General why i shouldnt be allowed...

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General why i shouldnt be allowed...

either he is retarded, or he was trying to get out of doing the other side.

Retarded!, ha far from it :D lets not forget I used to repair dampers for industry not poxy car dampers but hydraulic type,If it wasn't safe I wouldn't of done it, end of.....right....... Dampers....... (correct term kay not shocks :p) simplified, dampers are a light base oil which shift between two cylinders, through a pin hole,. its the springs that are detrimental about being replaced in pairs Not Dampers!


everyone jumps on the replace both at the same time band wagon... plenty that can talk the talk but not walk it!


rant over :p


do it yourself next time kay :p :):):p
 
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either he is retarded, or he was trying to get out of doing the other side.

Retarded!, ha far from it :D lets not forget i used to repair dampers for industry not poxy car dampers but hydraulic type,if it wasnt safe i would of done it, end of,right Damplers....... (correct term kay not shocks :p) simplified, dampers are a light base oil which shift between two cylinders, through a pin hole,. its the springs that are detrimental about being replace in pairs,

everyone jumps on the replace both at the same time band wagon... plenty that can talk the talk but not walk it!


rant over :p


do it yourself next time kay :p :):):p

Pwned
 
if one has gone other is near end of life, so may as well do that too


(y) that i agree with, but if the other damper is mechanically sound, why fix it if it isnt broken, kays collapsed strut assy was put down as an advisory on a previous Mot, so obviously wasnt in sound mechanical order

the stanchion was returning to full compression at bottom, half the oil had gone... so it had no dampening effect whatsoever,,


dont get me wrong its good practice to replace both, but not detrimental at all, i replaced the front shock drivers side on the stilo on one side...
 
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Retarded!, ha far from it :D lets not forget I used to repair dampers for industry not poxy car dampers but hydraulic type,If it wasn't safe I wouldn't of done it, end of

it isnt safe, read any manual, or ask any qualifed mechanic, or use past experience (if you can have much at your age), or even apply some basic common sense ffs.

.....right....... Dampers....... (correct term kay not shocks :p)

dampers are shock absorders, shock is an abbreviation of shock absorber. both terms are correct, but i agree the technical name is damper.

.....simplified, dampers are a light base oil which shift between two cylinders, through a pin hole,.

they arent hydraulic, its nitrogen gas in this application. all bravos have gas shocks on the front, that is why leaks are more difficult to detect, you dont get a wet patch.

its the springs that are detrimental about being replaced in pairs Not Dampers!
everyone jumps on the replace both at the same time band wagon... plenty that can talk the talk but not walk it!
i've walked the walk dozens of times in the last dozen years. while you were still making fart jokes at school i was doing stupid things like chopping springs and only changing the shocks on one side. i've made the mistakes and seen the results plenty of times.

bound and rebound are controlled by the dampers, nothing else only the dampers. the springs control ride height, but only the dampers control the 'bouncing' of those springs.

bound and rebound both have a huge impact on cornering, especially stability. if one side if different to the other it has a negative impact on handling, not least in how easily you can predict the way the car behaves, but also because any movement will transfer to the weaker side, which usually drags the car to one side.

lets imagine you hit a bump going round a fast corner, with even damping you'd have stabilty, with uneven damping you'd have a lurch to one side. that difference can mean the difference between staying on the road and leaving it.

have you even driven a car with uneven damping before?

i thought you were lazy and the retarded bit was a joke, but now i'm wondering.
 
