Technical '06 Panda crank sensor issue.....

[RDM1]

And these are the ecu pins for the corresponding plug

 

[koalar]

And these are the ecu pins for the corresponding plug

Better photo nice and sharp

I can zoom in all the pins look good

In fact it's in very good condition

Are you sure you counted the pins from the right end, they are backward according to the pin numbers on the plug

 

[koalar]

Ok so from the left to the right if you can see the mark on the pins in the picture it's gonna be 9th on the first row and 7th on the 2nd row of the upper plug

Place a couple of thin pins in the 9 and 23 holes and measure the resitance with the Crank sensor plugged in

Don't push the meter probes in to the socket it will spread the contacts

It should test the cables and connector at the Crank sensor end for continuity

 

[RDM1]

So you want me to measure the resistance at the ecu plug?

 

[koalar]

So you want me to measure the resistance at the ecu plug?

Yes please

 

[RDM1]

There ya go

 

[RDM1]

Hope it's clear in the video

 

[koalar]

Right that's perfect 1K is right where it should be

Check one pin for resitance to chassis ground

 

[RDM1]

I just saw my mistake of checking both pins at 200 kohm got no response on both ends want me to try again at 2 kohm?

 

[koalar]

No that's fine the wire insulation isn't damaged and shorting to the block

The wire is checks out all the way from the plug to the sensor and back

I think we are done here for checks, I think it's pointless checking for voltage while cranking as its unlikely for two senenors to have the same fault

What we haven't checked is the ECU to wiring loom connector


We can do this from the senor end, if you plug the ECU connector back

Disconnect the crankshaft sensor and with the ignition on measure voltage from each pin to chassis ground

I haven't tried a euro 5 but the older puntos which use a similar sensor are 5V, I haven't got my car here to test either

 

[RDM1]

Hi there everyone i have a fiat panda 2011 dualogic milleplod same as yours and it did the exact same thing as yours it's now at 75000km i tried changing 2 crankshaft position sensors one used on a running car and the one before was a brand new Magnetti Marelli but both didn't work. I sent my ECU to someone that knows how to fix them, he cracked it open and tested it and even on the car and he said that there's no issue with it so now I'm at a loss to what i should do, i double checked all the connections even ground ones all is clean and firmly connected Ecu was closed properly again and seated in its place using Victor Reinz. Now one thing after becoming so desperate for 6 months without the car is that right now i was measuring the car's CPS voltage i noticed when putting the negative prob of the multimeter on the negative battery terminal and inserted the positive into both pins on the CPS i am getting 2v steady reading on both pins and got someone to crank the car for me there's no fluctuations or change at all it's a steady 2v.
Did someone find a solution for this issue? I'd be grateful if you could help me because someone told me that it's a dead ECU but i wanna be sure about it before throwing a big sum of money over it because the BCM is probably bad aswell as it was tempered with the previous owner but i got the car working.
One last thing i forgot to mention is that when i crank and it fail to start the next ignition opening causes the immobilizer to flash 3 times with the last time lasting longer than the others and yet when i crank the car refuses to start

Does that answer your question or want me to make a new video?

 

[RDM1]

If i take positive from the battery and plug the negative in the sensor while plugged i get 11.5-12v on both pins of the cps and if i take the negative from the battery and plug the positive in the sensor i get a steady 2V even while cranking on both pins aswell

 

[koalar]

Does that answer your question or want me to make a new video?

No need for a video

Is that 2V with the ignition on

I would expect it to be 5V but I can't be 100% if I was measuring while cranking

 

[RDM1]

And forgot to mention that it's 0v when ignition is off and 2v on both pins when on acc and cranking

 

[RDM1]

When measuring the negative I'm getting the same 11.5v to 12v no matter if the ignition is on off or cranking

 

[koalar]

When measuring the negative I'm getting the same 11.5v to 12v no matter if the ignition is on off or cranking

Between what points are we measuring here

 

[RDM1]

Between what points are we measuring here

Between positive battery terminal and both pins of the cps

 

[RDM1]

And as i remember hearing it should be 1.5-2.5 on a pin and 0 on the other as a general rule unless this car is different from the usual

 

[RDM1]

No that's fine the wire insulation isn't damaged and shorting to the block

The wire is checks out all the way from the plug to the sensor and back

I think we are done here for checks, I think it's pointless checking for voltage while cranking as its unlikely for two senenors to have the same fault

What we haven't checked is the ECU to wiring loom connector


We can do this from the senor end, if you plug the ECU connector back

Disconnect the crankshaft sensor and with the ignition on measure voltage from each pin to chassis ground

I haven't tried a euro 5 but the older puntos which use a similar sensor are 5V, I haven't got my car here to test either

And answering your statement in the 3rd paragraph a mechanic here that does not involve himself in fiat electrical did mention that he suffered from bad new CPS's sensors on the market and my first CPS i bought was a brand new so it raised questions about it so i went and got a used one that based on the scrap yard comes from a running vehicle's engine, not sure how true his words are but when i probed the sensor on the wires using resistance and continuity i could notice fluctuation in the value as i pass it in front of metal

 

[RDM1]

So i assume the sensor is functional both of them the new and used one