The Panda Nut said:

There only needs to be a slight issue and the ratchets just fail to click over. I think my use of copper grease may be part of this. I will use proper brake grease next time.

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Thanks very much for that. My "knee jerk", after so many years of using it, is to reach for the Copper based product, but I've read so much about how "bad" this stuff is when used on modern vehicles https://mintex.com/copper-slip-vs-ceratec/?lang=en-gbr that I now have a selection of greases for use on brakes ranging from "good old" Copa slip through Cera Tec and/or Apec grease https://apecbraking.co.uk/Resources...re-a-need-for-different-types-of-lubrica.aspx to a tin of Silverhook ceramic grease https://silverhook.co.uk/our-products/grease/Grease-Ceramic-Anti-Seize-500g. The Silverhook is a little bit runny so I prefer the Cera Tec or Apec for the brakes but the Siverhook works particularly well on things like exhaust downpipe fixings where the liquid greasy component burns off leaving the ceramic content behind to facilitate later removal. Still can't break the habit of reaching for the Copa slip tub though!

The Panda Nut said:

nothing to fear here standard Bendix type screw / ratchet things they just seem prone to gumming up. There only needs to be a slight issue and the ratchets just fail to click over. I think my use of copper grease may be part of this. I will use proper brake grease next time. I was a Renault man for years and had a number of them that has the same issue. Generally trouble free and straight forward to maintain.

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grease on the adjuster. That's a new one on to me ?

all the ones I fit or take of are dry unless the wheel cylinder is leaking ?

the only grease I add is a dab on the slide pads the shoes pull against

Up to now none have ever need to be taken apart again

Pugglt Auld Jock said:

Thanks very much for that. My "knee . Still can't break the habit of reaching for the Copa slip tub though!

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I have certainly found that copper slip on brake caliper sliders caused issues and these were resolved after advice in here by the use of Bosch brake grease.

I have some spray aluminium anti seize from Wurth that I might risk as its supposed to be just for this task. I too have trouble resisting the copper slip

koalar said:

grease on the adjuster. That's a new one on to me ?

all the ones I fit or take of are dry unless the wheel cylinder is leaking ?

the only grease I add is a dab on the slide pads the shoes pull against

Up to now none have ever need to be taken apart again

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You've got me thinking here koalar. My comments above were intended more generally about using anti seize/lubricant on brakes and I would apply it to the backplate on drum brakes where the shoes are in contact - just as you mention. I'd also apply it to the back of brake pads and the caliper carrier where the pads rest and the clevis pins on handbrake cables if external. I've been using silicon grease on caliper sliders but I like the look of that Apec stuff specifically for use on sliders. Now though, do I use it on adjusters? Depends on the design of adjuster I suppose. Mostly not I must admit and NEVER directly on the ratchet/teeth mechanism. It's been my experience they are happy enough to jump teeth all on their own without any external encouragement! However, on the type of adjuster we have, I would and do apply a light coating to the screw thread and the face of the "nut" where it bears against the tube - but not the teeth themselves - Been doing this for years and it works fine for me. Yes it does attract dust but I don't find this tends to cause them to jam. I think because the rod is lengthening as it works so the nut is always winding itself onto a part of the thread protected inside the tube part of the adjuster?

I'm not in favour of lubricating brake cables themselves now that they are nylon lined as I find it just encourages dirt to adhere and exacerbate any friction which is already present.

The brake adjusters should never see any road salt and normal use should keep them dry. Any sort of lubrication on the threads is pointless and likely to make the threads stick instead of clicking as they adjust for wear.

Dry silicone spray might help, but for what they cost just replace them.