Technical '06 Panda crank sensor issue.....

[RDM1]

Oh and one more thing is when i jumped in the car and opened the ignition to diagnose it i found a lot of unusual lights turns out i left the ECU plug we were testing disconnected because i was running away from the rain so I closed the ignition connected it before running the diagnosis again as you saw in the video where it started

 

[koalar]

Oh and one more thing is when i jumped in the car and opened the ignition to diagnose it i found a lot of unusual lights turns out i left the ECU plug we were testing disconnected because i was running away from the rain so I closed the ignition connected it before running the diagnosis again as you saw in the video where it started

Dash light going out are a sign of a power or ground problem

Same with the battery light in the original video

The reference voltages aren't right

Being intermittent you can only test when it's failing

The car will not start with some codes present, some it does not care about, some self clear, some don"t.

Looking at your data some things are wrong

There's only one knock sensor

The atmospheric pressure is wrong unless you are on top of a mountain

There's only one pressure sensor it's in the inlet manifold and it does not alter when the car is started

Fairly sure it's meanless there normally more than one data point on a generic reader

Your connecting to a pre 2007 model which is fairly different,


Having said all that fix the bit we can see

The battery light going out while cranking

Battery terminals
Starter to alternator cable
Battery to chassis ground
Chassis ground to gearbox
Battery
Positive to starter
Connector next to the battery tray

Seeing as the voltage drop to the engine was 0.3V and it should be under 0.2V, I would start here, 0.3V will not stop the car running though

Try wiggling to cable while doing the voltage drop test

 

[RDM1]

So you mean that i must start with checking the alternator and starter? Because the battery is in good charge and properly connected without being loose or anything

 

[RDM1]

And about connecting to pre 2007 the Ancel's X5 system is like that because if you go to 2012 and later my model doesn't show up and by the way if someone is using this system be cautious as it is infected with a lot of malicious files and a trojan in the ford maker.exe along with all the others being malicious so be cautious

 

[RDM1]

Oh and i live at 1300m altitude if that clears the atmospheric pressure question

 

[RDM1]

And forgot to ask while doing the voltage drop test which cable or cables do you want me to wiggle?

 

[koalar]

Over 70%, you have an issue with the wiring I listed above you cant tell just by looking at the wiring

You need to do a voltage drop test while it's failing

It's intermitant

You can't tell it failed unless the codes are properly cleared before each turn of the key

Or the battery check light goes out

I'd start with the gearbox stap

They normally measure 0.1V
It should measure under 0.2V
Yours was 0.3V

0.3V will not cause a problem but the battery terminal, gearbox ring terminal needs cleaning or some of the braid has broken Being intermittent you should try and replicate the full fault condition by wiggling the cable while under load and measuring the voltage

You find the point of high resitance by moving the test leads

Battery terminal to cable
Battery terminal to bolt on gearbox and so on

 

[koalar]

And forgot to ask while doing the voltage drop test which cable or cables do you want me to wiggle?

The cable under test I'd start with the gearbox strap

 

[RDM1]

The cable under test I'd start with the gearbox strap

Gearbox to chassis?

 

[RDM1]

Because this one was cut from the mechanic that the previous owner used to take it to when i got the car i properly tightened it firmly to the chassis where it was cut using a bolt and a large washer to have it covering as much as possible to the chassis

 

[RDM1]

Do you think i should put an eye terminal on it?

 

[MrMagoo]

Have you connected a jump lead between the battery negative terminal and the engine block to rule out an iffy chassis earth?

 

[RDM1]

Alright will do it if the weather is good tomorrow because it's gonna get messy because the tps of the gearbox keeps leaking like any other fiat panda and the o ring seal is brand new aswell so gonna get smudged with the oil anyway will keep you updated as soon as i get the result will make sure of the alternator and starter wirings if there's something loose in them while at it

 

[RDM1]

Have you connected a jump lead between the battery negative terminal and the engine block to rule out an iffy chassis earth?

Didn't try it I'll try that aswell

 

[koalar]

Well done in sticking with it

I think the voltage drop is higher than expected when tested at the engine block

At the time of testing it was not enough to stop the car from running,

It's an intermitantant fault, there's no guarantees that it wasn't tested just as it was working,

It need looking at and fixing properperly at sometime

However all the amps from the starter motor are carried through the bolt on the gearbox and if this was the main fault I would expect the engine to cut out and the starter not to crank, unless there is another bodge somewhere with another earth has been added



There is a bolt with an earth cable just below the windscreen, what is the voltage measure between the stud and the battery negative, with the main beam on and rear windscreen on

 

[RDM1]

Alright so i managed pushing the car somewhere covered from the rain and went under it double checked the continuity from the gearbox (any random point from it) to the chassis where there's this ground and coming from the battery down it wasn't perfectly passing using the continuity test on the multimeter so i removed the 13 mm bolt in the chassis cleaned all 5 surfaces using a P200 grinding paper and then reconnected the whole Assembly so mow i got a perfect connection from the engine/gearbox to the chassis but couldn't clear the fault using the scan tool before the rain came back

 

[RDM1]

Managed to throw an eye from the downside up viewing everything from behind the engine, everything is normally connected without any apparent issue i even wiggled the cables to make sure nothing is loose or maybe broken and it all seem fine I'm gonna go try with the multimeter checking continuity to make sure everything is fine with the connection on both starter and alternator

 

[RDM1]

Alright so this time that's what the ECU returned as additional fault for the 1st time cleared them with gearbox's faults, EPS faults and BCM faults and the car still refused to start.
And went down again below the car while taking the positive battery terminal all the way to the alternator, I'm getting continuity with a tiny resistance to it and by tiny i mean instead of 000 on the multimeter meaning perfect continuity i am getting 003 and i was checking not on the eye terminal of the alternator but on the bolt that fixes it from the inside.

 

[RDM1]

But now i am wondering what this U1700 DTC refers to because that's the first time it ever showed up now if you can please tell me if the BCM does have a ground wire somewhere to double check it

 

[RDM1]

Oh and by the way this time, every time i crank the car i get the cps sensor DTC whereas before it used to come up after 3 tries