I looked at it and it's fine
Looking at a cable will only work if it's obvious,
The rest of the time it tells you little
Measuring its resitance at 0 ohms also does not mean it can handle 100 amp
There is only one sensable option and that is to load the circuit and measure any voltage drop
This is a test light on the ECU which is bolted to the cylinder head, the other end is connected to the battery negative on a car with a faulty gearbox strap
The bulb lights dimly when the ignition is switched on and bright while trying to crank
Basicly the test light is on either end of a the same cable (short) , so should remain off as both ends should be at the same potential
You do have to make a good contact with the meter / test light leads for the test to be valid
Imagine wrapping the test leads in insulating tape then trying to measure the battery votage, instead of 12.6V it would be 0V, oil, dirt, oxides can all act as the insulating tape. Most oxides are poor conducters
If the meter isn't auto ranging it need to be on a low DC volt setting
Here's the battery terminal ready to take a measurement, obviously reconnect the terminal
And here's a lug on the cam cover prepared
Between these two points should be less than 0.2V while cranking
To test the chassis ground measure between the battery negative and a bare bit of metal on the body, with the main beam and rear window heater on, here I have used the left engine mount,
And it's the same process for the ESP battery negative terminal to here while turning the steering wheel
Looking at a cable will only work if it's obvious,
The rest of the time it tells you little
Measuring its resitance at 0 ohms also does not mean it can handle 100 amp
There is only one sensable option and that is to load the circuit and measure any voltage drop
This is a test light on the ECU which is bolted to the cylinder head, the other end is connected to the battery negative on a car with a faulty gearbox strap
The bulb lights dimly when the ignition is switched on and bright while trying to crank
Basicly the test light is on either end of a the same cable (short) , so should remain off as both ends should be at the same potential
You do have to make a good contact with the meter / test light leads for the test to be valid
Imagine wrapping the test leads in insulating tape then trying to measure the battery votage, instead of 12.6V it would be 0V, oil, dirt, oxides can all act as the insulating tape. Most oxides are poor conducters
If the meter isn't auto ranging it need to be on a low DC volt setting
Here's the battery terminal ready to take a measurement, obviously reconnect the terminal
And here's a lug on the cam cover prepared
Between these two points should be less than 0.2V while cranking
To test the chassis ground measure between the battery negative and a bare bit of metal on the body, with the main beam and rear window heater on, here I have used the left engine mount,
And it's the same process for the ESP battery negative terminal to here while turning the steering wheel
Last edited:
