Technical 2009 Doblo 1.3 multijet non start

[benchmark51]

Hi, my first post so here's hoping I get it right. I have a 2009 Doblo 1.3 multijet. It has always started from cold first time but on occasions after driving about 5 miles and turning it off, it can be a cow to restart. If I leave it for a minute or two it does restart. The same thing happens when fully warm and I go to the filling station. Put diesel in and then it's a cow again! Same thing, leave it for a minute and then it will restart It has had new filters, glow plugs and oil about a month ago and goes okay normally. About a week ago I had the alternator light come on and saw the temperature rising, luckily I was just about home. No steam or anything and was still running okay when I switched it off. Had a quick look and saw the alt' belt was off. It wasn't snapped but looks like it frayed at the edge and got pulled off by the other belt. I left it until next day, had belts delivered and put them on. Since then it has not started. Cranks over well, but no go. It is a chain driven engine so can it jump a tooth? Can the ECU go wrong? I did notice that If I turn the ignition on then off, then flash the headlamps on, they stay on and F30 is displayed on the dash for 30 secs, flash again and F60 comes up for 30 secs. Keep repeating this and each time the F number increases by 30. All the way up to 180. Anyone know why?

 

[varesecrazy]

Hi

A bit of a tale there..

Sounds like a sensor for the mixture when its halfwarm


But the non.running now:

Is it definitely reading the keychip? Dash key:lock symbol coming on for 5 seconds..?

Im wondering if the flailing belt has tugged a cable.. so its now 'lost'..without thr input of crankrotation.. or temerature..or railpressure

Is yours a DPF engine?

Charlie

 

[algie oo]

Headlights. Main beam headlights are turned on by pulling left stalk within 2 secs of turning key to off. Each further pull adds 30 secs to time. It's called ' follow me home' and is on page 66 of my handbook. Hope the real problem gets sorted.

 

[varesecrazy]

Hi, my first post so here's hoping I get it right.

I did notice that If I turn the ignition on then off, then flash the headlamps on, they stay on and F30 is displayed on the dash for 30 secs, flash again and F60 comes up for 30 secs. Keep repeating this and each time the F number increases by 30. All the way up to 180. Anyone know why?

Thanks for the info algie oo
I have heard of it.. but like the modern sidelight switching.. never used it

 

[benchmark51]

Hi Charlie, thanks for your reply. This van came from France originally and was imported to Bulgaria. Along the way the original key was lost and now operates on a ordinary key. I have to lock it manually. The handbook is in French but I have a PDF handbook in English I got online. I am currently stuck in Bulgaria due to the Covid thing. I know, all a bit of an epic!
Things I have done since non start, replaced an 'iffy' fuel pipe from filter to HP pump for new genuine pipe. Checked around for any damage from the belt, none found. I have fuel at the rail and at the injectors. Couldn't find any reaction from the fuel pressure regulator so replaced it with new genuine Bosch one. Removed and cleaned the cam, crank sensors. The MAP sensor was clogged with black gunge so cleaned with small brush and fuel, blown out with airline. Stuck for ideas now. David

 

[benchmark51]

Thanks for your reply. Now that makes sense now! The handbook I have is in French, but have now got an English one in PDF, online. Wish I could find a workshop one. David

 

[varesecrazy]

Do ypu have provision of a jumpstart..?

Might sound daft.. but if your High Pressure pump is a bit tired.. and revs a little low

It wont reach the required pressure to enable injection..

Those few minutes of zero alternator charge might just have been enough..

Cheap and easy potentially..

Or course removing battery for a charge could also have the effect of a 'reboot'

 

[benchmark51]

Still no luck yet! Things I have done since last posting are as follows. I have bought a new battery but no change except a code came up on my phone via elm 327, insufficient flow at EGR. Had a look at that but all working, solenoid moving and all surprisingly clean. Looked into the manifold and it was very dirty. Full of black greasy gunge, stainless pipe inside blocked. So removed the manifold and cleaned it all out. Washed it out in old diesel and brush, good spray with oven cleaner then power washed, blown out and dried. Now really clean inside. Checked the air inlet pipe and found it clean and secure. Air inlet pipe joint at turbo broken and wrapped with tape, now fixed. Waste gate actuator adjustment seemed wound up too tight? Took it off and found the flap was not closing at all. Backed off the adjustment so it closed and tested the diaphragm with low pressure air and it opened and closed okay. Set it at about 20 psi opening, now all refitted. Had the glow plugs out and all glow okay. Done nothing with the injectors yet Lack of tools to get them out, no compression tester either. I have fuel at the injectors when cracked off. Long read, eh? An interval from football, ha haI looking for ideas now.

 

[chris3234]

I think you need to start getting a good diagnostic system on it now
Look at things like injection system pressure both actually and required if these are too far off each other the car wont attempt to inject any fuel

 

[varesecrazy]

As I said before.. rail pressure needs to hit a certain point before the ECU allows injection

If the battery is tailing off a bit now.. lower cranking revs means low rail pressure

A tow start could get the HP Pump spinning faster

 

[benchmark51]

Yes, this is the way I am thinking now. I have no knowledge of ECU's ect and nothing to measure fuel rail pressure ect. I have a brand new battery and the battery that came with the car so will try the 2, together (both 60ah). Starter motor looks newish too.

