Technical Dual mass flywheel 1.9JTD

[bikes-for-me]

Can anyone clear a view ,if you have to replace the dual mass flywheel when you change the clutch on the 1.9JTD engine.
Car done 86k and it might be looking like i need a new clutch,which we can not really afford it to be honest.
Will mean doing the work myself,something i have not really done before.The flywheels i have seen cost around the £270 mark,which seems like a crazy amount of money to pay on top of clutch kit.Never heard of having to change the flywheel when you do the clutch before,until a read a few threads on here.
If it is true does anybody know the cheapest place to buy one,can you get a recon one a lot cheaper,and why dont they come in the clutch kits if it needs doing when you replace the clutch.All veiws very much welcome.

 

[Pud237]

Can't say til you have it out I'm afraid, you have to measure the play in the DMF and if it is outside of spec then replace. If it is within spec then keep it. A lot of garages say you HAVE to replace it, you don't, but if your car is up on the ramps waiting while a DMF is delivered, thats their money being wasted, which is why I reckon they say you have to change it.

 

[bikes-for-me]

Can't say til you have it out I'm afraid, you have to measure the play in the DMF and if it is outside of spec then replace. If it is within spec then keep it. A lot of garages say you HAVE to replace it, you don't, but if your car is up on the ramps waiting while a DMF is delivered, thats their money being wasted, which is why I reckon they say you have to change it.

Cheers for that,any tips on how you check the play on the DMF and what spec it should be within.Also are they a weak item or can they do serious miles.

 

[Pud237]

I've not had one out personally, so I don't know how to check for play. Its clutch slip that does most of the damage to them though, this overheats the rubber and stresses it.

Do you get any drivetrain judder on a fast take off, or if you floor it in 5th at 2k rpm?

 

[bikes-for-me]

I've not had one out personally, so I don't know how to check for play. Its clutch slip that does most of the damage to them though, this overheats the rubber and stresses it.

Do you get any drivetrain judder on a fast take off, or if you floor it in 5th at 2k rpm?

Not at all,just a swirling noise when clutch pedal pressed down.Think maybe clutch release bearing noise.

 

[Hellcat]

It's dropping the clutch too hard which kills the DMF. If the rubber has to take up too much impact it will eventually wear out.

Checking play is a case of twisting it, and if the centre ring moves too far/too easily then it's new DMF time.

 

[JTDman]

Ive done mine , as my clutch was fecked but when i took the clutch out i found it had been installed the wrong way round.
The clutch was grating on the bolts of the flywheel so im not 100% the flywheel was done in even though the play felt the same as the new one.
Ive still got the old one ill try an measure the play.
I got mine for about £220 but with the vat and p+p it came to about £260

 

[bikes-for-me]

Ive done mine , as my clutch was fecked but when i took the clutch out i found it had been installed the wrong way round.
The clutch was grating on the bolts of the flywheel so im not 100% the flywheel was done in even though the play felt the same as the new one.
Ive still got the old one ill try an measure the play.
I got mine for about £220 but with the vat and p+p it came to about £260

I just scraped enough money for a clutch kit,they range between £90-£120 on the net.I can pick a fiat one up for £120 odd plus vat on the net,so thinking that might be better bet.
Just hoping the job is easy and i dont need any special tools,and that the flywheel is ok.Going to start it middle of next week if weather ok,working outside.Lets just hope that everything is fine once this is done.At moment you have to double the clutch when it plays up,and if that dont work you have to turn engine off to put it in gear.
Doind some home work into doing the job,found the marea pdf file,think the gearbox and clutch might be the same.Got the multipla cd,but find it very confusing to use.

 

[JTDman]

Id order 2 driveshaft seals just in case as i tried to leave the offside driveshaft on and damaged it, its a heavy little begger you will nead someone above the car with a couple of straps to take the weight while your underneath tryin to manouver the box out as its a little tight.
If you have any sump leaks now is the time to address them as its a box off or at least split and moved over job to get to 2 spline bolts to release the sump.
Be carefull when removing the gearbox linkage cables as one of mine had been welded back together by someone in the past and they are about £110 dealer only and you have to buy the 2 at once.
Id leave the ball fittings in place and remove the bracket they are secured to if its possible to save the poss damage.

 

[Hellcat]

Its a subframe loose and support engine job for the 2.4JTD... easier on the 4 cylinder. Driveshafts removed both inboard and outboard.

 

[bikes-for-me]

Great one lads,need all the help i can get.Just brought the clutch off ebay £130 all in for fiat one,plus £21 for set of ribe bits which i think jtdman said you need.
I have just changed the gearbox oil,do you need to remove the oil to remove it,or can you remove it and leave oil in.Just need a work plan now on what to remove in which order,no going back now.

