I haven't sorryAnyone any experience of these? Thanks
Technical Coolant leak on 100hp
- Thread starter MAKn
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Technical Coolant leak on 100hp
I don't think I've bought any of their product either. However look at this: https://www.vernet-group.com/ Looks to me like they should know what they are doing? Also I think carparts4less is affiliated in some way with Eurocar parts? seem to remember reading something somewhere about it? So probably as good a bet as any other - and I do like the look of that metal spigot!
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I bought a cast metal clutch master cylinder from these people. It cost £55 against £80 to £175 for a crummy fabricated steel tube thing from Fiat equipment manufacturers. Fiat were were asking hundreds of £. The cast master cylinder was a direct fit, works well and I have no reason to think it will not continue to do so.
Your thermostat options are the one you listed or the plastic spigot type from Shop 4 Parts. Search "100HP thermostat" on eBay will raise some ridiculous prices. Entering "Fiat 1.4" rather than "100HP" usually gives better price options for the same parts. The basic engines are used on many Fiat cars.
Personally I would go with S4P. They have never let me down and my 2007 100HP still has its plastic spigot thermostat from new.
Your thermostat options are the one you listed or the plastic spigot type from Shop 4 Parts. Search "100HP thermostat" on eBay will raise some ridiculous prices. Entering "Fiat 1.4" rather than "100HP" usually gives better price options for the same parts. The basic engines are used on many Fiat cars.
Personally I would go with S4P. They have never let me down and my 2007 100HP still has its plastic spigot thermostat from new.
don't see the logic in fitting one with a plastic spigot
because its never failed for you doesn't mean they dont fail
internet is full of them failing especially on 500 but also Lupo and Vectra's
I agree with you, I'd be going with a metal one if my car had that type of fitment (It doesn't as it's the older 60hp engine) However I support Dave in that I too like S4p and would have no hesitation buying most of their stuff.
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My point is more about costs. All metal sold for the 100HP are silly money. All metal for Fiat 1.4 are reasonable. I would like to know why the plastic spigot fails (lowest price of all). Plastic inlet manifolds do just fine and plastic plumbing has pretty much taken over from copper pipes.
Probably the load from vibrating hoses (and the weight of the coolant in those hoses) and the rigid aluminium casting acting on the stress raiser on the shoulder of the plastic part (either pressed in or threaded). Inlet manifolds tend to be one piece (no sudden change in modulus into an aluminium casting) and probably less load for their size/wall thickness.
find it easier to search by part number there's shed loads under £30. This was the cheapest, I dont always use the cheapest, I look at the poor reviews and see if they are genuine, look if they are genuinely in the UK if I need the part urgently and so on.
Household plumbing dosent have 100c water flow or the vibrations and external heat you get in an engine bay
I am fairly sure it fails because its flanged and the aluminium expands. most of the stress will be concentrated at the sharp corner. Seen similar failure where different materials have been used and the parts go through heat cycles
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The inlet manifold is plastic and that's bolted to the cylinder head. Temperature is not the issue. After all, what is the average kitchen kettle made from? Engines run at about 80 C same as domestic heating systems and well within limits for these plastics.
The question is not that the part uses a plastic spigot it's why are Fiat are mixing materials. All metal is well proven. All PEX would be fine. Mixing materials with different expansion rates risks trouble.
Picked up the new thermostat from Euro Car Parts and it looks the part.
Any advice on whether or not to drain the whole system? Read on another thread about simply removing the thermostat, replacing with new and connecting the pipes and sensor and then just topping up what leaks out. Thanks.
Any advice on whether or not to drain the whole system? Read on another thread about simply removing the thermostat, replacing with new and connecting the pipes and sensor and then just topping up what leaks out. Thanks.
depends
put a tube into the expantion bottle and siphon off below the thermostat housing, do the job and pour back in is all thats needed, quick and easy
but if the coolant is over a 3 or 4 years old I would change it, It starts to became acidic, destroying seals and loosing its anti corrosion properties
put a tube into the expantion bottle and siphon off below the thermostat housing, do the job and pour back in is all thats needed, quick and easy
but if the coolant is over a 3 or 4 years old I would change it, It starts to became acidic, destroying seals and loosing its anti corrosion properties
Well the old one came off pretty easy. Rain has stopped play here for the day and the only problem I have is that the old plastic spigot snapped off in the process and is now stuck in the hose. So far it's proving a little difficult to pull it out. Try again tomorrow. Old thermostat is pretty spotless and not showing obvious signs of why the original leak 
Often these jobs don’t go according to plan
It’s going to depend what tools are available to you, and how much is left to grip onto.
Mole grips
Pipe wrench
Vice
Screw extractor
Side cutters
Worse comes to worse it could be pushed out from the other side
Would just need another hose clamp
It’s going to depend what tools are available to you, and how much is left to grip onto.
Mole grips
Pipe wrench
Vice
Screw extractor
Side cutters
Worse comes to worse it could be pushed out from the other side
Would just need another hose clamp
As you say Koalar. It always looks so simple when you read it up in your Haynes manual (or whatever) but when that stud/bolt snaps off, bracket breaks, or you find that tool you were intending to use doesn't quite fit in the space available, it can all turn into a bit of a nightmare very quickly. Particularly frustrating when you think "if I just unbolt that and move it to the side then I'll be able to get at it more easily" only to break something which actually has little to do with the part you are trying to access. Then you're sitting thinking to yourself "if only I'd left it alone and worked round it" Ah, the joys, the joys!
it hard to remember back to what it was like when I first encountered such problems
but with experience thing get a lot, lot easier. There's only one way to gain the experience and thats to push on through the setbacks, Learning from them
I no longer except them as a setback. Just a small hurdles, that can be jumped.
The thermostat seems to have gone on successfully. Temperature gauge sitting as it should and heat coming through the heater. Will check for any leaks but fingers crossed all is good. Just one question though. It was noticeable that the temp had to get to full temp before any heat came through the heater. It wasn't the case with the original. Is it likely that different thermostats let coolant through at different temperatures? Thanks again for all the help on this.
keep an eye on it, especially coolant levels
I suspect some air has entered the heat matrix, they usually self bleed quite quickly
not normally needed but this is the official procedure, ignore the drain screw there isnt one on the Panda
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Aaagh!!! Out for a short 10 min run this morning and a slight drop in coolant level. On further inspection there is a clear leak from where the large hose connects to the thermostat. I can see the drips on a phone video I managed to get.
Cleaned the hose out before fitting so can't see it being due to any muck inside. Perhaps it's just the hose clip that needs tightening further.
I suppose the drip could be from the smaller hose with snap on connector behind the large hose but it's very difficult to get to a position to see that.
Cleaned the hose out before fitting so can't see it being due to any muck inside. Perhaps it's just the hose clip that needs tightening further.
I suppose the drip could be from the smaller hose with snap on connector behind the large hose but it's very difficult to get to a position to see that.