Maybe a bit 'off the wall' but could overhead power lines upset the ECU at all? I have power lines into my house about 5 metres directly above the car.

 

[varesecrazy]

As long as the immobiliser is clearing..

Then it would ordinarily be fine

 

[algie oo]

Maybe a bit 'off the wall' but could overhead power lines upset the ECU at all? I have power lines into my house about 5 metres directly above the car.

My dobbie was at indie garage for something, and they reported they could not start it.
They tried on and off for one day. Early morning next day it started. They believe that they receive interference from somewhere sometimes? A Jeep (FGA) previously had done the same to them.

 

[benchmark51]

I have been 'offline' for the past 16 hours and have just seen your reply. Yes I am 'clutching at straws' at the moment, the car has been parked there everyday for the past 16 months and has always started first time in all weathers. I have found quite a bit that wasn't right with the car. Plastic air inlet pipe feeding the turbo was broken (taped up with electrical tape, falling off). Waste gate actuator adjusted tight and stopping the flap from closing at all. Diaphragm okay and working, adjusted it to open at 20psi (guessed that). Surprisingly the EGR valve was pretty clean and solenoid working well. The inlet manifold was full of black gunge and the stainless tube where the exhaust enters the manifold was blocked solid. The MAP sensor also full of gunge. I really can't understand how it ran at all! Beginning to think that the electronics have been 'messed' with to make it run so may be needing a proper diagnostic visit next.

 

[RalphM]

Don't think it will be the power lines, I have seen radio interfere with central locking
and immobiliser but the immobiliser light would stay on.

 

[benchmark51]

Yes I'll pass on anything I find out. Before the car broke down I noticed that if I touched the gearstick and moved it slightly, within the 'free play', I would get a crackle from the radio. Don't know why, haven't looked yet. Must be doing something electrical though.

 

[benchmark51]

Further to my tale of woe, I have the Doblo on a code reader at a local garage and it has come up with a list.


P0401
Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected

P0190
Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Malfunction

P0110
Intake Air Temperature Circuit Malfunction*More details...

P0180
Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit Malfunction

P0340
Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction

P0641
Sensor Reference Voltage A Circuit/Open

P0778
Pressure Control Solenoid B Electrical

P0683
Glow Plug Control Module to PCM Communication Circuit

P0230
Fuel Pump Primary Circuit Malfunction

P0645
A/C Clutch Relay Control Circuit

P0235
Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Malfunction

P2146 Fuel Injector Group A Circuit/Open

Read more at:*https://www.obd-codes.com/p2146
Copyright OBD-Codes.com

Quite shocking at first sight but I'm thinking most of this may be referring to wiring faults or maybe connectors. What do you think?

 

[benchmark51]

Re: 2009 Doblo 1.3 multijet non start - Update.

I have taken the injectors out now. 1 was heavy with carbon so using oven cleaner I cleaned it up nicely. Removed the nozzle and cleaned the inside, needle was cleaned also and had no signs of damage. Filled the nozzle with clean diesel followed with compressed air and had 5 nice even jets showing. Continued with the others with similar results. Didn't touch the other end of the injectors at all, so not to upset any factory settings. Haven't anything to calibrate them with so left it as is.

Using a syringe and a rubber tube, I found the combustion chambers in the piston crowns to be full of diesel! So this could be why it was giving the impression that the timing was advanced? The dipstick reading was way too high also, so fuel in the sump. Drained it all out now. I've routed the fuel pipe from the high pressure pump into a clean container to keep the pump lubricated while I spin it over just a little to get any more out of the sump. Plan is to refill with engine oil and spin it up to pressure ready for a restart(lol). Now to put it back together and see what happens!

 

[benchmark51]

Still no luck yet! I have moved the car now so not near overhead power lines, just in case. I have noticed that the fuel sensor on the left of the rail 'ticks' with the ignition turned on. Sounds like a stopwatch but very quiet. Stops when ignition off. Left it ticking, while I had a cuppa and still ticking 15 minutes later. I live in the southeast of Bulgaria and getting parts and tools can be trying. I am looking for a compression tester, but no luck yet. Would really like a compression test before I take it apart further.

 

[varesecrazy]

Still no luck yet! I have moved the car now so not near overhead power lines, just in case. I have noticed that the fuel sensor on the left of the rail 'ticks' with the ignition turned on. Sounds like a stopwatch but very quiet. Stops when ignition off. Left it ticking, while I had a cuppa and still ticking 15 minutes later. I live in the southeast of Bulgaria and getting parts and tools can be trying. I am looking for a compression tester, but no luck yet. Would really like a compression test before I take it apart further.

Squirt a small amount of fuel in..

See if it attempts to fire - burn fuel

That will point at spark being present..and a potential fuel supply issue