Tuning 1.2 8v swap

[Huwbishop]

Looking good, not far to go.

If by that little clip on the bottom hose, you just lever the tabs that hold it all together apart with a screwdriver and replace with a jubilee clip. They are kind of a one use thing.

 

[crazySnublz]

I forgot to say, the 4 way connector

 

[blu73]

yours has the all in one pipe, some have a plastic 4 way branch and the 4 hoses are clipped to it rather than it all being one piece. Never worked out if its a model by model difference but all the spi sporting seicento's i've had had the seperate plastic branch - if you get that bit you can make the rest of the system up with just random bits of pipe really, there is another 3 way behind the TB but you can just get a t-piece the right size for that easy enough... Could prob find a 4 way branch the right size if you searched for one but i never have.

 

[crazySnublz]

I have got a 90' t piece that you mentioned for free from the local scrappy may have to have another venture up to see if they have the 4 piece as well.
Also got a bit bored and wrapped my mani and ran out

 

[Huwbishop]

Try a plumbing supply shop. I used Yorkshire fittings when I built mine, although I don't have the 4 way connecter deely you have.

Why do you need to do anything with it for the swap, pipes are all the same aren't they?

Or you could use the 4 way you have, and chop the pipes off. Then get some alloy straight joints from ash hoses online and run you're pipes from there.

I haven't seen a silicone 4 way ever.

 

[Huwbishop]

Just looked at the photo again. I assume it is 28mm top to bottom and 19mm side to side.

Piece of 28mm copper pipe, drill a hole straight through it. Solder two 19mm copper pipes either side and planish a nurle on the end to stop the pipes pushing off. Decent plumber would knock that up in 5 minutes.

Worth a go if all other avenues are fruitless.

 

[mrcinquecento]

If you need a 4 way connector, best bet is the scrappys and hacksaw the pipes off.

I took the lazy option and just imported a brand new set of hoses from Poland a few weeks back.

Looking at the state of that hard coolant pipe, i think i'd be swapping that out too! one bolt under the pipe bend and the whole thing twists out with a jiggle.

Then just undo all the hoses from the 4 way and pull them off the car in one

 

[crazySnublz]

I think it's 32mm top and bottom and 16mm but I know what you mean just from the hose diameters. But the way the hoses feel I wouldn't try chopping and using joiners as they feel rather brittle.
I was more looking for the plastic or alloy 4 way but no one seems to have one that would replace when I did a quick search.
Might try the plumber option if none are at the scrappy.
I would choose the lazy option but seeing as I have a week to get everything I need, I can't
If by hard pipe you mean the metal coolant pipe, it's being replaced by one that has been cleaned of rust and painted.

 

[mrcinquecento]

Yeah that's the one, was just saying that because with the work going in it made no sense to put the old hard pipe back on and risk that deciding to rust through.

If you are reusing an old one that has been cleaned up, remember to replace the o-ring on the water pump side of it!

The joiners on the 4 way pipe are sturdier than you think, but yours has that weird, random all in one type rather than the one with the plastic branch and compress fit pipes (no idea why Fiat seemed to change between the 2 randomly then back, guess they changed suppliers or something). worth seeking one of those sets out.

To be fair, the delivery from Poland (unto.pl) i got was much quicker than expected (4 days!) BUT.... postage is expensive, i was ordering loads of things i couldn't get in the UK so it was very worthwhile for me, but if i had just been ordering one or 2 things it wouldn't have been worth it.

 

[blu73]

jesus, just replace the water rail.. its notorious place to leak as it is let alone after taking it off and re-using one - which as stated above will really need a new seal and it will not be easy to find a suitable seal...

Nice new shiny pipe is not expensive and comes with new seal.
http://www.eurocarcare.net/hose-pipes/ecc55217638-coolant-pipe.html

 

[Lecook]

I've got a 4way bottom rad hose laying around, gimme a pm if you get stuck

 

[crazySnublz]

blu73 thank for the input but I have a new seal from fiat, Lecook cheers for the offer but managed to find one at the scrappy yesterday.
Well, the engines in and bolted together minus water pipes,exhaust manifold and driveshafts. Go to start the engine and nothing, look on the dash and the key light stays on but flickers and the injector light pops on. Under the bonnet the 2 relays by the ecu are ticking like mad. The battery was off but had it off before when I had the head off to do the head gasket, any ideas as I've spent the last hour checking plugs and everything the only thing I can think of is the relays have gone tits up. When I get home I'll hopefully put up a video to give you guys some idea of what I mean

