Technical Failed MOT

[Zardo]

The handbrake had been too loose, so i tightened it a fair amount for the MOT, possibly too much. I could have a look in there and see if anything is sticking/needs adjusting. I'll need to have a close look. I am wondering what that sticking is about, maybe i'll clean the shoes/drums and grease the cable. And check where both are against their stops. I'll probably take pictures and post them for input. I did replace these shoes a couple of years ago, it wasn't much fun

The handbrake should be auto-adjusting. If the brake shoes stick because of forced over-adjustment, they're probably gone by now as they will heat up intensely and destroy themselves in the process.

 

[bugsymike]

I've ordered some of these to polish the headlights.

View attachment 479598

The cutting compound i already have might work, its supposed to have finer grit than T-Cut though, so if it doesn't work i'll get the T-Cut and try again.

A new droplink is on its way.

Don't forget to use a bit of water on the sponge mop as well as the cutting compound or it will overheat the work, same as too much pressure.

 

[AnthonyH]

I've just been to have a look, the droplink is indeed split. I can vaguely remember doing that. I should have replaced it at the time i changed the strut but wanted to get the car back on the road as soon as possible. I've got some penetrant on it and will add some more later.

The handbrake also has an issue. I took some video;

What you can't hear on the videos is just how much the rear offside is crunching and grinding when i pull the handbrake up. It is quite loud and the force is definitely mismatched across the two drums.

This is the patched up repair on the underside of the car, i wonder if the cable is sticking in there?

The other thing that comes to mind is that one cable is longer than the other. I'm really ragging the offside and it actually only moves a few mm but the nearside moves a few cm.

I don't think the problem requires cleaning the drums like the garage suggested, i know the shoes were new.

 

[AnthonyH]

The handbrake should be auto-adjusting. If the brake shoes stick because of forced over-adjustment, they're probably gone by now as they will heat up intensely and destroy themselves in the process.

Its getting too dark to get the car up on stands now but i will have time tomorrow fingers crossed. I also need to cross my fingers that the shoes aren't gone, i can't say i want to replace them, its kind of awkward.

 

[bugsymike]

That handbrake cable "repair" may be only a heat shield as near the exhaust.
Re the cables, something is wrong when one is massively different in adjustment.
I think an inspection inside the drums is required.

 

[AnthonyH]

That handbrake cable "repair" may be only a heat sheild as near the exhaust.

Ahh that would make sense. And i prefer your explanation to mine

Re the cables, something is wrong when one is massively different in adjustment.
I think an inspection inside the drums is required.

Yes its heading there tomorrow. I knew this was a problem a year or more ago, so its become time to address it

 

[bugsymike]

Ahh that would make sense. And i prefer your explanation to mine


Yes its heading there tomorrow. I knew this was a problem a year or more ago, so its become time to address it

My thoughts are, once drums off, inspect self adjusters are correctly fitted and working , also with hand brake off both levers on brake shoes should be back against their stops. If not unwind the hand brake adjuster at the lever inside the car, then if self adjusters are correctly fitted in the slots in brake shoes and no other damage, I would manually adjust the self adjusters so both brake drums just slide on and spin freely next press brake pedal several times and check again drums spinning freely, now adjust handbrake lever inside the car, but make sure even after first click you can still turn the drums, but after two or three they start to lock the road wheels so you could tighten the wheel nuts without the wheel turning.
Ideally road test then jack up and check all still free. Note after road test no wheel should feel hotter than the others.
It is possible that the "crunching and grinding" is if adjusters inside drum not working properly then the handbrake lever on the show is fouling something when pulled on as going to far, something it can't do if adjustment correct.Before trying to manually adjust the self adjusters inside the brake drums check so you understand the action correctly.

 

[AnthonyH]

My thoughts are, once drums off, inspect self adjusters are correctly fitted and working , also with hand brake off both levers on brake shoes should be back against their stops. If not unwind the hand brake adjuster at the lever inside the car, then if self adjusters are correctly fitted in the slots in brake shoes and no other damage, I would manually adjust the self adjusters so both brake drums just slide on and spin freely next press brake pedal several times and check again drums spinning freely, now adjust handbrake lever inside the car, but make sure even after first click you can still turn the drums, but after two or three they start to lock the road wheels so you could tighten the wheel nuts without the wheel turning.
Ideally road test then jack up and check all still free. Note after road test no wheel should feel hotter than the others.
It is possible that the "crunching and grinding" is if adjusters inside drum not working properly then the handbrake lever on the show is fouling something when pulled on as going to far, something it can't do if adjustment correct.Before trying to manually adjust the self adjusters inside the brake drums check so you understand the action correctly.

Ahh yes, you've given a couple of options that both sound likely to be the problem. I know i had a problem with the self adjuster on that side when i fitted it. I'm going to take video when the drums are off and before i do anything else because I could easily miss the evidence for a diagnosis by removing/ changing parts, so i'll take it slowly.

I think i managed to kill several adjusters, so in re-reading your post i'll need to be super careful when doing anything with them.

