What's made you grumpy today?

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What's made you grumpy today?

The Bluemotion tech in my car does the complete opposite.
the car has regenerative braking so off the power like an electric car there is a huge amount of “engine braking”

To be fair diesels are very high compression anyway, our ds3 would basically stop if you lifted.

It does all the variable rate charging alternator business etc the DS3 had...there's just very little in the way of mechanical or air resistance when you lift. Stop start works all the time for long periods so it's clearly harvesting enough for what it needs.

Being a low friction 3 cyl you can change down to 3rd at 65mph and generate some and it spins up to 4k with barely any noise or vibration off throttle. But that just feels a bit too abusive as rev matching with the turbo lag is a bit of a pain as well so it always feels more "clutch braking" not "engine braking" on the 50% of the time it doesn't quite give you the revs requested.
 
To be fair diesels are very high compression anyway, our ds3 would basically stop if you lifted.
That’s probably a fair comment, however the massive extra weight and inertia in my heavy golf would probably be more than enough to overcome any increase in compression.

Embarrassingly but successfully and surprisingly I have managed to stall it in 4th at speed when what I wanted to do didn’t quite gel with what the car thought was going on
 
That’s probably a fair comment, however the massive extra weight and inertia in my heavy golf would probably be more than enough to overcome any increase in compression.

Embarrassingly but successfully and surprisingly I have managed to stall it in 4th at speed when what I wanted to do didn’t quite gel with what the car thought was going on

You've also got nearly double the area for the compression to act on given I have a mighty 1200cc 3...so 400cc per cylinder, while you've got 2000cc and 500cc per cylinder.

Not only that, but strokes are further apart at 120 degrees apart not 90 so if everything else was equal I'd have less per revolution.

You've also got additional losses associated with the 4 cylinder as you've got more perimeter for a given volume than a 3 and the rotational loss associated with cylinder 4s valve gear, and crankshaft etc.

On top of that your stop start needs to harvest more electricity as being a larger engine with larger parasitic losses you need more amps to kick it over cold and restart it after stop start activation. So you get more effect from the variable alternator.

These and other reasons (mainly cost or manufacturing saves 4 valves, block material etc etc.) would be why 3 cylinders are all the rage for smaller engines.

As of course...paper fuel economy and emissions are regulated..how much crap comes off your brake pads currently isn't.
 
On top of that your stop start needs to harvest more electricity as being a larger engine with larger parasitic losses you need more amps to kick it over cold and restart it after stop start activation. So you get more effect from the variable alternator.
this ^^^

I’m sure you could sit down and work out the energy needed to compress a certain amount of air in a certain space from a certain speed calculating relative air density given the air pressure and making assumptions about the boost, the frictional losses in the moving parts and so on and more, but I have another 2.0L diesel which has the aerodynamics of a mini shaped barn and can assure you that most of what slows you down off the power on the golf is that Bluemotion stuff. Other 2.0L diesels don’t slow down on “engine” braking anything like the golf does
 
In aircon news. Bits acquired !!
IMG_0497.jpeg
 
this ^^^

I’m sure you could sit down and work out the energy needed to compress a certain amount of air in a certain space from a certain speed calculating relative air density given the air pressure and making assumptions about the boost, the frictional losses in the moving parts and so on and more, but I have another 2.0L diesel which has the aerodynamics of a mini shaped barn and can assure you that most of what slows you down off the power on the golf is that Bluemotion stuff. Other 2.0L diesels don’t slow down on “engine” braking anything like the golf does

Dunno about the BMT system but on the Citroën diesel they used to have an extremely hardcore alternator. It was connected with toothed belt so it could take/generate a fair torque loading.

Main reason for that was it was reversible so instead of using the starter to start the car, the stop start capacitor re-energised it and it started the engine.

Was used as the only way of getting a diesel to start reliably immediately. The standard starter motor couple of turns and then go you get on diesel just didn't work for a stop start application.

Of course, entirely unnecessary on the petrol as it starts much faster/easier, the capacitor was retained though but standard starter.

Weird thing about this..the diesel is 9 this year...Ford only discovered this tech recently.
 
