Technical stop start

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Technical stop start

I don't quite understand why you disliked my post, pritch4891. Would you care to explain your reasons?!
LOL it's probably an accident. People posting on iDevices (I'm looking at you even though you're not here Notts!) have issues clicking the right thumbs up/down button.
 
Ah ok.. sorry for being stand-offish... I just didn't think I'd posted anything negative or critical! :)
 
Ah ok.. sorry for being stand-offish... I just didn't think I'd posted anything negative or critical! :)

Don't apologise, it's natural to think "WTF did I do to deserve that you ****ing ****er?!?!?!!??!" when you were being helpful :p

Pritch should apologise for having fat fingers :D
 
Cured the stop start problem, clean the battery terminals and cover with silicone grease or Vaseline.
The electronics monitor the battery state and inactivate the stop start if they perceive the battery charge as having dropped below a "safe" level for restart.
I checked the battery terminals of my 3 month old 500 Twin and since there was corrosion on the terminals, (impairing the connection) & gave them a clean with a scourer, and reconnected after a liberal covering of silicone grease, prob solved!
 
Might have to try this little hint myself.

Have had a few times, in the last few weeks, Stop Start Unavailable coming up on the display along with the warning triangle and the stop start logo up the top right of the dash. It's also persisted between restarts of the car about an hour apart, however after 2+ hours sat outside the cinema last night the error cleared itself and it's fine again.

When people say "riding the clutch" do they mean pulling up to junctions and keeping your foot on the clutch the whole time, but not taking the car out of gear? I do that quite a lot. But I can't think of anything else I'm doing which could upset it..
 
Might have to try this little hint myself.

Have had a few times, in the last few weeks, Stop Start Unavailable coming up on the display along with the warning triangle and the stop start logo up the top right of the dash. It's also persisted between restarts of the car about an hour apart, however after 2+ hours sat outside the cinema last night the error cleared itself and it's fine again.

When people say "riding the clutch" do they mean pulling up to junctions and keeping your foot on the clutch the whole time, but not taking the car out of gear? I do that quite a lot. But I can't think of anything else I'm doing which could upset it..

Read your manual........ what you are doing is wrong. Just wrong.......

I just punched the wall, now my hand hurts, does anyone have this issue with their wall? Is my wall faulty? Etc etc etc
 
Eh? Sorry mate but I think that's utter nonsense! Riding the clutch is when you have the clutch partially engaged so that you, for example, can hold yourself on an incline without rolling backwards and without using the handbrake.

I fully disengage the clutch - foot to the floor - I don't understand how this can be damaging to the car given that the clutch is NOT ENGAGED?
 
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Eh? Sorry mate but I think that's utter nonsense! Riding the clutch is when you have the clutch partially engaged so that you, for example, can hold yourself on an incline without rolling backwards and without using the handbrake.

I fully disengage the clutch - foot to the floor - I don't understand how this can be damaging to the car given that the clutch is NOT ENGAGED?

That be the key, you don't understand. When I punched the wall I didn't understand that it could hurt my hand, it's reasonable to understand therefore that my hand shouldn't hurt, yet for some reason it still hurts which is rather confusing?

Please read your manual, please read the threads on here regarding Start & Stop. They give guidance on how not to drive your car.
 
You really don't have to take the facetious approach with your wording mate... I'm not a child ;)

If I'm somehow driving the car wrong then I'll accept that and go back and RTFM but I do think it's something of an oversight therefore on the technology that it doesn't "just work" and instead you have to change the way in which you operate the car.. the method on which on any other car with a manual transmission is fine.. that's the point I think I'm making!
 
You really don't have to take the facetious approach with your wording mate... I'm not a child ;)

If I'm somehow driving the car wrong then I'll accept that and go back and RTFM but I do think it's something of an oversight therefore on the technology that it doesn't "just work" and instead you have to change the way in which you operate the car.. the method on which on any other car with a manual transmission is fine.. that's the point I think I'm making!

You are incorrect. Holding the clutch in needlessly will wear the clutch release bearing. Fiat have designed a system to work properly for people who drive the car properly and in a way which isn't going to wear/damage it excessively. You are choosing to operate the car in a way which causes the warning light to come on. That is all.

