Northern Auto Tech - ECU and Blue & Me Repairs

Technical Leak at heater matrix/pipe joint - HELP PLEASE!

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Technical Leak at heater matrix/pipe joint - HELP PLEASE!

MikeySkiBoy said:
The really difficult bit would appear to be getting your carpet dried out once you have capped the leak. I'm still having to perform occasional inside scraping of the windscreen in frosty weather as there is still a bit of moisture trapped in the under carpet foam type stuff. The leaked coolant has been very reluctant to evaporate away and I haven't been able to get rid of it all yet. Here's hoping for another cracking summer next year so that I can leave the doors open, when I remember to!
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I know exactly what you mean - we had a PUG with a leaky screen,:eek:
lifted carpet .. BUT had to cut-out sections of "soundproofing" and hang them outside to drip-dry :yuck:

wish me luck..I'm going in..!!;)
 
Hi Bill. I'm not convinced that there was anything wrong with my O rings, they were certainly not split, nor cracked, and they looked like new. I also checked for grit, and/or debris, but found absolutely nothing. If new rings were identical, I'm not sure they would really make any difference; they would really need to be a tiny wee bit fatter. To be honest, it is a pretty crappy joint and it seemed to push completely together far too easily and there wasn't much left to tighten up and make a proper seal with. If I was to do it again, and I decided to go for new O rings, I think I would go for the sealant as well - in a belts and braces, flanking, pincer movement.

For Chippy1's info, my ex-leaky Panda is a 2006 diesel dynamic - a metallic blue one!

As for you Charlie, I'm right behind you! In fact, I'll hold yer coat whilst you "go for it". Hope it's not too cold where you are.
 
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Two years on and my panda is still holding on to its coolant in a most acceptable fashion and the Fernox sealant seems to have done the trick......... In fact I haven't had to top it up since! Only problem was that it had taken forever to get the carpet dried out and it still has dried antifreeze in it, which makes the carpet greasy when it is wet.

Now, the heater blower has recently started making high pitched squeaking noises, so I'm off to research that and probably get myself squashed into the footwell again.
 
The info elsewhere in the Panda forum re lubricating the heater blower commutator ring, along with the slightly protruding other end of the spindle, is ABSOLUTELY BANG ON!!!! A couple of quick sqooshes of GT85 spray (WD40 with Teflon knobs on) and the trapped budgie has now left the Panda and hasn't been noticed for a month, rather than almost every bl**dy time the fan was on.

Now I have an engine management light on and a P0106 - MAP/Barometric Pressure Circuit Range/Performance Problem OBD error message to deal with. A bit more research is now required and a possible new thread coming up

My poor 9 year old Panda sems to be having a mid-life crisis!
 
Sorry Varesecrazy..................... I wasn't expecting a response to my rhetorical-ish P0106 OBD meanderings.

It's got one of those magnificent Multjet 1.3 diesels in it. Despite the EM Light, it seems to be as happy as Larry (whoever Larry is?) and there has been no obvious drop in performance, nor MPG. The only obvious sign that something isn't quite right is the clouds of white, smelly, exhaust fumes after a cold start. Once the car is up to tempertaure, there are no signs of a problem at all. I've tried a couple of, what these days seem to be called, "Italian Tune -Ups" and the wee beastie is happy to go like the clappers at high revs, but the EM light has been steadfast.

After a bit of digging, and please excuse my naivety, it looks like the P0106 OBD code points at the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor not being happy with what it is detecting, or it is faulty. I therefore cleaned the MAP sensor, which seemed to have a fair bit of black mayonnaise in it, but that didn't seem to help. Further research inidicates that MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor might also have a finger in this pie. So I've just cleaned the MAF sensor as well, which actually looked pretty clean even though it has never been cleaned, and I am just letting it dry off before putting it back in. For info - both sensors generously sqooshed with Wynn's Electrical Contact Cleaner spray (which is just Isopropyl Alcohol).

For anyone looking at poking these sensors, the MAF sensor, which is on the end of the big pipe at the front right of the air box, is easy to get at. The MAP sensor, located underneath the air box and at the top rear of the engine, is a bit more awkward to get at. If you have a screw driver (for the pipe clamp) and small socket set handy (for the sensor to air box set screws) MAF sensor removal would take 5 minutes. You will need a screw driver (for the pipe clamp at MAF end) and an Allen key (3mm it think) to get the MAP sensor out and that job would take 10 minutes.

Whilst waiting for the MAF to completely dry off, could anyone please advise if the EM light will self-extinguish if I have managed to clear the issue, or will it stay on until it has been told to go away? If it will just stay on I might end up with the car in bits and a little glowing bulb!!!
 
MikeySkiBoy said:
Sorry Varesecrazy..................... I wasn't expecting a response to my rhetorical-ish P0106 OBD meanderings.

It's got one of those magnificent Multjet 1.3 diesels in it.

After a bit of digging, and please excuse my naivety, it looks like the P0106 OBD code points at the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor not being happy with what it is detecting, or it is faulty. I therefore cleaned the MAP sensor, which seemed to have a fair bit of black mayonnaise in it, but that didn't seem to help. Further research inidicates that MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor might also have a finger in this pie. So I've just cleaned the MAF sensor as well, which actually looked pretty clean even though it has never been cleaned, and I am just letting it dry off before putting it back in. For info - both sensors generously sqooshed with Wynn's Electrical Contact Cleaner spray (which is just Isopropyl Alcohol).


For anyone looking at poking these sensors, the MAF sensor, which is on the end of the big pipe at the front right of the air box, is easy to get at. The MAP sensor, located underneath the air box and at the top rear of the engine, is a bit more awkward to get at. If you have a screw driver (for the pipe clamp) and small socket set handy (for the sensor to air box set screws) MAF sensor removal would take 5 minutes. You will need a screw driver (for the pipe clamp at MAF end) and an Allen key (3mm it think) to get the MAP sensor out and that job would take 10 minutes.

Whilst waiting for the MAF to completely dry off, could anyone please advise if the EM light will self-extinguish if I have managed to clear the issue, or will it stay on until it has been told to go away? If it will just stay on I might end up with the car in bits and a little glowing bulb!!!
Click to expand...

thought it might..;)

common'ish issue, :eek:
not a 1.3 expert though - so will let others answer;)

to be honest one of the Fiat Scotland regulars may have a code reader / MES to sort it for you.., steve119 or M60TYN are near you..,

Charlie
 
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