Other 2.0L diesels don’t slow down on “engine” braking anything like the golf does
I think that is by design. I remember my dad had a peugeot diesel before it went all electronic. It had mechanical dampers on the throttle cable to reduce engine braking and make it feel more like a petrol. In the days when the gevernment were pushing diesel as the great saviour of motoring pollution
 
TA DA !


All fixed and air con super cold again.

Looks like the metal on the old part just fractured and broke away, the engine bay is so enclosed on this car that the broken part was sat neatly in the under tray.
IMG_0507.jpeg

I’m guessing the imbalance and the extra pressure on the other two arms caused the others to also break away from their locating holes in the pulley
IMG_0503.jpeg

You can see the damage done to the three nuts (for want if a better word) that located the arms of the centre piece.

IMG_0505.jpeg

All fitted the hardest part was the 14 or 15 screws that held in the wheel arch liner. I left it in the ultrasonic cleaning bath a little too long last night it took the black paint off… whoops !


They seriously went overboard with the fixings holding things together, there was also sound proofing behind the liner and sound dampening foam between the wing and the inner wheel arch to dampen noise. There was also a ton of sealant and wax all round the arch as well. So seriously well rust protected.

The car lives in a garage which I think shows as well even exposed metals were not corroded.

There are quite a few little dirt traps behind the wheel arch liner so I may go round the car and take all the arch liners out and clean behind them, in one place dirt had blocked a drain hole so water would sit in the top dip on a piece of metal so best sort it now before rust does set in

Oh and one final surprise was to find the sump is insulated !
 
Surely working A.C. belongs in the smile thread...

My grump fat fingered a pay by phone parking and replaced a 6 with an 8... invitation from the council to pay them 50 quid.
 
Already have, got the payment emails and confirmation texts I'd paid sent screen grabs, shall see what occurs.

Annoyingly the one I'd paid for was closer to the town centre so I've paid more for the error.
 
I drove Mrs. Cheest’s Fiat in Jeep clothing yesterday. When I pushed the start button, the button and lower fascia around the steering column moved. I asked her about it, as she was sitting next to me in the passenger seat.

Me-“Did you see the start button move?”

Her-“That? It’s been doing that for a few days.”

Me, after a slow burn-“Ya know, you’re great at pointing out my faults, why didn’t you say anything about this?”

Her, now staring daggers-“It wasn’t a big deal until you brought it up.”

Me-“It is a big deal because we are looking at a possible future electrical short and thousands in repairs if we don’t get it fixed because your warranty has expired.”

Her-“Oh.”

So, I won the battle but have probably lost the war.

Anyway, I dealt with it when we got home. I think this is a bean counter caused problem.
TgzKvRfl.jpg


One of the anchor points on the lower fascia completely failed and a second one was almost there. I was able to epoxy the two damaged anchor points and reinforced the third one. It seems pretty solid now.
 
Ahh same as wife’s but hers is old school key 2016…I have to say that the trim quality on hers is far superior to the neighbours brand new Compass hybrid
 
Puncture front right...it's a slow and it's been like that since the start of May.

But can I have 4 tyres that hold air..just for a change?

Of course my brain is thinking "ooh if it's not repairable then you can have a matched pair of new tyres on the front axle" but I've already bought 6 tyres in 3 years, a chance to wear one out would be a fine thing.
 
Interesting day today. Rather mixed emotions as a result though.