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Retarded!, ha far from it :D lets not forget I used to repair dampers for industry not poxy car dampers but hydraulic type,If it wasn't safe I wouldn't of done it, end of.....right....... Dampers....... (correct term kay not shocks :p) simplified, dampers are a light base oil which shift between two cylinders, through a pin hole,. its the springs that are detrimental about being replaced in pairs Not Dampers!


everyone jumps on the replace both at the same time band wagon... plenty that can talk the talk but not walk it!


rant over :p


do it yourself next time kay :p :):):p

it isnt safe, read any manual, or ask any qualifed mechanic, or use past experience (if you can have much at your age), or even apply some basic common sense ffs.



dampers are shock absorders, shock is an abbreviation of shock absorber. both terms are correct, but i agree the technical name is damper.



they arent hydraulic, its nitrogen gas in this application. all bravos have gas shocks on the front, that is why leaks are more difficult to detect, you dont get a wet patch.


i've walked the walk dozen of times in the last decade. while you were still making fart jokes at school i was doing stupid things like chopping springs and only changing the shocks on one side. i've made the mistakes and seen the results plenty of times.

bound and rebound are controlled by the dampers, nothing else only the dampers. the springs control ride height, but only the dampers control the 'bouncing' of those springs.

bound and rebound both have a huge impact on cornering, especially stability. if one side if different to the other it has a negative impact on handling, not least in how easily you can predict the way the car behaves, but also because any movement will transfer to the weaker side, which usually drags the car to one side.

lets imagine you hit a bump going round a fast corner, with even damping you'd have stabilty, with uneven damping you'd have a lurch to one side. that difference can mean the difference between staying on the road and leaving it.

have you even driven a car with uneven damping before?

i thought you were lazy and the retarded bit was a joke, but now i'm wondering.

pwned
 
Its pathetic really, jug mate your 27... get a grip!, I know what im doing, and if i dont i always research it, we used to repair dampening struts on 18 tonne presses, support levers on radial arm saws etc etc,,,

if you notice i said simplified it the explanation of dampers, hydro-elastic, hydro-pneumatic and so on all have the same theory


all this jibes and digs really??, is it needed??? this the fact you dont turn up to meets???


we are all on this forum because of the same interests, cars,, fiats and so on,,, if youve got a dig with me , gladly say it stood in front of me,,,, not over the net,,,,


Sorry for spamming the thead Dave,,, and Kay,,,, :(


thats it end of, i dont feel I have to justify myself,,
 
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it isnt safe, read any manual, or ask any qualifed mechanic, or use past experience or even apply some basic common sense.



dampers are shock absorders, shock is an abbreviation of shock absorber. both terms are correct, but i agree the technical name is damper.

bound and rebound are controlled by the dampers, nothing else only the dampers. the springs control ride height, but only the dampers control the 'bouncing' of those springs.

bound and rebound both have a huge impact on cornering, especially stability. if one side if different to the other it has a negative impact on handling, not least in how easily you can predict the way the car behaves, but also because any movement will transfer to the weaker side, which usually drags the car to one side.

lets imagine you hit a bump going round a fast corner, with even damping you'd have stabilty, with uneven damping you'd have a lurch to one side. that difference can mean the difference between staying on the road and leaving it.
:yeahthat:

steely you even said in your post its good practice to replace both!
 
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i agree with jug mutchly i have uneven damping on the rear of my punto currently someone else did it not me and it's pretty unpredictable at the best of times it is very noticeable indeed left hand corners and right hand corners feels like your driving a completely different car

also more to the point if a manufacturer specifies that you change them in pairs like almost all i know off do specially for things like warranty repairs and you don't then you personally not the garage not your foreman You are responsible for anything that happens and can be proven as a direct result of the work carried out

so change them in pairs people if it's your own car and your repaired to take the risk then fine but don't ever advise anyone else that it is safe it's not


also why has no one pointed the obvious here use a die nut on the bottom of the bolt under the strut before you attempt to shift it as they stick out quite a way underneath and accumulate quite allot of much and corosion build up you will never pull it all thou the strut along with the bolt

also someone said use a windy to rattle it in and out till it comes lose well in this application any weak threads would not cause a problem they only ever have to support the weight of the strut hub and wheel assembly over crests but in some cases if you do this i have seen the threads become so damaged that the bolt has come out again after being replaced
 
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