Panda (Classic) Charmanda(er) The Panda

[AlbertianFiatGuy]

There seems to be a huge, huge clampdown on "insecure" items on cars at mot time, My Cinq went in and got loads of stupid fail points on allegedly insecure items.

Insecure fuel filter (clamped in via all the pipes and a big metal bracket, the whole bracket can be moved about 1mm with force, the filter is secure in it, has passed every mot with that, suddenly it's a fail?)

Insecure horn wiring (purely because it wasn't clamped tight to the mount and scuttle, couldn't rub against anything)

and most hilariously of all, insecure wiring to ecu... because (and this is a cracker), if you root around in the engine bay, you can find the diagnostic plug and extract it and if you pull it out of it's wedged point under other secured wires, you can get the plastic plug to touch the body air filter.

Oh yeah, and an insecure battery, which is strapped in and incapable of falling over even without the strap because it's wedged in tight between the scuttle, inner wing and inlet manifold (official mot guidelines state that the only reason a car should fail with an insecure battery is if it's likely to not remain upright).

Let's just say a lot of angry words were exchanged!

Sounds like our DOT inspectors over here lol

 

[mrcinquecento]

Sounds like our DOT inspectors over here lol

It's crazy how many cars i'm hearing of failing on really stupid "insecure" items. Girl in my work had her car fail at a different garage to the one that failed my cinq for what they deemed a loose/insecure steering wheel... only the wheel itself was perfectly fine, it was the horn button that had play in it!

Not at all surprised to hear about the spare wheel one tbh, They are really going to town on the "insecure" things. Thing is with the spare wheel, what does the muppet of a tester think it's going to do? run off and join the circus? it's in the engine bay, it can't tip over to get anywhere because of the bonnet, it's way too big to fit down any gaps to touch anything hot like the exhaust manifold, It's not sharp so it can't cut any wires or pipes and the fact it's rubber where it could touch anything means it's going to have a super tough job to chaff through anything before anything else goes through the tyre first! It's just not a safety issue and never will be.

 

[Didge3]

Dropped her off today to get the work done, said it might be ready by tomorrow.
Got a call this afternoon, as suspected, downpipe is absolutely knackered despite my changing of the gasket and needs to be replaced, ordered a new part but won't get it until Saturday, car will be ready by Monday...

 

[Didge3]

Guess who has a brand new MOT?

At last shes back on the road, I forgot how quiet she is without any blows in the exhaust, downpipe replaced and stretched for a new backbox too since it was awfully rusty, so I'm basically skint but who cares!
I'm thrilled :slayer:

 

[blu73]

congrats. i hope you had enough left for some petrol!!

 

[homeward]

Guess who has a brand new MOT?

Brilliant news! :woot:

 

[Didge3]

Right I really need a new aerial, for now I can just plug my phone into the headunit but occasionally I like to just stick the radio on. Ricambo have 1 left but its £23 which is a bit much for some plastic and a metal stick.
I'm tempted to fix mine but don't know where I could buy the right cable to solder back onto my current aerial....

 

[VmanC]

Right I really need a new aerial, for now I can just plug my phone into the headunit but occasionally I like to just stick the radio on. Ricambo have 1 left but its £23 which is a bit much for some plastic and a metal stick.
I'm tempted to fix mine but don't know where I could buy the right cable to solder back onto my current aerial....

B&Q?

Just caught up with the last month on this thread, good to see she's legal again. Look forward to seeing you both at MITCAR!

 

[Didge3]

Got some miles under her belt, already transported a bike even
Didn't realise the garage replaced the entire exhaust until I looked underneath, manifold back is all brand new and shiney £140 fitted
Annoyingly I think its knocking on something so I'll take it back, got a 2 year warranty with exhaust so no bother, only happens over speed bumps and under acceleration at low speed.

 

[Didge3]

Drove her at night, both dash lights behind the clock are out... So seeing how fast you're going or how much fuel you have is virtually impossible....
Anyone know where I can buy dash bulbs? Are they just like a specific type that lots of cars use? Can I get orange to match my switches

Also this is going to sound like a stupid question, how would I go about changing the headlight bulbs? I mean, I've looked and there's an assortment of screws to undo on the back of each unit but which ones do I want to undo, I don't want to accidentally loosen the reflector or something
Nearside also looks difficult to do because washer bottle is entirely in the way... Help?