 

[Lecook]

I'd say possibly missed an earth?? There should be one on the inner wing (both sides) one from gearbox to chassis, one on the ecu bracket and one on the coil pack holder

 

[crazySnublz]

Sorry for a lack of a video as I've left the lead in work.
So, after a quick think and a face palm moment later I have come the realisation that I have left 2 earths of the engine, 1 by the coil packs and the other on the gearbox so I'm hoping those could be the problem but won't know till I'm back in work tomorrow.

 

[Lecook]

Most electrical problems with centos are down to bad earth's in my experience... good luck with it

 

[blu73]

relay clicking on and off constantly is almost 100% missing an engine loom earth somewhere.

 

[crazySnublz]

Turns out it was missing both earths, sorted them out, cranked the engine over and slow turning over but was expecting that but still wouldn't fire and injector light staying on. It had decided to pop the fuse for the injector that's behind the battery but after a quick search there were no more huge 20A fuses so decided to use the fan's 30A one just to see if she would start and she did :woot:.
Started putting the hoses on and soon found I had a problem as I decided to be a plum and cut one piece of pipe then a different piece of pipe then discovered I needed the whole piece so just about bodged the system back together. So all it needs is gearbox oil, clutch cable re-attaching, exhaust manifold + modifying to fit, coolant, fuse so hopefully by wednesday she will be driving.

 

[crazySnublz]

Well she drives reasonably well considering she's still learning. Had a set back as I needed 2 cv joints and one they sent was the wrong part in the right box but sorted that out yesterday, modified the cat to fit over the arb then realised the exit pipe was directly under the gear stick box, so more welding and modifying was needed to get the exhaust on.
Got some news on the cam and will be here end of next week apparently (about bloody time) but won't be fitted till I get a vernier pulley, cam cover gasket and till I get my cam cover back from being powder coated Matt/silk black with green flecks ?
Still a few jobs need doing such as;
•Find the oil leak (think its from the oil pressure switch and sump sealer on the T.B side)
•Find the coolant leak (is either head or water pump, either way they were torqued down correctly so will be claimed under warranty with labour costs)
•Fit a flexi pipe in the exhaust somewhere as it is currently one pipe.
•Get a custom exhaust sorted to get the most power out of the new heart.
•Rolling road her after she's been run in.
•Fit a new N/S/F gear box mount
That's it for now I think, the few pictures I did take will be up at some point when I get the lead back from work.
Only thing happening now is to drive her and fill her with fuel.
Bit of a difficult question to answer as everybody has different methods but what would you guys recommend as to running the engine in?

 

[Huwbishop]

Good job, well done there.

As for running in, just take your time. Try not to give it too much throttle, and don't make the engine labour. I was always told to drive like you have a bowl of water in the footwell. Very gentle for 500 miles, then slowly increase up till 1500 miles. After that, all should be bedded in and up to spec. Keep an eye on you're levels, and temperatures.
Many will tell you that you don't need to run engines in, because modern oils and machining is so good. Load of balls, engines still have pistons and bearings. The technology is the same, so the procedures for running in are the same.

In the end you will have a nice tight engine, with plenty of poke that will serve you for years.

Defiantly get a flexi pipe sorted. You don't want to end up with stress fractures on that new mani. Have you sorted the small bracket near the gearbox?

Cam cover sounds cool, get some pics up when it's done.
Good news on the cam, I'll have to come and have a looksy when she is all done, one of the things on my to do list is the top end. As 866 cams are so rare, I may speak to davies bearings, to see if they can re profile an original for me.

Also need to speak to sparky5 about doing me a throttle body.

You should have a quick little car there when set up on the rr, what are you aiming for 75-80hp?

 

[crazySnublz]

Cheers,
Ye I wasn't planning on opening the throttle for a while as she's still learning and still ain't running right and when changing gear with the lightened flywheel she almost stalls.
I'm hoping for 80ish but depending on funds I may get a piggy back to map it properly and aim higher again.
Certainly will get pictures up when they turn up
Definitely get in contact with sparky5 great guy and great quality throttle body