 

[JTDman]

I left the driveshafts insitu on the hubs, yes drop the box oil before starting large "allen nut" you may need to cut one down as they are a pig to get to if i remember right . I also left the subframe as is but it is a squeeze, i twisted the box towards the rear of the care a little then brought it out towards the front of the car.
Have fun with the 3 starter moter bolts 2 from below but the upper one from above. If your doing this in the street on your back like i did then remove the following:
Both front wheels
Both driveshafts from the gearbox
Battery and tray (allows access from above for the box linkage)
Inlet pipe and airfilter box
Both near and offside inner plastic wheel arch trims
Sensor at the rear of the gearbox(well the wires for it)
The gearbox linkage on top of the box
Slave cylinder again on top of the box
Main engine mount at the rear to allow a bit of room to manouver

Ill post more as i remember them but if doing this job the i would deffinatley change the main output shaft seal as well as its carrier they are not expensive and are a common failure on the gearboxes causing loss of the box oil and ruining the bearings inside 10 minute job to do when the box is out and make sure you seal it back in with some sump silicone stuff.
Id get them orderd now as they may take a little while with dealers.

 

[bikes-for-me]

I left the driveshafts insitu on the hubs, yes drop the box oil before starting large "allen nut" you may need to cut one down as they are a pig to get to if i remember right . I also left the subframe as is but it is a squeeze, i twisted the box towards the rear of the care a little then brought it out towards the front of the car.
Have fun with the 3 starter moter bolts 2 from below but the upper one from above. If your doing this in the street on your back like i did then remove the following:
Both front wheels
Both driveshafts from the gearbox
Battery and tray (allows access from above for the box linkage)
Inlet pipe and airfilter box
Both near and offside inner plastic wheel arch trims
Sensor at the rear of the gearbox(well the wires for it)
The gearbox linkage on top of the box
Slave cylinder again on top of the box
Main engine mount at the rear to allow a bit of room to manouver

Ill post more as i remember them but if doing this job the i would deffinatley change the main output shaft seal as well as its carrier they are not expensive and are a common failure on the gearboxes causing loss of the box oil and ruining the bearings inside 10 minute job to do when the box is out and make sure you seal it back in with some sump silicone stuff.
Id get them orderd now as they may take a little while with dealers.

Brill, big help.Will have to see if can get them online.

 

[JTDman]

Offside driveshaft ! once you have removed the 6 allen bolts to free the shaft and swung the outer part away it needs a little tap on the outer edge to release it from the carrier that is bolted to the back of the engine/sump mine popped out along with the bearing once id released the plate that holds the bearing 3x 10mm i think youll know when you see it.

But both nearside and offside ball joints on the wishbones need to be released i also removed the anti roll bar drop links but left the brake calipers insitu on both sides.

 

[bikes-for-me]

Offside driveshaft ! once you have removed the 6 allen bolts to free the shaft and swung the outer part away it needs a little tap on the outer edge to release it from the carrier that is bolted to the back of the engine/sump mine popped out along with the bearing once id released the plate that holds the bearing 3x 10mm i think youll know when you see it.

But both nearside and offside ball joints on the wishbones need to be released i also removed the anti roll bar drop links but left the brake calipers insitu on both sides.

Great help,thanks.I will not be rushing it,just going to take my time.Did you have to use a clutch tool to line plates up when you put it back,and is there any other special tools i might need.
Got to say you have been a great help, and when i start it some time next week, think i will take photos step by step so can post it in here to help other people out if all goes well.
Cost a lot of money to pay someone to do your clutch,and like me not everyone can afford it,so if i can do it anyone can.

 

[JTDman]

I did mean to do the same but it just didnt work out, as soon as i was coverd in oil it all went t*ts up.

 

[bikes-for-me]

I did mean to do the same but it just didnt work out, as soon as i was coverd in oil it all went t*ts up.

Covered in oil,might leave it then.Ordered seals but they will not be here until end of week,and not paying for clutch kit until monday off ebay,so be waiting for that too.
Not sure if to put a new clutch slave in too,did you have to remove front exhaust.Just dreading undoing some off the bolts,was a right pain on some of them when i just did drop links,anti roll bar,and front discs,plus working from the floor does not help.
Car is getting a lot worse now,double clutching it not helping much,you have to turn engine off,so not using it now to be safe.

 

[JTDman]

I did lower the front section but i was taking the sump off as well , should be able to leave it may be easier for access on the offside d/shaft though.