Ah right, yes I just checked, dynamic. I've had several renaults, so automatically put Dynamique.

Just outside Cardiff

To play devil's advocate the Multi ECU scan software (MES) is free and the adaptors are under £20. You do however need a Windows computer to connect use the software. The paid-for versions of MES have additional functions.

My money is on the battery so connect a voltmeter and watch what it shows while you drive. Stick on types are about £5 on eBay. Connect it to any ignition positive wire so it's off when ignition is off.

DaveMcT said:

To play devil's advocate the Multi ECU scan software (MES) is free and the adaptors are under £20. You do however need a Windows computer to connect to. The paid-for versions of MES have additional functions.

My money is on the battery so connect a voltmeter and watch what it shows. Stick on types are about £5 on eBay. Wire it to any ignition On positive wire so its off when ignition is off.

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A randomly connected self powered voltmeter will give undefined results and inconsistent readings because of voltage drops and common ground resistance with other loads. They are OK to fit when everything is known to be OK so any change from "normal" will indicate a possible issue, but are virtually useless for fault finding.
OP has already changed the battery so it's not that.


Robert G8RPI

g8rpi said:

Correct. You need to carry the jump leads and try them if the fault appears.


Robert G8RPI.

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Alternatively..you can get replacement earth lead from Halfords for £5. I added one of these as a secondary earth from neg on battery to one of the Gearbox bell housing bolts, due to having a starter motor issue.
Since adding this the car seems to run a lot smoother and so far no issues with the Airbag light coming on (which it used to do on a regular basis) and car is reliable again on starting.
Airbag light coming on is a known issue on Mk2/b due to dodgy earth on the isolation switch wiring harness ( sometimes simply driving over a bump in the road is enough to make the light come on), and as others have pointed out you need MES to reset the light.
Also worth undoing the body earth bolt (below the battery tray) and giving the contacts a good clean as this can also cause issues with the cars electrics.
Might also be worth taking the rear lights out and cleaning the earth contacts on those, also known to cause interesting glitches in the cars electrics.
Basically FIAT electrics aren't that great and many issues are caused by Bad earth connections on them.
If your Battery is good it could well be just earthing issue causing the problems

Thank you guys.
I replaced the rear shock absorber today, so no more knocking. Im much happier.
Next I'll get an earth lead and try that.

WIll removing the motor altogether make the steering lighter than when driving it with the fault? If so this will be my choice next time my fails consistently. At this stage after I did the contact cleaning (2 years ago) the steering has only failed a couple of times and this when trying to full lock or fast parking manoeuvring at stationary speeds.

dumbledore said:

WIll removing the motor altogether make the steering lighter than when driving it with the fault? If so this will be my choice next time my fails consistently. At this stage after I did the contact cleaning (2 years ago) the steering has only failed a couple of times and this when trying to full lock or fast parking manoeuvring at stationary speeds.

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If you had an accident then you would find your insurance invalid and you would possibly be prosecuted for driving a car in an unsafe condition.

The whole steering set up is designed with the motor in place and working, without it the steering could behave unpredictably.

AndyRKett said:

The whole steering set up is designed with the motor in place and working, without it the steering could behave unpredictably.

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Cheers, this answer suggest is not possible to drive without the motor then. So a solid steering shaft will be required to replace the one assembled with the motor. Such shaft does not seem to be available for the MK2, so no easy options available really. From memory driving with the steering light on (not functioning motor) is very heavy but seems safe. I suppose this will be a MOT failure? so not acceptable for long term use.

dumbledore said:

Cheers, this answer suggest is not possible to drive without the motor then. So a solid steering shaft will be required to replace the one assembled with the motor. Such shaft does not seem to be available for the MK2, so no easy options available really. From memory driving with the steering light on (not functioning motor) is very heavy but seems safe. I suppose this will be a MOT failure? so not acceptable for long term use.

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Reason Steering goes so heavy when the Motor isn't working is that as well as turning the steering without assistance you are also turning the dead motor.
It is possible to source the ECU and motor fairly cheaply on Ebay. There are 2 different setups, Mk2/A which has 2 relays and MK2/B which doesn't.

Scudmonkey said:

Reason Steering goes so heavy when the Motor isn't working is that as well as turning the steering without assistance you are also turning the dead motor.

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This is why I wanted to know if removing the dead motor steering may get lighter, but then this is not possible as mentioned earlier.