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Technical Dead Panda

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Technical Dead Panda

the fact its almost starting and appears to have spark and fuel it could well be flooded

remove the spark plugs

disconnect the electrical connector from each injector

press the accelerator to the floor and crank for about 10 seconds

replace everything

crank it over without touching the accelerator
 
koalar said:
the fact its almost starting and appears to have spark and fuel it could well be flooded

remove the spark plugs

disconnect the electrical connector from each injector

press the accelerator to the floor and crank for about 10 seconds

replace everything

crank it over without touching the accelerator
Click to expand...

All good apart from:
disconnect the electrical connector from each injector

Not something I have actually done before. Give me a pointer I know it's the leads next to the spark plug leads. Do they just pop off?
 
newbie fiat said:
All good apart from:
disconnect the electrical connector from each injector

Not something I have actually done before. Give me a pointer I know it's the leads next to the spark plug leads. Do they just pop off?
Click to expand...


there at the back under the air filter. bit fiddly todo


an easier way to stop the enjectors firing would be to pull the relay for the injectors located to the right of the battery. On my car its T09. Unfortunately Fiat changes the layout of the fuse box all the time.


Fiat does stamp the locations into the underside of the lid if t09 looks like an engine your good to go.
 
there's many ways to dry the cylinders

leaving the plugs out overnight should be enough.


Corsa B i use to pull the fuel pump fuse and crank it a bit longer without the plugs in.
 
Disconnected fuse as suggested. It was t09. Cranked for about a minute. Reconnected and still the same. It does try to fire more with throttle open but only a little not enough to catch and sustain.
 
Just realised I missed the step about removing spark plugs. I removed fuse and cranked then replaced fuse and cranked again. I'll try again tomorrow with the plugs out this time:bang:
 
Cam timing wont change once the engine has been boxed up. Check you have the coils on the correct plugs and check timing marks add up. Also check the valves are opening at correct time to confirm the crank is not 180 out of phase to the cam.

The valves should be shut at TDC on #1 .
 
Last edited:
DaveMcT said:
Cam timing wont change once the engine has been boxed up. Check you have the coils on the correct plugs and check timing marks add up. Also check the valves are opening at correct time to confirm the crank is not 180 out of phase to the cam.

The valves should be shut at TDC on #1 .
Click to expand...

Cam timing wont change once the engine has been boxed up.

Huh? Do you mean the engine shouldn't go out of timing (unless the belt is old and about to go?)

Check you have the coils on the correct plugs

Yep correct. they was obviously already in the correct order when it cut out and I marked them up with colour codes to ensure they stayed in right order while removing plugs

check timing marks add up.

Not took the timing covers off yet but next on my list but again I'm confused as that contradicts what you said at the start that the timing wouldn't go out. Think I'm mis interpreting something!
 
No worries.

I'm saying that if the timing is set wrong it will stay wrong. It can't change unless (as you say) the belt jumps or loses some teeth.

To properly check it, set the cam with the locking tool. This ensure the valves are correctly positioned. Now check the crank is correctly aligned with timing marks and #1 cylinder is at top dead centre. Just checking timing marks on the wheels isn't enough.

If the timing is correct it can't change. If its wrong it was originally set wrong.
 
okay that makes sense, ill give that a go if the rain holds off and i get enough light after work!

Cheers
 
varesecrazy said:
Ok.
A little clarification:

Immobiliser..
The symbol SHOULD illuminate at the self.test.. then go out.

Fuelling:you can test by using a trigger spray to allow a litte fuel into the bell mouth of the 'carb'...
Yours sound fine though..


MY EXPERIENCE..
our 1.1 moved around the drive for 30 seconds..
Came back after 2 mins... just cranking..

Did 90% of your tests..
Fuel pump didnt run..:(

Spent an hour fashionong a vast spanner to remove the pump.. failed miserably .:(

Got trailered to the fiat-alfa indy.

Easy fix..

The waterpump bearing had failed (13 months old..fitted by them)losing belt tension.

Cam belt was 7 TEETH OUT..!!

REPLACED WATERPUMP AND BELT

All fine..

Great to own a SAFE ENGINE :)
Click to expand...

So... Took the top timing cover off and it looks like im 6 teeth out. WHAT! That's only based on the nail varnish marks I made to line it all up. I need to check the bottom crank to confirm but I'm really surprised!!! It was installed perfectly. better than if I would of took it to a garage. And why did it run for 30 seconds before cutting out.. Weird!

My only thought is a bad tensioner that as it didn't move for 10 days the spring got stuck / relaxed in that position and when started didn't provide enough tension on the belt so its been able to slip far enough in that 30 seconds to cut out.

If its not this when I take the bottom cover off I really will be stumped. I got some bradex earlier and cranked on and off for 15 minutes till I was getting black smoke out the exhaust and gave up.

Ohh also checked fuel rail, it is pressurising as normal.

In work till next week so I'll report back at the start of the week on how I go!

Cheers
 
Changing the belt while the engine is already in alignment... No problem!

Putting an engine back in alignment. Err not too sure. I know about the marks on the crank and cam pulley and making sure they line up but what about each revolution of the engine. Does the bottom crank pulley (the small one) do anything different on each revolution or does it do the same thing each turn? I.e it looks from its size that it would turn 4 times for each time the camshaft turns so 8 times per full revolution of the engine. I have set the engine at TDC at the top but how can I be sure it is not on for example turn 3 when it should be on turn 1? If that makes sense?

Thanks for all the help so far! And thanks in advance for all the help to come!!
 
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