My older boy and his wife managed to "park" their son with the other granny and granddad and have been away "dan souf" (down south) for an extended weekend - nearly a week in the event - visiting Oxford and doing the "Morse" thing. They seem to have had a lovely time. They got back late Monday and rang us yesterday to let us know they were home safe but also to tell me the Punto wouldn't start, "just makes a clicking noise Dad". My younger boy is also away, down in Devon, but he's got his whole "tribe" in tow. Anyway, as I've not had a chance to really get stuck into his wife's Mazda2 (2014, so one of the very last before the "new look") which became a family member back in march, With both of them living to the south of the city I chucked my big jump battery, jump leads, multimeter and a few other accoutraments in the Ibiza's boot and "installed" Mrs J in the passenger seat and we set off for my older boy's abode. Yup, flat battery - 8.7 volts open circuit. It was running fine when they went away he tells me, and the battery was new about 3 years? ago - it was a bit of a "cheapie" though. Anyway, connected up the jump battery - which is about twice the capacity of the Puntos - Positive to positive and negative on the jump to an engine earth so as not to "upset" the battery condition monitor sensor on the negative clamp. I let it sit like this for a few minutes for the two batteries to equalize to some extent and then twisted the key. She burst into life quite enthusiastically! I didn't disconnect the jump leads but checked the voltage which was 14.2 - which would indicate the alternator would seem to be charging. I let her run like this for about 10 minutes so that the car's battery and the jump battery could equalize much more, stopped the engine and then disconnected the jump leads. It's always a good idea to let the jump battery and flat battery stay connected for some time after starting, particularly if you don't intend to stop the engine before disconnecting the jump battery, to avoid a spike in alternator output when the good jump battery is disconnected. Alternators charge quite strongly even at tickover and if you disconnect the jump battery as soon as the car starts then the alternator's regulator/ecu, upon "seeing" the very low battery voltage, might force a full output state - a "spike" - which might be enough to exceed the system voltage tolerance of multiple other system electronics! Ouch, expensive! I prefer to run the two together for a while (10 to 15 minutes is enough in my experience, maybe less if it's a small battery) then turn the engine off before disconnecting the jump battery. As long as you then immediately restart the engine it will usually restart. Why? because the flat battery plates will be holding quite a good surface charge at this point. If you don't restart immediately but leave it for some time, say 10 to 15 minutes, the surface charge will disipate more deeply into the plates and it probably won't restart. However, by stopping the engine before disconnecting the jump battery, you've pretty much eliminated the possibility of the alternator "spiking" the electronics. Try it, it works.

On this particular occasion though we didn't restart the old girl as I was going to connect my "smart" charger to her and let that charge her overnight. Pos charger connection to positive battery terminal, Neg charger connection to engine earth point so that BCM (battery condition monitor) on the negative battery clamp can be kept in the game. As long as it's a quality (C-TEK in this case) smart charger I'm very happy to charge in this way without disconnecting either battery terminal and, so far, haven't had a problem on anything I've tried it on - wouldn't do it with one of the old transformer type chargers though! I let the battery sit while we had a cup of tea so the surface charge on the plates could dissipate somewhat before connecting up the multimeter and seeing a figure of 10.9 volts now indicated. Then connected up the charger and gave older boy his orders as to what to watch for and how to disconnect once a full charge is achieved.

This car has the flashing mileometer problem, which I know usually indicates the blue and me module is "stuffed". I know this fault allows a parasitic drain on the battery but it's been like this for about 18 months now and, with the car being driven almost every day, I think the alternator has been balancing this enough so he's not had a problem. Anyway, we're going to see how the car behaves once the battery is fully charged and, of course, back to it's daily journey. Probably a week of standing idle was just too much. Now his wife works from home they've been thinking of making do with just the KIA, but keeping the Punto going for as long as I can has become a bit of a matter of pride! After all, might as well, he's not going to get a lot for a 10+ year old Punto 1.4 8 valve is he? Now would have been the perfect time to have used a battery analyser (I do fancy a Topdon 200) but still haven't won Mrs J over to the idea and expense!
 
Interesting day today. Rather mixed emotions as a result though.

