Is it worth mentioning here that trying to achieve "ride height" on the rear suspension (ie. same as would be when the weight of the vehicle is on the rear wheels) by jacking up on the rear suspension (we seem to be talking spring pans here?) will only be valid if the distance from the rear suspension arm pivot point to the spring pan is the same as the distance from this pivot point to the centre line of the stub axle (simple principle of levers?) Commonly the spring pan is nearer the pivot so you won't achieve as much spring compression. Also, you will have to jack both sides at the same time to achieve the same distribution of vehicle weight as in normal running conditions. Much better to measure the normal ride height before you start (axle to wheel arch) and then simply jack up the arm on the relevant side before final tightening of the mounting. As to where you jack it? I quite like to apply the hand brake firmly - front wheels will already be chocked - place a wooden block on the jack saddle and jack on the drum, disc or hub itself depending on design. Suspension varies so much in design that it can sometimes be difficult to jack effectively on the arm but you can always jack on the drum, disc or hub. Make sure the handbrake is on tight first though if you're going with the drum or disc to stop it rolling and "spitting" the jack out!
Edit. Oh dear, you didn't take the measurement before starting the job? Well stick a tape measure in your pocket and go looking for a parked one. You can measure it at the kerbside very quickly but be ready for an "interesting" conversation if the owner is nearby!
Edit. Oh dear, you didn't take the measurement before starting the job? Well stick a tape measure in your pocket and go looking for a parked one. You can measure it at the kerbside very quickly but be ready for an "interesting" conversation if the owner is nearby!
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