This guide was written based on my experiances replacing sumps on 1.1/1.2 8v engines, but others engines will use a similar process.

This gets asked a fair bit, so thought I'd copy and paste my tips from previous threads...

First of all, a few tips and advice when replacing the sump...

- "Be careful with the sump bolts" would be my main tip - they are very easily over tightened and ruin the thread.

- Be sure the mating surfaces are perfectly clean. Spend some time getting all the sealant off the block - razor blades help here. Be sure the mating surfaces are completely free of grease and oil otherwise the sealent wont stick properly and leave a gap for oil to leak.

- Finally, when applying the sealent, put plenty on - first time I did a sump, I used a small bead all the way around mating surfaces as instructed and it left a couple of gaps and I had to redo the whole thing again - digging sealent out of the channels on the mating surface of the sump is not a fun job! When re-doing it, I cut the nozzle on the sealent tube further down to create about a 8mm bead. Worked perfect. Make sure the bead is continuos all the way around the sump, even around the bolt holes.

As for parts, the sump and sealent should come to around £50 together. You'll also require some new oil (Fiat recommend the appropriate grade of 'Selenia' oil, and so do I,) and you may aswell replace the oil filter too while your at it. All in all, it should come to under £80 - For that you'll have a new sump, fresh quality oil change and new filter!

As for time, even for a DIYer, 2hrs tops (although I recommend the overnight method described below to ensure no remaining oil is going to ruin your seal.)

Here we go...

1, Jack the front of the car up and place it safely on axle stands.

2, Let the car idle for a couple of minutes to warm the oil. DO NOT LET THE ENGINE OR EXHAUST GET HOT.

3, Drain the oil by removing the filler bung on top of the engine and using a 12mm allen key or hex bit to remove the drain plug on the sump.

4, Remove the blue oil filter located to the front of the engine by twisting it anticlockwise. An oil filter removal tool may be required for stubborn filters.

5, Remove flywheel cover with the 2 or 3 bolts that secure it (10mm I believe)

6, Remove all sump bolts.

7, Prise the sump off the block (the sealant will still be gluing it in place.) Pull it away carefully so as to not hit the oil pickup which hangs down from the engine to the bottom of the sump. Wipe as much oil off the block as possible with a rag.

- At this point I leave the sump off overnight to get as much oil out as possible, because if some oil dribbles down onto the mating surface, the sealent won't stick at that point and leave a gap.

8, Use a stanley blade to scrape all sealent off the block - take your time with this step, dont skimp on it.

9, Check the sump in place. it can be fiddly to put on especially near the flywheel end, so this practice will do you good.

10, Wipe the block with a rag.

11, Put a continuos bead of sealent right around the mating surface on the sump.

12, Place the sump in position and start replacing the bolts.

13, Leave the sealent to dry for the instructed time and when the sealent had dried, you might want to trim excess sealent near the flywheel and crankshaft pully with a stanley knife.

14, Replace flywheel cover.

15, Dip your finger in the new bottle of oil and smear it around the rubber seal of the new filter.

16, Install the new filter by twisting it clockwise on to the thread.

17, Fill with oil as you normally would to top up. Keep checking the dip-stick and stop at MAX. Start the car, let it run for 30 sec, then re-check the oil level on the dip-stick and top up as necessary.

18, Take the car for a few laps around the block and then cross your fingers when you park up and check for leaks.

Good Luck (y)
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