General Anti rust measures

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General Anti rust measures

ReadySteady98

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Hi everyone just have a quick question regarding preventing rust and what measures to take. Luckily my panda has no rust on the bodywork / wheel arches. Was looking on Amazon and bought this stuff yesterday. Was wondering if anyone has used this ?

Is it safe to spray under the car and around the wheel arches although it’s showing flammable?
 

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I'm sure there will be different opinions on the 'best' rustproofing treatment as people have personal preferences. I generally prefer Dinitrol products as I find them effective and easy to use but that is just my opinion! I'm sure this Jenolite product will be fine, particularly as you are using it as a protective shield rather than trying to treat serious rust. Many of these aerosol products will carry a warning about being flammable but should be no problem if you avoid treating anything hot or near a naked flame.
 
Lanoguard seems to be the latest idea. It's sheep's wool wax with a solvent for spraying. If there's any rust under the paint that has to be fully stripped back and exposed. Treatments like this will fully protect the metal. Waxoyl used to be the favourite but I've not been impressed. Over time, dries up and shrinks away from the surface its supposed to be protecting.
 
The idea is to keep oxygen away from the metal

I don’t think it matters to much what you use

You got to remove any loose paint or rust otherwise when it fails of oxygen can get in.


Probably worth getting an under car wash and let it dry first to remove any salt rather than sealing it in
 
Obviously you dont want it wet with sea water but salt is only a problem when air can get to the metal. De-watering products that leave a continuous oily layer will prevent corrosion even on surface rusted metal. Flaking rust or failing paint will leave open areas for corrosion to continue so must be fully removed before the area is treated. Rust converters are good, but they can't do much with thick rust or where paint has not been cleaned off. Rust creeps under the edges of paint. Oily surface treatments soak under rust particles and stop existing rust continuing. Top them up annually to catch flaking areas.

I was surprised at the effect of chainsaw bar oil thinned with white spirit. Solvent thinners would also work but risk overspray paint damage. I treated some rusty metal and left it out to weather. The oil had gelled like a varnish but remained soft. I cleaned off 1/2 of the area and left it another 6 months. The original surface was untouched. but the cleaned off area was still quite bright with minimal corrosion. It should have rusted up badly but really didn't. It shows how important it is to properly clean metal before priming and painting. It also showed how an oily layer keeps the elements off the raw metal.

There are examples on You Tube where people have used phosphoric acid followed by epoxy primers inside box sections. It's all very well but any rust in spot welded seams will not be deal with. The acid treatment followed by the likes of Lanoguard or even thinned chain saw oil are more likely to soak into the seams and stop the corrosion. Epoxy primers hide the carnage going on beneath. Waxoyl used to be the "go to", but it's too viscous to run into seams and it does dry out. Who wants to be doing that job every year?
 
I've always used for many years a mixture of paraffin / engine oil mix in spray form on all my cars, using a fire extinguisher type pump up vessel similar to a garden spray. Making sure to keep away from brake hoses / bushes etc whilst applying.
 
I've always used for many years a mixture of paraffin / engine oil mix in spray form on all my cars, using a fire extinguisher type pump up vessel similar to a garden spray. Making sure to keep away from brake hoses / bushes etc whilst applying.
Chain saw bar oil is environmentally safe and does the job very well for minimal money. White spirit is less "nice" but we are not pouring it down the road and it evaporates leaving a protective sticky layer.
 
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