Fiat: 1
chicaneuk: 0
 
Sigh. Yes, I concede.. it's pretty likely that a motor manufacturer knows more about the mechanical in's and out's of their own cars better than I do. Astutely observed.

You live and learn. Aside from my wilful, outrageous neglect and abuse of my clutch release bearing I am a stickler for treating cars properly - proper warm up / warm down, mechanical sympathy, and regimented servicing...

I'll try and instill a bit more discipline into my clutch control and see if the problem persists.
 
You are incorrect. Holding the clutch in needlessly will wear the clutch release bearing. Fiat have designed a system to work properly for people who drive the car properly and in a way which isn't going to wear/damage it excessively. You are choosing to operate the car in a way which causes the warning light to come on. That is all.

Fiat: 1
chicaneuk: 0

I don't agree. With a normal manual gearbox you press the clutch all the way down, and keep the car in 1. gear so you are ready to accelerate at a moments notice. There is more wear on the gearbox by going to neutral and back, than to the clutch by holding it down. Riding the clutch is another matter and should be avoided. Fiat didn't design the start&stop for "the correct way to drive a car", but for a convenient way to choose to engage the function when the driver thinks it's appropriate. So you can choose to engage the star&stop function when you can see that you'll be stopping for some time (and don't have to suddenly accelerate at a moments notice). I just got my car yesterday, but i don't think i'll be using start&stopwhen im the first car in a crossing with a long tail behind me - it potentially takes too long to start again and people behind me will get all mad and i'll impede the natural flow of traffic :(
 
I don't agree. With a normal manual gearbox you press the clutch all the way down, and keep the car in 1. gear so you are ready to accelerate at a moments notice. There is more wear on the gearbox by going to neutral and back, than to the clutch by holding it down. Riding the clutch is another matter and should be avoided. Fiat didn't design the start&stop for "the correct way to drive a car", but for a convenient way to choose to engage the function when the driver thinks it's appropriate. So you can choose to engage the star&stop function when you can see that you'll be stopping for some time (and don't have to suddenly accelerate at a moments notice). I just got my car yesterday, but i don't think i'll be using start&stopwhen im the first car in a crossing with a long tail behind me - it potentially takes too long to start again and people behind me will get all mad and i'll impede the natural flow of traffic :(

You can disagree all you want. The fact is that there is the least wear by putting the car in neautral and not putting the clutch in. That my friend is a fact.

You might think that there's less wear by just keeping the clutch in and staying in gear, but you would be wrong.

The fact that you can keep a non Start and Stop manual car in first with the clutch pressed in doesn't mean that this is the right thing to do, the car will allow you to ride the clutch if you want, it'll allow you to do clutchless changes if you want and if you want to drive it into a wall it's not going to stop you. Just because cars of the past allowed you to do the wrong thing that doesn't mean that this is the right thing to do.
 
You can disagree all you want. The fact is that there is the least wear by putting the car in neautral and not putting the clutch in. That my friend is a fact.

You might think that there's less wear by just keeping the clutch in and staying in gear, but you would be wrong.

The fact that you can keep a non Start and Stop manual car in first with the clutch pressed in doesn't mean that this is the right thing to do, the car will allow you to ride the clutch if you want, it'll allow you to do clutchless changes if you want and if you want to drive it into a wall it's not going to stop you. Just because cars of the past allowed you to do the wrong thing that doesn't mean that this is the right thing to do.

the clutch can be in 3 states and only one of them causes wear

engaged - where the friction plate is in contact with the flywheel and pressed in place by the cover - no wear unless it is slipping due to too much torque or being worn out

disengaged - where the friction plate is not in contact with the flywheel - no wear

in the process of engaging or disengaging - this is when the friction plate is most exposed to wear and the life of the clutch is very dependant on the skill of the driver [ame="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clutch_control"]Clutch control - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia[/ame]
 
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the clutch can be in 3 states and only one of them causes wear

engaged - where the friction plate is in contact with the flywheel and pressed in place by the cover - no wear unless it is slipping due to too much torque or being worn out

disengaged - where the friction plate is not in contact with the flywheel - no wear

in the process of engaging or disengaging - this is when the friction plate is most exposed to wear and the life of the clutch is very dependant on the skill of the driver

Reading fail? :rolleyes:

I didn't say that putting the clutch in would wear the clutch, I said it would wear the CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING :bang:
 
You live and learn. Aside from my wilful, outrageous neglect and abuse of my clutch release bearing I am a stickler for treating cars properly - proper warm up / warm down, mechanical sympathy, and regimented servicing...

