Technical Won't start when hot

Currently reading:
Technical Won't start when hot

Don’t know if I’ve made it worse but it’s running lumpy and is reluctant to idle now.

Thought perhaps an air leak but after reseating the throttle body it’s still there.

It seems to be running rich too.

I’ve also changed the resistor thing that lives near the O/S headlight and has 2 blue wires attached (didn’t even know I had one of these thingies)

The lambada sensor.

The Alternator as the lights seem to dim when the engine is about to stall and the fan belt started squealing.

Seems worse than ever now. I’ve tried too many things… too many variables grrr.

Only the loom, evaporation system, pump and engine to change now.

Could a slight blow in the exhaust cause any of theses symptoms? Had one before and I didn’t.
 
ECU is learning type, so if you disconnect battery for some time it might behave strange after reset (reving up and down at idle) for 100-200km

Resistor is connected in series with fuel injector.

You can disconnect hose for evaporation system and plug the hole in TB. It works without it.
 
Louie - Im an IT tech, and the only thing I can suggest is:

Have you tried turning it off and then on again?

;)
 
Louie - Im an IT tech, and the only thing I can suggest is:

Have you tried turning it off and then on again?

;)

And make sure it's actually plugged in ;)

(I used to work in IT years ago. The number of customers that rang up about faulty computers and we then found out that they either weren't switched on at the wall or the power cable had been unplugged... :rolleyes: )
 
Oh it looks much the same as the one from the Uno Turbo.

This time I tried starting the car after disconnecting various plugs and noticed if you remove the multi plug on the right of the throttle body (as you look in the bay) the car will fire, but not run.

If you disconnect this (the throttle position switch) the ECU thinks that the throttle position switch is broken and controls the fuel mixture with open loop control rather than closed loop (closed loop uses all sensors, open doesn't). The reason it will fire but not run is because the auto choke, little plunger thing that pushes the butterfly on the left of the throttle body, will not be set right. You can usually get it running by setting the throttle slightly open. To me this all points towards a sensor failure.

I couldn't tell if you'd actually tried the coolant temperature sensor as you mentioned one that controls the in car temperature guage, but this isn't it. That literally only runs the temp guage in car from the oil temp. The coolant temp sensor is in the back of the inlet manifold with a 2 pin plug going to it, should have a blue connector for it.
Seems it might be the way to go if its running rich and doesn't start when hot. Otherwise lambda sensor or the module on the distributor (engine speed sensor) affect the fuel system, but you say you've tried changing them already.

If you're desperate a garage should have a thing to plug in and search for faults with the sensors, not very reliable tho as they don't always come up with problems.

Good luck!
 
To clarify, Since I first experienced the issue I have changed
Spark plugs and HT leads
Distributor, including small ECU and pickup sensor
Coolent sensor from head (for in car guage)
Coolant Sensor from inlet manifold
Throttle body it’s self
Big in car ECU
Lambada sensor
Rotor arm and distributor cap

After changing all the above on Saturday night it wouldn’t even idle when cold.

So I was considering putting the spare 999cc engine in.

Sunday morning with the turn of the key she fired right on que and drove well. So I spent most of the day working my MK1 project :D

Think I can live with the issue for now and hopefully the MK1 will be finished soon.

Thanks for the help guys!!

Well I may have another look
 
Back
Top