Technical Panda HP earth cable replacement (under the battery)

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Technical Panda HP earth cable replacement (under the battery)

snowy71

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Hi can anyone tell me how to get to the gearbox end earth connector please done the rest (battery out etc) but can't suss this as I want to replace to hopefully cure throttle issues thanks Graham
 
 
Thanks I'd seen that and followed it as far as I could but unless I've missed it I can't see it saying how to get to the gearbox end of the earth strap. I've been on so many forum links I think I saw a comment about moving the clutch slave cylinder but may have been for a 500, and can I find that link or an image with an arrow on it? Can I heck!

I've bought contact cleaner, brush and copper nuts, I'm just one end of a cable short of an earth cable! 😂
 
And now have the Cooperman mod to install over the weekend, feeling part of the elite club now!!
 
If the 100hp is the same as the 1.1 and 1.2

You remove the battery
Plastic battery liner
Battery tray

And the earth is under one of the clutch slave cylinder bolts


It’s the only connection between the starter negative and the battery. If the starter is turning and the battery is charging is fine it should be fine

If you suspect it causing a problem it would be better to add a jump lead between the battery negative and somewhere on the engine or gearbox. Before disturbing anything. Personally I use the gear selector bracket.

I see several people have fixed there problem in 2016 then nothing.
Surly an extra 6 years of corrosion and we should see loads more.
 
Thanks, I'll look for the clutch slave, I couldn't see the far end of the cable, only that under the battery. Intend removing it, cleaning up etc and putting back on based on those posts in 2016, seemed to cure the revving fluctuation for a few which I have on the car just bought. Worst case is I'll have a clean earth at the end of it. MAP sensor being cleaned up too. Thanks for replying.
 
Battery tray is held by either two or three bolts 12 or 13mm and once you have removed the wires clipped to it it will lift out. There is a drain pipe attached that will fall off as you move it. This just clips on. Nothing difficult. Unclipping attached wires is the worst bit.

I suggest you bleed the clutch fluid while you ar there as it saves another visit later and ,it may improve the clutch action.
 
Thanks, I'll look for the clutch slave, I couldn't see the far end of the cable, only that under the battery. Intend removing it, cleaning up etc and putting back on based on those posts in 2016, seemed to cure the revving fluctuation for a few which I have on the car just bought. Worst case is I'll have a clean earth at the end of it. MAP sensor being cleaned up too. Thanks for replying.
More likely due to moving the wiring harness which is clipped to the bottom of the tray

Which is why it's best to only touch one thing at once while diagnosing a problem, otherwise you will never know what actually fixed the problem

If it’s failing at idle all you have to do is get a jump lead and connect it from the battery negative to any metal on the engine or gearbox

You’ve eliminated the earth strap and disturbed nothing
 
More likely due to moving the wiring harness which is clipped to the bottom of the tray

Which is why it's best to only touch one thing at once while diagnosing a problem, otherwise you will never know what actually fixed the problem

If it’s failing at idle all you have to do is get a jump lead and connect it from the battery negative to any metal on the engine or gearbox

You’ve eliminated the earth strap and disturbed nothing
Thanks, theres no idling issue it when on the move it seems to drop revs like you've taken your foot off the gas which is what the guy on that old post said and the cure appeared to be rejuvenating the earth cable. You're right one thing at a time. I'll clean the MAP then test as that's easy, then the earth cable "fun". Cheers.
 
Battery tray is held by either two or three bolts 12 or 13mm and once you have removed the wires clipped to it it will lift out. There is a drain pipe attached that will fall off as you move it. This just clips on. Nothing difficult. Unclipping attached wires is the worst bit.

I suggest you bleed the clutch fluid while you ar there as it saves another visit later and ,it may improve the clutch action.
Thanks I did all of that, apart from the clutch bleed, last night but it was the far end of the earth cable I couldn't see/reach and didn't want to unsettle anything before checking with the experts, ie you Pandexperts on here. Loving the help and sense of community, born out of years of fixing them no doubt, and a desire to keep them going and perfecting them. Cheers.
 
Earth cable cleaned and greased and wiring tube all reconnected under the battery tray test it tomorrow
 
If the 100hp is the same as the 1.1 and 1.2

You remove the battery
Plastic battery liner
Battery tray

And the earth is under one of the clutch slave cylinder bolts


It’s the only connection between the starter negative and the battery. If the starter is turning and the battery is charging is fine it should be fine

If you suspect it causing a problem it would be better to add a jump lead between the battery negative and somewhere on the engine or gearbox. Before disturbing anything. Personally I use the gear selector bracket.

I see several people have fixed there problem in 2016 then nothing.
Surly an extra 6 years of corrosion and we should see loads more.
I had a sudden problem with the Panda (2012) not starting. The gearbox earth strap (braided) had begun to fray. As stated above, the second bolt was under the clutch slave cylinder & was easy to access after removing the battery & battery tray. Earth was replaced with a sleeved version & hey presto: all sorted. Photo of the old earth strap attached for info. Hope this helps someone.
 

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The gearbox to body shell strap on my Multijet is a mess of green gunk. I'm planning to fit a pair of short cheap earth links as the conductors all look too small to do a good job. The special bolt on my gearbox was cruddy so it's now using all-thread studding (fully coated in copper grease).
 
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