Technical Engine swap, 16v question

[nmrmak]

This is not another dead project

Copper headgasket:

Out with the gearbox:

What should we put in this empty slot:

In with the new engine:

The engine is in the car, along with the gearbox. Next up is hooking the electrics and the megasquirt up, then i'm towing it to have an exhaust mani made and matched to the turbo



I do have one question... on the old inlet mani, there are two fuel? hoses coming into the manifold. I'm guessing one of them is the return? (the base car is a sei MPI)
Can i just block off the return?

 

[nmrmak]

More pics:


Engine and gearbox in, doing the wiring:

Wiring the megasquirt setup:

Much easier when you have the dash off:

Current engine bay look:

I still have that question about the fuel return line, what should i do with it? Can i just block it and use my MPI fuel pump or do i have to get a single-line fuel pump or something?



Thanks.

 

[BlueDan]

Meant to like the other post, sorry. :doh:
Can't undo the likes/dislikes.

Don't know about the fuel return, but someone else will

 

[arc]

I still have that question about the fuel return line, what should i do with it? Can i just block it and use my MPI fuel pump or do i have to get a single-line fuel pump or something?

Yes, you can just cap the fuel return on the fuel rail. This is what I did on my P75 and 1368cc conversion.



I used an external regulator (which is what you're doing by using the one in the tank on the MPI) - can see the reg in the image. The fuel feed isn't connected to the rail in that picture, but it connects to the lower one -and then the upper one was capped off.

You could, instead, use a returnless rail (as I did later on with the 16v);

https://www.fiatforum.com/cinquecen...quecento-development-thread-13.html?p=2242552

 

[nmrmak]

thanks a lot, i'll just cap it off for starters

 

[nmrmak]

Managed to idle it for some 5-10 seconds on megasquirt today!
The problem is that the fuel pump only primes and cuts off the fuel immediately after, so it's a wiring problem. After that, i'm making an exhaust mani that can take my turbo

So, in a way, it's alive!

 

[nmrmak]

How did you 1.2 16v conversion veterans solve the metal cooling pipe problem? The coolant pipe that exits the engine at the front rubs on the radiator, what can i do to solve it?

Also, which pipe goes where? There's the metal pipe on the engine, the one on the thermostat, and the last one on the intake mani. How do i interconnect all of them?

 

[BlueDan]

On a SPI 1108 the thermostat connects directly to the top of the radiator. The bottom of the rad goes to the metal pipe, and the hose splits off to the header tank and heater matrix, then back out and into the TB. The TB has a small hose back out to the header tank. I believe some people put the metal pipe off the original 1108 on, with a new seal.

 

[nmrmak]

Thanks for the quick reply.

I guess i should connect it like this then:
- metal pipe -> bottom of the rad
- engine thermostat -> upper rad
- split from the bottom of the rad -> heater matrix bottom
- intake mani -> heater matrix upper

am i right? This is a 1.2 16v engine in a 1.1 MPI sei.

 

[nmrmak]

And this is without the lambda (obviously), no air temp sensor, no coolant in the engine, no engine temp sensor, the TPS was not calibrated...
Hope i'll have better movs in a few days...
The plan is to calibrate the TPS and attach an air temp sensor to the megasquirt.

Also, i think i might have the VR sensor wired in the wrong way round, i'll see if i can get a better signal next time.

 

[BlueDan]

That's a good sound for a small cheap city car :devil:

 

[nmrmak]

No exhaust mani too!

Wait until the turbo manifold is finished

 

[nmrmak]

In case anyone does this after me, when fitting the cooling system, everything is "bolt for bolt" the same, you just have to use the sei's metal coolant pipe that comes out at the front of the engine instead of the 1.2 16v pipe.

 

[nmrmak]

Disregard the coolant pipe hanging, a friend was giving me directions so as not to drive over it. No coolant in the engine so it was only a 30s "drive". I have to source a plastic pipe thingy that broke while i was putting the new engine in.

The car feels insane, the clutch is very hard, feels like it has loads of power and i had slight wheelspin at 2.5k rpm with the throttle at around 20%. I can't wait until it's done!

Coming up next: putting the dashboard back together, finding a place for MS and the relay box inside the car and bolting it to the chassis someplace. Also, i'm doing some interior touches, should look pretty nice.

The engine needs a custom turbo exhaust manifold fabricated and a good remap

Given that the car is 120km from me and i can only work on it a day or two per week, i think it's realistic that i'll finish the project in february next year. Until then, i'll post more pics and vids

 

[BlueDan]

iirc, arc put his under the dashboard where the little rack-thing is, where the car handbook goes. That would have been a shorter cable run on a RHD car, though.

 

[nmrmak]

I think the relay box will go under the fuel inertial cutoff switch, and the actual megasquirt box will probably go in the "car handbook compartment", with a cable between them.

There are a few ideas running through my head, i might make a usb jack in the dashboard so you can just plug your laptop into the car

 

[arc]

I put the relay box where the existing was - this meant I didn't have to extend all the wires.

The ECU was then attached to the "handbook rack" (I liked having the LEDs in view)

If you want to be snazzy you could get an RS232 to Bluetooth convertor and then wirelessly connect to it

 

[nmrmak]

Didn't want to put the relay box in the engine compartment as the manual was explicitly against that. Wire length isn't an issue though...

I already have a RS232->USB converter, so i'll probably try tidying it up that way
It's been years since BT technology has been out but i still don't feel it's as stable as the wired connections.

Btw, i was so happy when i finally felt it move, the car has been off road for almost 2 months now...

 

[arc]

Where did you get the board from? Mine said it was ideally for going in the bay;

The MS should be mounted away from excess heat, like in the passenger compartment. The Relay Board can be mounted in the engine compartment, or in the passenger's compartment next to the MegaSquirt® ECU.

http://www.bgsoflex.com/mspower/relay-cable.html

The relay/power board is designed to be installed in the engine compartment and interconnected to the MegaSquirt® ECU using a remote cable

Q: Where does the Relay/Power board mount in relation to the MegaSquirt® ECU?

A: The Relay/Power box is designed to be mounted under hood, near the engine and sensors. The MegaSquirt ECU should be mounted inside of the passenger compartment, away from engine heat. The Relay/Power board is connected to the MegaSquirt® ECU using a multi-conductor cable assembly and two DB-37 connectors.

Q: Which case is used for board mounting?

A: The Relay/Power board uses one half of a LMB EAS-200. The case comes apart in halves (top and bottom) when you remove the end plates. The Relay/Power PCB slides into one of the case halves, and is held in place with the end plates - one plate is cut in half and used on both sides. The top of the LMB case is not tall enough to clear the relays, so it is not used.

Q: So, this means that the top of the board is exposed?

A: Yes, but this is acceptable in a engine bay environment. The unit is mounted under hood, so the likelihood of accidental shorts, contacts to foreign objects, etc. is the same as with any other engine component (starter, alternator, fuse block, etc). The PCB has a solder mask layer which will provide some protection, and the user can coat the finished board with conformal coating or polyurethane before mounting in the case. In addition, all circuits are fused, so an accidental contact will cause a fuse or polyswitch device to open. One thing to remember is to drill a small (1/8") hole in the bottom-side of the case to allow the escape of moisture from the backside of the PCB/case interior.

http://www.bgsoflex.com/mspower/mspower.html

etc

That first fire up and drive is always

 

[BlueDan]

However, putting the relay board inside would make it harder for the AA man to knock one of the wires out