present which isn't a present arrives on Monday, she's been wanting a new shed to pile things into for years lol. That'll occupy her far more than the assorted presents she was given :)
Click to expand...
OK to undo with impact gun and a little oil so threads not torn, but always start the threads by hand when tightening.
It may be a case of practice re using a jack or bar, but if both wheels equally off the level ground then the chances are the rod will slide through the hole easily. Remember the job of the anti roll bar and it's links is to transmit load from one side of car to other to aid cornering so quite a lot of effort to load the bar may be needed to align if car sat unevenly.
Tricky with presents for wives, I seem to recall a wife (now ex) seemed to hide her pleasure well when I showed her a present of a vintage 1947 lorry I had bought in her name, so it may be the same with a shed, especially if it ends up full of car parts.;););)
 
bugsymike said:
Remember the job of the anti roll bar and it's links is to transmit load from one side of car to other to aid cornering so quite a lot of effort to load the bar may be needed to align if car sat unevenly.
Click to expand...

I'll give this a go, might make life a lot easier. (y)

bugsymike said:
Tricky with presents for wives, I seem to recall a wife (now ex) seemed to hide her pleasure well when I showed her a present of a vintage 1947 lorry I had bought in her name, so it may be the same with a shed, especially if it ends up full of car parts.;););)
Click to expand...

i've been promised a part of the shed for tools, so no problem if it has some tool stoarage. I imagine she'll fill it really quickly though and tools might not make it in there :D
 
AnthonyH said:
've been promised a part of the shed for tools, so no problem if it has some tool stoarage. I imagine she'll fill it really quickly though and tools might not make it in there :D
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Being mentioned in here, I propose this: organize an yearly 'MOT inspection' of the shed and 'advice' getting rid of stuff to make room for yours! 🤣😂
 
Mike1alike said:
I think not using the impact gun should work.
Click to expand...
As a retired aircraft engineer, we were always taught to finger tight all nuts and bolts, because you can 'feel' if the threads are correctly lined up as the nut should be easy to put on the bolt, with little resistance. If there is any resistance when finger fitting, remove and start again, to stop the cross threading.
impact guns just apply the power with no 'feedback ' and usually too fast to stop any cross threading. Bit of copper grease does no harm.
Slow and steady, should be the motto here. We were always taught to use spanners/sockets, and then finally tighten with a torque wrench. Impact wrenches were only used for undoing anything that was stuck. (one inspector called them 'tools of the devil' because it was so easy to over tighten or cross thread bolts/nuts with them, as there wasn't any user 'feedback' with them, as there is with spanner/socket)
Impact wrenches are supposed to be time savers, but..... often cause more aggro than they save. It's ok saying then have torque settings, but they don't have the feedback that fingers slowly engaging the threads has.
 
HughJarsse said:
As a retired aircraft engineer, we were always taught to finger tight all nuts and bolts, because you can 'feel' if the threads are correctly lined up as the nut should be easy to put on the bolt, with little resistance. If there is any resistance when finger fitting, remove and start again, to stop the cross threading.
impact guns just apply the power with no 'feedback ' and usually too fast to stop any cross threading. Bit of copper grease does no harm.
Slow and steady, should be the motto here. We were always taught to use spanners/sockets, and then finally tighten with a torque wrench. Impact wrenches were only used for undoing anything that was stuck. (one inspector called them 'tools of the devil' because it was so easy to over tighten or cross thread bolts/nuts with them, as there wasn't any user 'feedback' with them, as there is with spanner/socket)
Impact wrenches are supposed to be time savers, but..... often cause more aggro than they save. It's ok saying then have torque settings, but they don't have the feedback that fingers slowly engaging the threads has.
Click to expand...
I can't remember how I also cross threaded the droplink on my 500X, but i'm just going to assume it was also through the impact gun. I've learnt my lesson now, hand tightening only on droplinks from now on, with a little grease.

I've bought two more droplinks from Amazon, i'm not expecting to need both, fingers crossed lol. Its more that i wanted the next day delivery and i had to buy them in a pair to get that. I'll put the spare one in the attic till needed.

I've booked the car for its MOT re-test on Monday 19th January, so i have one week to get it sorted.
 
AnthonyH said:
I can't remember how I also cross threaded the droplink on my 500X, but i'm just going to assume it was also through the impact gun. I've learnt my lesson now, hand tightening only on droplinks from now on, with a little grease.

I've bought two more droplinks from Amazon, i'm not expecting to need both, fingers crossed lol. Its more that i wanted the next day delivery and i had to buy them in a pair to get that. I'll put the spare one in the attic till needed.

I've booked the car for its MOT re-test on Monday 19th January, so i have one week to get it sorted.
Click to expand...
Just a small point, looking at the threads in your photo you may not have crossed the threads, but damaged them further down the thread when you used the jack to align the arm /link with the hole in the suspension strut.
So in effect the nut wound down the thread until it jammed on the damaged part further down.
Also as I mentioned earlier the rod has paint chipped off as though it had been strained going into the strut mounting point when you used the jack. Take your time is best. Like the old bull and the young bull joke, "young bull say I am going to run down and have one of those cows, the old bull says I am going to walk down and have the lot".;););)
 

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bugsymike said:
Just a small point, looking at the threads in your photo you may not have crossed the threads, but damaged them further down the thread when you used the jack to align the arm /link with the hole in the suspension strut.
So in effect the nut wound down the thread until it jammed on the damaged part further down.
Also as I mentioned earlier the rod has paint chipped off as though it had been strained going into the strut mounting point when you used the jack. Take your time is best. Like the old bull and the young bull joke, "young bull say I am going to run down and have one of those cows, the old bull says I am going to walk down and have the lot".;););)
Click to expand...

After struggling to get the old droplink off I did think getting the new one on will be easy so I was a bit gungho. So you're right. Slow and steady wins the race.

Appears I'm a young bull lol
:)

Time to get some Monster.
 
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