Technical Radiator fan burning

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Technical Radiator fan burning

Unlucky. Perhaps salt and snow produced super accelerated corrosion in the no-doubt under used fan that was effectively seized or certainly under stress when it did finally turn on today. Shame the fuse didn't go, but electrically it isn't always the case that it will. It's bad, but least least you haven't had a proper fire.
 
There are different fans based on air con or not.
Shop 4 parts has both new, £111 for non and £170 with air con.
http://www.shop4parts.co.uk/?name=s...3&secondary=15&opts=65&btnViewProducts=Search

You could also try Firela in Clapham for a new one
http://firelamotors.co.uk/

There's a few panda's being broken of Ebay.

pcjpuntos 0207 737 3886 in SE5 9DW had a panda in being broken a while ago.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/04-PLATE-FIAT-PANDA-TAILGATE-/130473042297?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1e60cca179



 
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Hi again,

I need to ask more advice on this one.

I have replaced the radiator fan and warmed up the car. The temperature gauge was climbing well past the half way point and the fan didn't kick in at all. What else could be wrong? I check the fuse, this hasn't blown. I can't think what else it could be.:confused:

Any other suggestions?

Thanks again.
 
Melted wiring from before? Should be pretty obvious to you though. The possible shorting might have caused melting further down the wire though or damage to components in the circuit as below.

Check fuse F06 and relay T06 (a small red one) in the under-bonnet junction box.

Worse problem would be the trigger output from the body ECU is not activating for some reason. This would likely be considered impossible to repair and mean new ECUs. Probably try the relay and fuse first though!
 
Melted wiring from before? Should be pretty obvious to you though. The possible shorting might have caused melting further down the wire though or damage to components in the circuit as below.

Check fuse F06 and relay T06 (a small red one) in the under-bonnet junction box.

Worse problem would be the trigger output from the body ECU is not activating for some reason. This would likely be considered impossible to repair and mean new ECUs. Probably try the relay and fuse first though!

Cheers Lewey, will have a look at these tomorrow. Is there a way of testing the relay? Couldn't see any wire damage but will look at this tomorrow. Fuses looked ok to me, I'm praying it's not an ECU problem! (y)
 
Hi James, regarding relay, remove it and best way would be to mimic it on the fuse board. Will basically be a cause of causing a bridge between two out of the four points that the relay plugs into which should in turn activate the fan (I'll check the pin numbers in the morning for you).

Alternatively remove another relay and put it in it's place (the use loads, might be worth using headlamp one etc to check.

If none of the above makes sense give me a call and I'll run you through it. I also have plenty of spare mini relays that they use should you need one ;)
 
Hi James, regarding relay, remove it and best way would be to mimic it on the fuse board. Will basically be a cause of causing a bridge between two out of the four points that the relay plugs into which should in turn activate the fan (I'll check the pin numbers in the morning for you).

Alternatively remove another relay and put it in it's place (the use loads, might be worth using headlamp one etc to check.

If none of the above makes sense give me a call and I'll run you through it. I also have plenty of spare mini relays that they use should you need one ;)

Thanks, I'll do this around 12pm and write back :) Might be worth a drive up to see you anyway, been a long time:p
 
Is there a thermoswitch in the rad?

If so, pull the wires off the back of it and short them across with a paper clip (watch your fingers with the fan, it might come on).

Now if you turn on the ignition, does the fan come on?

If the fan runs, you'll need to change the switch that's screwed into the rad.
 
Is there a thermoswitch in the rad?

If so, pull the wires off the back of it and short them across with a paper clip (watch your fingers with the fan, it might come on).

Now if you turn on the ignition, does the fan come on?

If the fan runs, you'll need to change the switch that's screwed into the rad.

:yeahthat:

Probably a better way of testing the relay, although I don't think there is a thermostatic switch on the rad (don't remember seeing one when changing sisters last month), I think it runs off the engine block as they're ECU / Canbus controled.

I'll quickly go and check what relay pins it is you'll need to by pass.
 
ECU triggers fan (single speed) via a supplied earth to the relay in question using the only water temp sensor there is which is on the thermostat housing. Same it uses for all temp related decisions. There is nothing else in the circuit other than fan, relay, fuse and ECU trigger wire. Very simple and easy to diagnose.
 
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