 

[homeward]

Also this is going to sound like a stupid question, how would I go about changing the headlight bulbs? I mean, I've looked and there's an assortment of screws to undo on the back of each unit but which ones do I want to undo, I don't want to accidentally loosen the reflector or something
Nearside also looks difficult to do because washer bottle is entirely in the way... Help?

Can't help with the dash bulbs -- but the headlights are a lot easier than you think! Just unplug the connector at the back of the circular rubber cover (which you should then be able to remove), and Bob's your uncle! Make sure you get the right fitting bases for the headlamp bulbs, though -- they're H4 P45t, I seem to remember... -- and fit some nice upgraded 60/55w ones, whilst you're there. (I swear by Ring RU12 halogen ones.)

 

[Most Easterly Pandas]

Also this is going to sound like a stupid question, how would I go about changing the headlight bulbs? I mean, I've looked and there's an assortment of screws to undo on the back of each unit but which ones do I want to undo, I don't want to accidentally loosen the reflector or something
Nearside also looks difficult to do because washer bottle is entirely in the way... Help?

You shouldn't need to be undoing any screws

 

[panda panda]

dash bulbs off of ebay or motor factors standard little blighters, fiddly and available in all colours of the rainbow!

 

[Didge3]

I'm doing an oil change and general service before it gets too cold. I haven't touched the sump plug since about last August, how hard is it going to be to get off? Do they tend to be a pain? Last year is was fine but I believe the oil had only been changed about 4 months prior....

 

[panda1408]

Shouldn't be any issue unless it was majorly over tightened last time

 

[onemanmade]

I'm doing an oil change and general service before it gets too cold. I haven't touched the sump plug since about last August, how hard is it going to be to get off? Do they tend to be a pain? Last year is was fine but I believe the oil had only been changed about 4 months prior....

I changed the Sisley's oil last month, it hadn't been changed since at least 2009, and had been put on very tight. I managed to do it by using a socket wrench on it, and got into the rowing position using the front wheel as leverage to put my feet against and it came, so I reckon yours will be ok as long as it wasn't put on really tightly before, but the above is a really good way to apply as much force as possible to it.

 

[blu73]

Shouldn't be any issue unless it was majorly over tightened last time

:yeahthat:

 

[Didge3]

I changed the Sisley's oil last month, it hadn't been changed since at least 2009, and had been put on very tight. I managed to do it by using a socket wrench on it, and got into the rowing position using the front wheel as leverage to put my feet against and it came, so I reckon yours will be ok as long as it wasn't put on really tightly before, but the above is a really good way to apply as much force as possible to it.

Thanks, what with Char' being quite a lot lower than a 4x4 I have to have her fairly up in the air to get underneath, so I worry about using to much force and knocking her off the stands....

 

[onemanmade]

Thanks, what with Char' being quite a lot lower than a 4x4 I have to have her fairly up in the air to get underneath, so I worry about using to much force and knocking her off the stands....

Having had a lowered Citroen C2 GT, when I did oil changes on that I had wooden blocks which I drove the front wheels up onto, they were only about 2 1/2 to 3 inches thick and had an incline planed into the end so you could drive up onto them like little tiny ramps, that creates the space you need, and my C2 was slammed. Chock the rear wheels obviously and providing you are safely on the wooden blocks in gear with the handbrake on you will have no problems I am sure.

If you dont have wooden blocks to drive up onto just try putting your socket wrench onto it (with the wheels chocked etc obviously) and providing you can get a draining pan under there you will probably find you are able to do it, if you arent comfortable with using the stands I would advise not using them at all really and just working with the car at its normal height. As I said my C2 was slammed and it was possible.

Whatever method you use just make sure safety is paramount.

 

[blu73]

you should get some ramps although it will be fine on stands i promise.. But you want the front up in the air a bit at least as teh drain is at the back of the sump on cars for exactly that reason, when its lifted at the front all the oil goes to the rear of the sump...

Bricks also serves as good ramps i find if you have a few kicking about, up on one brick each side then up onto 2 bricks high. Ramps really are a brilliant invention though!!!! The simple things are always the best things