Technical 2013 Fiorino 1.3 Diesel Glow Plug Removal

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Technical 2013 Fiorino 1.3 Diesel Glow Plug Removal

manicstereo

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Does anyone have a video or detailed guide for removing glow plugs in the 2013 Fiorino 1.3 Multijet engines?
 
Does anyone have a video or detailed guide for removing glow plugs in the 2013 Fiorino 1.3 Multijet engines?
Take it to the garage and let them do it.

A cop out I know but these are so prone to snapping off that at least if they snap off at a garage it’s then their problem to sort it out, if they snap off when you’re working on it at home then you can be in for a world of pain
 
Take it to the garage and let them do it.

A cop out I know but these are so prone to snapping off that at least if they snap off at a garage it’s then their problem to sort it out, if they snap off when you’re working on it at home then you can be in for a world of pain
yeh bit worried about them snapping. i did get a kit for broken glow plugs but access would be the issue to removing them if they snap.
 
Pretty sure it's been well covered in the Panda section 🙂

Whats the issue?

Poor starting, or just the flashing symbol?

Worth doing diagnostic work if its Just a flashing light 😉
i'll have a look.
flashing light, difficulty starting in cold weather, bit smoky as well.
it did have faults for no 2 and 3 glow plug and they have never been changed.
 
either way i want to replace them anyway as it's over ten years old and never been done
The Risk is of having too much carbon on the innards of the combustion chamber,

Makes the the plug get TIGHTER on its way out.. Rather than looser

I had a 1248 motor with NO HEAT

it turns out a plug had failed, taking out the massive supply fuse

The plugs were probably factory fit

People commented quite how badly corroded the outers were 😞

I rehearsed the removal, sprayed the visible parts regularly

"feeding" the threads with fluid when just parked, so engine heat helped work the fluid in

Then, after a 2 hour journey

Got the 2 easiest access plugs removed

Spray, cooling the plug to "shrink it", 😉

Apply torque, see if it creeps

If it starts to move, another spray, then back and forth (like tapping a thread)

Obviously this takes time..

I could remove ducting, etc
in 2 minutes with practice

Then had @5 minutes work time

As the motor cooled

2 working plugs made quite a difference, 👍

the other 2 waited until the height of summer (and were much more difficult to extract)


All good after though, 😊

BUT torquing them back in.. ,
one hole was obviously still full of carbon, as getting a gas-tight seat was something that took several attempts🤔

Again.. Got it HOT

backed out plug a couple of turns, then reseated

On one plug I got an "extra" half a turn, and was then seated, obviously shifted the offending carbon

I will try and add links 🙂

This great GUIDE, and my links in the comments

 
Last edited:
The Risk is of having too much carbon on the innards of the combustion chamber,

Makes the the plug get TIGHTER on its way out.. Rather than looser

I had a 1248 motor with NO HEAT

it turns out a plug had failed, taking out the massive supply fuse

The plugs were probably factory fit

People commented quite how badly corroded the outers were 😞

I rehearsed the removal, sprayed the visible parts regularly

"feeding" the threads with fluid when just parked, so engine heat helped work the fluid in

Then, after a 2 hour journey

Got the 2 easiest access plugs removed

Spray, cooling the plug to "shrink it", 😉

Apply torque, see if it creeps

If it starts to move, another spray, then back and forth (like tapping a thread)

Obviously this takes time..

I could remove ducting, etc
in 2 minutes with practice

Then had @5 minutes work time

As the motor cooled

2 working plugs made quite a difference, 👍

the other 2 waited until the height of summer (and were much more difficult to extract)


All good after though, 😊

BUT torquing them back in.. ,
one hole was obviously still full of carbon, as getting a gas-tight seat was something that took several attempts🤔

Again.. Got it HOT

backed out plug a couple of turns, then reseated

On one plug I got an "extra" half a turn, and was then seated, obviously shifted the offending carbon

I will try and add links 🙂

This great GUIDE, and my links in the comments

yeh saw that guide before but this was the one with the turbo in front of the plugs will post a pic shortly. it's just more an access issue than removing them
 
The Risk is of having too much carbon on the innards of the combustion chamber,

Makes the the plug get TIGHTER on its way out.. Rather than looser

I had a 1248 motor with NO HEAT

it turns out a plug had failed, taking out the massive supply fuse

The plugs were probably factory fit

People commented quite how badly corroded the outers were 😞

I rehearsed the removal, sprayed the visible parts regularly

"feeding" the threads with fluid when just parked, so engine heat helped work the fluid in

Then, after a 2 hour journey

Got the 2 easiest access plugs removed

Spray, cooling the plug to "shrink it", 😉

Apply torque, see if it creeps

If it starts to move, another spray, then back and forth (like tapping a thread)

Obviously this takes time..

I could remove ducting, etc
in 2 minutes with practice

Then had @5 minutes work time

As the motor cooled

2 working plugs made quite a difference, 👍

the other 2 waited until the height of summer (and were much more difficult to extract)


All good after though, 😊

BUT torquing them back in.. ,
one hole was obviously still full of carbon, as getting a gas-tight seat was something that took several attempts🤔

Again.. Got it HOT

backed out plug a couple of turns, then reseated

On one plug I got an "extra" half a turn, and was then seated, obviously shifted the offending carbon

I will try and add links 🙂

This great GUIDE, and my links in the comments

i already removed the top heatshield from the turbo to get a look in
 

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That's good news, 🙂

got any hints and tips..?
i removed the air filter box, give a bit more access to the heat shield around the turbo. i have different types of glow plug lead pliers so made it easy to remove the leads, if you don't have them probably need a set on long, long noise pliers. none of my glow plug sockets were of any use, a 1/4" ratchet, 9mm socket and a long wobble extension did the job. a small telescopic magnet to remove and sit the plugs in helps a lot. just a matter of find the correct angle through the turbo for no1 and 2 cylinders, 3 and 4 are pretty straight forward.
 
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