What's the yellow thing's on the vacuum line (I think) going to the centre of the inlet manifoldAn air leak behind the throttle valve will often cause the engine to rev at tickover. The idle control valve might try to compensate with stalling in town or clunky gearshifts.
The 1.4 100HP breather pipe looks much like this
This shows the 100HP engine with standard filter box removed. Ignore the pod filter which probably reduces power as the standard intake sucks cold air. You can see the breather hose (also taped up).
General Catch can
- Thread starter The Panda Nut
- Start date
Currently reading:
General Catch can
I'm wondering too. might just be supports. I see they've got cable ties running through them?
looks like foam to stop it chaffing
Have to admit I just leave mine. After 200K miles there is some flat stops but nowhere near enough to cause a leak
Have to admit I just leave mine. After 200K miles there is some flat stops but nowhere near enough to cause a leak
Think you could be right. They look very professional though don't they, not just cut off an old bit of stuff he had lying about?
yes except they are yellow
seen similar somewhere for electrical wiring
possibly a competition car
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2009
- Messages
- 19,910
- Points
- 3,957
The yellow blocks are not Fiat standard. His pod filter sucks warm air from behind the radiator so his performance will be reduced compared to the standard air intake which breathes through the front grille.
remember where I seen them before. In a washing machine
Ah, the great "quality" after market air filter question. Having been interested in motor sport all my life and appreciating a "nice sounding" motor, I've looked at these, often very expensive, alternative filters many times. Here's a very interesting video which largely sums up what I've found - pay attention to the bit about "oiled" elements by the way: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PAIxeQUSg-Q
My conclusion? Well, all the cars I look after are running around with paper filters and standard inlet setups. I really do believe it's only worth spending the cash if you are very considerably modifying your engine so it gulps a lot more air than the standard setup - and then, to gain maximum, benefit you really must remap on a dyno because the airflow is going to be very different to that with the standard inlet tract in place. On the other hand, by all means do it if you just want the "bling" and noise but bear in mind the warning about MAF sensors with oiled elements. Also bear in mind that fitting a very free flowing filter and inlet piping may "mess with" calibration to such an extent that you could actually suffer a slight reduction in power - you probably won't detect this on the road, through the seat of your pants, and the gutsy sounding intake noises will tend to decieve you too!
Aye Jock, it’s called the placebo effect. It’s pretty much known that after market filter set ups are not better than the OE. You’ve more or less said it all, so my input will be kept short. When I purchased my Coupe fourteen years ago it came with a double foam mushroom filter in the boot. I fitted it just to see the outcome, sounded amazing but it did indeed mess with things and had a bad flat spot.
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2009
- Messages
- 19,910
- Points
- 3,957
The power gains are almost always minimal even on tuned engines. But sticking the thing behind the radiator does enough that even a Fiat 1.2/60 will notice.
By the way David Vizard (the mini tuning and gas flow bench specialist) tested the K&N filters on Minis and US stock car racers. He got no measurable power loss and filter efficiency improved over time. He explains it all in one of his mini tuning videos. You'd need to engage engine geek mode to find it.
Edit - The captions say it's here "4:25 Air filters are good/how K&N filters work"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ow5cGV7bXCw
Jock will be absorbed for hours.
Me too TBH.
By the way David Vizard (the mini tuning and gas flow bench specialist) tested the K&N filters on Minis and US stock car racers. He got no measurable power loss and filter efficiency improved over time. He explains it all in one of his mini tuning videos. You'd need to engage engine geek mode to find it.
Edit - The captions say it's here "4:25 Air filters are good/how K&N filters work"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ow5cGV7bXCw
Jock will be absorbed for hours.
Me too TBH.
Last edited:
David Vizard? A veritable deity in my book! His work on the A series is legendary.
I've read a lot of Vizard's stuff - quite a few years ago now, especially when I had my Cooper S (then I bought a Downton fast road conversion for it - Sorry David) but I've never seen this video before and I just love all that stuff about the K&Ns. If I was building an all out, high revving, performance engine I'd very definitely be thinking about one of these. But, for an everyday, or even just a "fast road" engine I'd rather use a paper filter, change it regularly and spend the money saved on something for the engine. I wonder too how many people actually do a good job of properly cleaning their K&N once the initial novelty wears off?
Going to settle down to view the rest of the video now whilst Mrs J is watching Escape to the Country.
Going to settle down to view the rest of the video now whilst Mrs J is watching Escape to the Country.
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2009
- Messages
- 19,910
- Points
- 3,957
A K&N might make sense to replace the paper element but today's cars have to compete with other brands so they cant skimp on things like airflow. The days are long gone where every model gets the same air filter box because that's the only one purchasing dept will pay for.
I love DV's stuff. I prepped a 1275 head for my MG Midget but ended up selling the car. Brother put it on his Metro and wow it flew. Standard cam and carb with standard valves, but what a difference! Bronze valve guides were simply tapered to a 1mm flat on the end. DV's gas flow tests showed no need to make them bullet shape.
I love DV's stuff. I prepped a 1275 head for my MG Midget but ended up selling the car. Brother put it on his Metro and wow it flew. Standard cam and carb with standard valves, but what a difference! Bronze valve guides were simply tapered to a 1mm flat on the end. DV's gas flow tests showed no need to make them bullet shape.
OP
OP
The Panda Nut
Nutty about Pandas Infected by Panda virus and OPD
OP
OP
The Panda Nut
Nutty about Pandas Infected by Panda virus and OPD
Water collection in the summer is minimal to nothing, just a small amount of sludge in weeks and weeks. TA is still producing great globs of sludge and I must find out if I can put a catch can on that. The breather is so buried that I doubt I will ever find the time to look. Its got another 3 years of warrnaty so if it screws up Stelfartis can pay!
Mike1alike
Established member
So... if the water comes as a combustion result, how come "Water collection in the summer is minimal to nothing"? I can't see an explanation. Also, how does so much of it gets inside de oil system? It shouldn't. There are the piston rings and also the oil itself (on the cylinders walls) that should stop the water getting into the system. The combustion resulted water should all go out to exhaust.
I think the source of it is something else. Might be atmospheric water getting in through the dipstick channel. The dipstick has an oring on top, maybe to also prevent water getting in.
I think the source of it is something else. Might be atmospheric water getting in through the dipstick channel. The dipstick has an oring on top, maybe to also prevent water getting in.
Condensation. Cold air can not contain much water.
gr J
gr J
You can not stop water getting in, it's in the air
Water condensation
What's happening on your windscreen is happening inside the block, but at a higher temperature differential
Mike1alike
Established member
In the air, alright. But I can't see how is it supposed to get inside the lubrication system. The intake air that goes in goes inside the combustion chambers where is no chance for it to condense due to high pressure, high temperature and short time it's kept in before it's driven out to exhaust. The only possible entry point I can see is the one I've mentioned above, the dipstick channel and if you put a new oring there it should keep it under control. Otherwise, it is a sealed system, the water shouldn't get inside the block and I'd say for sure it cannot get in by osmosis, can it?!
Also, the oil cap has an oring (or seal) but I'm thinking everybody has that in good condition, otherwise oil is spilled out there during engine functioning.
Also, the oil cap has an oring (or seal) but I'm thinking everybody has that in good condition, otherwise oil is spilled out there during engine functioning.
It's in the air
air everywhere
Under the valve cover
Above the oil in the sump
It just condenses out
Just like on the outside of a cold drink
It's normal for mayo to form
If everything is working correctly it causes no problems, unless the car is regularly only driven on very very short journeys
Last edited:
