Technical Boot Open Warning

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Technical Boot Open Warning

LyndonEdwards

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Hi Guys. Hope everyone is well :)

My wife has told me that her 2013 4x4 has started flashing 9 times when she is locking it and the 'Boot Open' warning is flashing up. I have WD40d the mechanism and the boot seems to be closing securely and is locking. Is this a faulty locking mechanism? Is the sensor built into it? Cheers
 
Eh up,

I’m sure there a little microprocessor ne’er or in the locking handle that plays up🤬

I had this I’m sure, stripped it, cleaned , used silicone spray and sorted.

HTH
 
I have had to clean the handle thoroughly to allow this switch to operate properly. This required removal of the entire boot lock, handlr and the black trim panel to allow access to the rear, Its worked for a few years on our 169 Panda but needed doing again this month. Very fine dust seemed to be causing the handle to stick preventing it returning after use. However I dint think this can have an effect of the battery draining. Removing the wires from the loch requires pressing a tab down on the big wire. The smaller connector is slightly different but easier to see whats needed to disconnect it. At least there is no adjustment needed when bolting in a new lock. You will not need to disconnect the lock operating rod at the lock end and can twist the lock to disconnect this at the lock end. A little fiddly bur OK if you take your time. Good luck.
 
Just to be clear, the handle and everything else works fine. The car locks, unlocks normally and the boot closes and opens normally both from the handle and the key button. Its the car that is saying that the boot is open when it isnt. Is this microswitch in the actual locking mechanism or in the handle part? Thanks
 

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Just to be clear, the handle and everything else works fine. The car locks, unlocks normally and the boot closes and opens normally both from the handle and the key button. Its the car that is saying that the boot is open when it isnt. Is this microswitch in the actual locking mechanism or in the handle part? Thanks
I've a TA 4x4 2013. Just to be clear (by way of a disclaimer!) I haven't direct experience of this problem but the boot opens from the outside via a "button" under the tactile rubber in the plastic moulding that forms the exterior handle; this is where I would expect to see the switch.

Your picture shows the mechanical lock mechanism if you didn't disconnect any cables from this then there's nothing electrical to fail in there (to state the bleeding obvious!). Does the remote operate the boot lock solenoid or indeed open the boot (mine pops it open but I almost always have to use the external button again to open it properly)? Is there some kind of position sensor in the lock solenoid that is not functioning and confusing the body computer? Again, no specific experience with the Panda but there's a possibility that the wiring harness has failed where it flexes as the boot lid opens, this I would see as less likely?

I would also be looking at the remote to check that the boot open button is not shorting and opening the boot all the time (do you have two remotes, does the issue occur with both?) or is just finger trouble on the remote?
 
I've a TA 4x4 2013. Just to be clear (by way of a disclaimer!) I haven't direct experience of this problem but the boot opens from the outside via a "button" under the tactile rubber in the plastic moulding that forms the exterior handle; this is where I would expect to see the switch.

Your picture shows the mechanical lock mechanism if you didn't disconnect any cables from this then there's nothing electrical to fail in there (to state the bleeding obvious!). Does the remote operate the boot lock solenoid or indeed open the boot (mine pops it open but I almost always have to use the external button again to open it properly)? Is there some kind of position sensor in the lock solenoid that is not functioning and confusing the body computer? Again, no specific experience with the Panda but there's a possibility that the wiring harness has failed where it flexes as the boot lid opens, this I would see as less likely?

I would also be looking at the remote to check that the boot open button is not shorting and opening the boot all the time (do you have two remotes, does the issue occur with both?) or is just finger trouble on the remote?
The boot closes and opens normally both on the key button and the handle. If the dash didnt say 'boot open' you wouldnt know there was an issue. Seems like a dodgy sensor but i want to know where that sensor is located. The one that sends the 'boot open' message to the car.
 
The boot closes and opens normally both on the key button and the handle. If the dash didnt say 'boot open' you wouldnt know there was an issue. Seems like a dodgy sensor but i want to know where that sensor is located. The one that sends the 'boot open' message to the car.
Do you have an internal boot light? There will be others more knowledgable on here, but I'm wondering if that runs off a different circuit? I don't have access to my car at the moment to have a look.
 
Do you have an internal boot light? There will be others more knowledgable on here, but I'm wondering if that runs off a different circuit? I don't have access to my car at the moment to have a look.
Yes and the light comes on when the boot is open. Not sure if it stays on when its shut. I will check and see. Do you know where the sensor is located? Does anyone know?
 
There’s three micro switches

Two In the latch
1 Switch the boot light off if fitted
2 Switch off the dash warning

One in the handle
Request to open the hatch

I can’t tell you which one is faulty
You would have to get an ohm meter on them, if you can’t figure it out

It “sounds” like the latch

In the pre 2012 you have to be very careful to order the correct part. Different trim levels use different parts they work differently but look identical
 
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There’s three micro switches

Two In the latch
1 Switch the boot light off if fitted
2 Switch off the dash warning

One in the handle
Request to open the hatch

I can’t tell you which one is faulty
You would have to get an ohm meter on them, if you can’t figure it out

In the pre 2012 you have to be very careful to order the correct part. Different trim levels use different parts they work differently but look identical
Excellent. That answers the question. Car is a 2013 4x4. I have ordered a replacement latch so hopefully that will solve it :)
 
Excellent. That answers the question. Car is a 2013 4x4. I have ordered a replacement latch so hopefully that will solve it :)
Koalar is correct. Ignore any refs to the microswitch on the handle in the various replies above - this the switch that opens the boot and can play up (This was more of an issue with the older model - pre 2012 – where the design tended to clog with dirt and the pivot would rust, both tending to make the switch fail - sometimes you couldn't open it and other times the boot would open itself owing to this. It was redesigned for the post 2012 car).

Yes, there are additional switches inside the latch itself that confirm the boot is shut and that operate the boot light. If the switch that says 'not shut' hasn't opted properly, the car will flash (same as if a side door is only 'half shut'). If a door is not shut properly, the car will flash the lights many times and not lock, but if its the boot not fully closed, the car *does* lock correctly even when the lights flash. (Fold the rear seat down for and easy way to see if the boot light is going off. It will always turn itself off after about 5 minutes anyway as the computer shuts it down. Same with the interior light - it will turn off with the door open if left open for long enough)

You might also check that the metal 'hoop' that the latch locks onto (on the boot cill) is still tightly screwed down and in place correctly - I guess if that's misaligned (or maybe something's caught in it) that may prevent the latch from fully operating both switches as well.
 
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Koalar is correct. Ignore any refs to the microswitch on the handle in the various replies above - this the switch that opens the boot and can play up (This was more of an issue with the older model - pre 2012 – where the design tended to clog with dirt and the pivot would rust, both tending to make the switch fail - sometimes you couldn't open it and other times the boot would open itself owing to this. It was redesigned for the post 2012 car).

Yes, there are additional switches inside the latch itself that confirm the boot is shut and that operate the boot light. (Fold the rear seat down for and easy way to see if the boot light is going off. It will always turn itself off after about 5 minutes anyway as the computer shuts it down (same with the interior light - it will turn off with the door open if left open for long enough)

You might also check that the metal 'hoop' that the latch locks onto (on the boot cill) is still tightly screwed down and in place correctly - I guess if that's misaligned (or maybe something's caught in it) that may prevent the latch from fully operating both switches as well.
Hi Herts. Many thanks for that. very helpful indeed. First thing i tried was the metal hoop in all posisitions to see if it made any difference but nothing. I suspect its the microswitch in the latch. This new one will prove or disprove that when it arrives i guess :)
 
Hi Herts. Many thanks for that. very helpful indeed. First thing i tried was the metal hoop in all posisitions to see if it made any difference but nothing. I suspect its the microswitch in the latch. This new one will prove or disprove that when it arrives i guess :)
Actually you can prove this with the boot open! If you look at how the latch works, it's basically a U-shaped plastic-covered metal part which pivots around the hoop to lock. With the boot open, you can push the U-shaped part in the lock round with a screwdriver. If pushed part way, the boot light light will stay on. Pushed all the way it will go off -- and so should the 'boot open' light. Maybe try pushing it a bit harder and have someone else try locking the car as you do it - this might show the switch to be at fault. It may even have frozen (if it's as cold where you are - minus 8 here last night and not able zero all day!)
 
Actually you can prove this with the boot open! If you look at how the latch works, it's basically a U-shaped plastic-covered metal part which pivots around the hoop to lock. With the boot open, you can push the U-shaped part in the lock round with a screwdriver. If pushed part way, the boot light light will stay on. Pushed all teh way it will go off -- and so should the 'boot open' light. Maybe try pushing it a bit harder and have someone else try locking the car as you do it - this might show the switch to be at fault. It may even have frozen (if it's as cold where you are - minus 8 here last night and not able zero all day!)
I tried that and the warning stayed on. It is really looking like the switch in the mechanism :) It is bloody freezing, as you say. I am in the Staffs Moorlands. Its always cold up here. Hahaha
 
I tried that and the warning stayed on. It is really looking like the switch in the mechanism :) It is bloody freezing, as you say. I am in the Staffs Moorlands. Its always cold up here. Hahaha
One very last thought - and in a way I hope its not this... The wires to the latch, wiper, heated screen and number plate lights all pass through the flexible rubber tubes near the hinges of the boot. If the wire in there to the switch has broken (by being flexed/twisted when opening the boot in the cold), that may cause an issue too.Lets hope not - your new latch will tell you :)
 
@LyndonEdwards Just because I can... here's the wiring diagram for the boot latch. The red box (drawn by the software, not me) is the latch unit and shows there are four wires connected to it. The Violet wire operates the motor that opens the boot, the white & yellow one connects to the boot light and the white & grey one to the switch which confirms the boot is fully closed. Black is the earth. The unit marked E34 is the body computer – the gubbins that operates just about every part of the car (and is the unit the interior fuse are mounted in at the back of the glovebox). O4 is a connector 'somewhere in the car', O105 is the boot light unit itself. O166 is the number plate lights but I think is also showing the microswitch that opens the boot.

The point about all this is it suggested there's only one switch inside the latch, but that it needs to fully move to both ends of its travel to keep things happy.

1671126100449.png
 
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