The problem is that a lot of things which people were taught are wrong.

For instance, on a snowy/icy winters morning if you leave your car idling to warm up you will actually wear the engine more than if you simply de-iced, got in and drove off (gently).

It sounds counterintuitive, but think about it. On a cold morning below 0 your car will be idling and producing very little heat, being that it's cold outside the environment will be doing its best to take that heat away and it'll take a while to get up to temperature. Driving off from cold (in a gentle manner and after giving it a few seconds to splash some oil about on its insides ) will produce more heat more quickly and the car will get up to temp more quickly and you'll get less wear. The other thing people don't think about is that other parts of the car also need to get up to operating temperature, wheel bearings need to warm up, shock absorbers need to warm up too and leaving your engine to idle won't warm your gearbox up. So when idling numpty pulls away and drives the car as if it's warmed up then they're going to be causing extra wear on components or they'll simply have components that aren't yet quite up to what's being asked of them.
 
Reading fail? :rolleyes:

I didn't say that putting the clutch in would wear the clutch, I said it would wear the CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING :bang:

a release bearing should last the life of the clutch with no issue, it is designed to rotate (y)
when a clutch is replaced it is supplied as a 3 piece kit of friction plate, cover and release bearing, although some cheap garages will try to get away with just replacing the friction plate...

more and more these days the flywheel is also lifed and should be replaced along with the clutch

think of the clutch as the brake pads and the flywheel as the brake disc
 
a release bearing should last the life of the clutch with no issue, it is designed to rotate (y)
when a clutch is replaced it is supplied as a 3 piece kit of friction plate, cover and release bearing, although some cheap garages will try to get away with just replacing the friction plate...

more and more these days the flywheel is also lifed and should be replaced along with the clutch

think of the clutch as the brake pads and the flywheel as the brake disc

Rob, just to be clear, are you saying that Maxi was wrong when he said this?

You can disagree all you want. The fact is that there is the least wear by putting the car in neautral and not putting the clutch in. That my friend is a fact.

You might think that there's less wear by just keeping the clutch in and staying in gear, but you would be wrong.

The fact that you can keep a non Start and Stop manual car in first with the clutch pressed in doesn't mean that this is the right thing to do, the car will allow you to ride the clutch if you want, it'll allow you to do clutchless changes if you want and if you want to drive it into a wall it's not going to stop you. Just because cars of the past allowed you to do the wrong thing that doesn't mean that this is the right thing to do.
 
The problem is that a lot of things which people were taught are wrong.

For instance, on a snowy/icy winters morning if you leave your car idling to warm up you will actually wear the engine more than if you simply de-iced, got in and drove off (gently).

It sounds counterintuitive, but think about it. On a cold morning below 0 your car will be idling and producing very little heat, being that it's cold outside the environment will be doing its best to take that heat away and it'll take a while to get up to temperature. Driving off from cold (in a gentle manner and after giving it a few seconds to splash some oil about on its insides ) will produce more heat more quickly and the car will get up to temp more quickly and you'll get less wear. The other thing people don't think about is that other parts of the car also need to get up to operating temperature, wheel bearings need to warm up, shock absorbers need to warm up too and leaving your engine to idle won't warm your gearbox up. So when idling numpty pulls away and drives the car as if it's warmed up then they're going to be causing extra wear on components or they'll simply have components that aren't yet quite up to what's being asked of them.

modern cars are designed and endurance tested to cope with forceeable (mis)use and still last the design life which is typically 10 years.
it is in the manufacturers interest to engineer the car to exceed the warranty period without developing faults, and have an acceptable lifetime so that the reputation of the brand is good

Maxi you bang on as if you are the authority on all things autmotive but how much hands on time have you actually had with the oily bits? is all your knowledge from a text book?
my experience is both hands on and from a design and durability testing career so please consider that you might not know everything (y)
 
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