 

[bugsymike]

Ahh yes, you've given a couple of options that both sound likely to be the problem. I know i had a problem with the self adjuster on that side when i fitted it. I'm going to take video when the drums are off and before i do anything else because I could easily miss the evidence for a diagnosis by removing/ changing parts, so i'll take it slowly.

Compare with good side.
Re the adjusters if they are in good order, as the handbrake is operated you will see the self adjuster move to take up the next tooth on the adjuster rod, if careful it is possible to do this with a pair of long nose pliers, but for safety I suggest you just work the handbrake lever a couple of times and check then repeat if required. An assistant is useful.

 

[AnthonyH]

Compare with good side.

I'll get both drums off, i'm hoping brakes on the other side actually are good then lol And i'll get video of both the good and bad side.

 

[Zardo]

View attachment 479604

Either the left cable is partially ruptured and has lengthened, or the self-adjusting mecanism on the left side is broken (not adjusting any more) - the balancer should be strictly perpendicular to the cables. Third option: one cable is original, the other is aftermarket

 

[bugsymike]

Either the left cable is partially ruptured and has lengthened, or the self-adjusting mecanism on the left side is broken (not adjusting any more) - the balancer should be strictly perpendicular to the cables. Third option: one cable is original, the other is aftermarket

Yes, my money is on the self adjusting mechanism inside the drum.

 

[AnthonyH]

Its raining here today, so i'm not going to get it up on stands. It snowed here last night but that has now gone thankfully!

So i decided to polish one of the headlamps - and it worked! Happy days I could hardly forget to add water to the cutting compound with the rain lol, and didn't bother to mask it up. I can well imagine without you guys i'd have been sanding the headlamp with 40 grit sandpaper, scratching it to smithereens and generally tearing my hair out while i tried to fix it.

These are the current right headlamp which has been cleaned and the left which hasn't.

The left headlamp has a bit of damage, you can see a bit of clear tape. I bought it like this and it passes the MOT with an advisory only.

I could probably get a bit more off the one thats cleaned, i can still see some residue, but is it worth it? I presume it will pass the MOT like this?

 

[jackwhoo]

Its raining here today, so i'm not going to get it up on stands. It snowed here last night but that has now gone thnkfully!

So i decided to polish one of the headlamps - and it worked! Happy days I could hardly forget to add water to the cutting compound with the rain lol, and didn't bother to mask it up. I can well imagine without you guys i'd have been sanding the headlamp with 40 grit sandpaper, scratchng it to smithereens and generally tearing my hair out while i tried to fix it.

These are the current right headlamp which has been cleaned and the left which hasn't.


View attachment 479629

View attachment 479628

The left headlamp has a bit of damage, you can see a bit of clear tape. I bought it like this and it passes the MOT with an advisory only.

I could probably get a bit more off the one thats cleaned, i can still see some residue, but is it worth it? I presume it will pass the MOT like this time?

I was sceptical about your clearcoat safe compound but.....huge well done and thanks for update.
I Think headlight def passable (-;

 

[rmjbn1]

As I understand they go cloudy when the lacquer fails due to UV exposure

A good quality UV resistant lacquer may help to keep the lenses clear for longer

Or just see how long it takes for them to go cloudy again and polish them before every MOT

 

[bugsymike]

As I understand they go cloudy when the lacquer fails due to UV exposure

A good quality UV resistant lacquer may help to keep the lenses clear for longer

Or just see how long it takes for them to go cloudy again and polish them before every MOT

Trouble is you have to clean the lacquer off when it goes cloudy again.
I tend to just use car polish afterwards, but still end up the same next Mot.
At least we don't get the broken glass of the old days.

 

[jackwhoo]

I've just been to have a look, the droplink is indeed split. I can vaguely remember doing that. I should have replaced it at the time i changed the strut but wanted to get the car back on the road as soon as possible. I've got some penetrant on it and will add some more later.

View attachment 479600


The handbrake also has an issue. I took some video;

View attachment 479601


View attachment 479602


What you can't hear on the videos is just how much the rear offside is crunching and grinding when i pull the handbrake up. It is quite loud and the force is definitely mismatched across the two drums.

This is the patched up repair on the underside of the car, i wonder if the cable is sticking in there?

View attachment 479603


The other thing that comes to mind is that one cable is longer than the other. I'm really ragging the offside and it actually only moves a few mm but the nearside moves a few cm.

View attachment 479604

I don't think the problem requires cleaning the drums like the garage suggested, i know the shoes were new.

Sorry only just saw those videos.....can see from video hand brake cable grossy over adjusted too tight causing binding offside rear brake plus nearside rear self adjuster not working/not adjusted.

 

[bugsymike]

I just got this when I tried to view.

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[jackwhoo]

I just got this when I tried to view.

403 - Forbidden: Access is denied.​

You do not have permission to view this directory or page using the credentials that you supplied.​

Could be worth trying again later

 

[bugsymike]

Could be worth trying again later

Still the same, it opened the one of the handbrake cable, but not the others.