My older boy and his wife managed to "park" their son with the other granny and granddad and have been away "dan souf" (down south) for an extended weekend - nearly a week in the event - visiting Oxford and doing the "Morse" thing. They seem to have had a lovely time. They got back late Monday and rang us yesterday to let us know they were home safe but also to tell me the Punto wouldn't start, "just makes a clicking noise Dad". My younger boy is also away, down in Devon, but he's got his whole "tribe" in tow. Anyway, as I've not had a chance to really get stuck into his wife's Mazda2 (2014, so one of the very last before the "new look") which became a family member back in march, With both of them living to the south of the city I chucked my big jump battery, jump leads, multimeter and a few other accoutraments in the Ibiza's boot and "installed" Mrs J in the passenger seat and we set off for my older boy's abode. Yup, flat battery - 8.7 volts open circuit. It was running fine when they went away he tells me, and the battery was new about 3 years? ago - it was a bit of a "cheapie" though. Anyway, connected up the jump battery - which is about twice the capacity of the Puntos - Positive to positive and negative on the jump to an engine earth so as not to "upset" the battery condition monitor sensor on the negative clamp. I let it sit like this for a few minutes for the two batteries to equalize to some extent and then twisted the key. She burst into life quite enthusiastically! I didn't disconnect the jump leads but checked the voltage which was 14.2 - which would indicate the alternator would seem to be charging. I let her run like this for about 10 minutes so that the car's battery and the jump battery could equalize much more, stopped the engine and then disconnected the jump leads. It's always a good idea to let the jump battery and flat battery stay connected for some time after starting, particularly if you don't intend to stop the engine before disconnecting the jump battery, to avoid a spike in alternator output when the good jump battery is disconnected. Alternators charge quite strongly even at tickover and if you disconnect the jump battery as soon as the car starts then the alternator's regulator/ecu, upon "seeing" the very low battery voltage, might force a full output state - a "spike" - which might be enough to exceed the system voltage tolerance of multiple other system electronics! Ouch, expensive! I prefer to run the two together for a while (10 to 15 minutes is enough in my experience, maybe less if it's a small battery) then turn the engine off before disconnecting the jump battery. As long as you then immediately restart the engine it will usually restart. Why? because the flat battery plates will be holding quite a good surface charge at this point. If you don't restart immediately but leave it for some time, say 10 to 15 minutes, the surface charge will disipate more deeply into the plates and it probably won't restart. However, by stopping the engine before disconnecting the jump battery, you've pretty much eliminated the possibility of the alternator "spiking" the electronics. Try it, it works.

On this particular occasion though we didn't restart the old girl as I was going to connect my "smart" charger to her and let that charge her overnight. Pos charger connection to positive battery terminal, Neg charger connection to engine earth point so that BCM (battery condition monitor) on the negative battery clamp can be kept in the game. As long as it's a quality (C-TEK in this case) smart charger I'm very happy to charge in this way without disconnecting either battery terminal and, so far, haven't had a problem on anything I've tried it on - wouldn't do it with one of the old transformer type chargers though! I let the battery sit while we had a cup of tea so the surface charge on the plates could dissipate somewhat before connecting up the multimeter and seeing a figure of 10.9 volts now indicated. Then connected up the charger and gave older boy his orders as to what to watch for and how to disconnect once a full charge is achieved.

This car has the flashing mileometer problem, which I know usually indicates the blue and me module is "stuffed". I know this fault allows a parasitic drain on the battery but it's been like this for about 18 months now and, with the car being driven almost every day, I think the alternator has been balancing this enough so he's not had a problem. Anyway, we're going to see how the car behaves once the battery is fully charged and, of course, back to it's daily journey. Probably a week of standing idle was just too much. Now his wife works from home they've been thinking of making do with just the KIA, but keeping the Punto going for as long as I can has become a bit of a matter of pride! After all, might as well, he's not going to get a lot for a 10+ year old Punto 1.4 8 valve is he? Now would have been the perfect time to have used a battery analyser (I do fancy a Topdon 200) but still haven't won Mrs J over to the idea and expense!
The above is only part of the story though. Having got the charger set up in his Punto at the kerbside - with his bright orange lawnmower extension lead so that, hopefully, noone will trip over it, We - Mrs J and I, jumped back in the Ibiza and went on out into "deepest Midlothian" where my younger boy and his family live. Noone in of course because they are also "dan souf" but I checked the house and garden, watered the plants and put out the rubbish bins - collection tomorrow, neighbour detailed to take them back in. Mrs J did a trawl through the fridge for stuff which would rot before they returned but the pickings were pretty slim. Good thing we went because they'd left the kitchen lights on!

While Mrs J was "tidying" I found the Mazda keys and went out to check it over for the drive back into town. Apart from a visual inspection and a quick run up the road when she bought the vehicle back in March, this car is an unknown to me. Tyres looking good and passed the "kick" test (which is a waste of time I know) Coolant level bang on, as was the brake fluid. Engine oil 3/4 of the way towards "full" so that's Ok too. Started the engine which made no nasty rattles etc but the radio was turned up so loud it nearly deafened me - what a fright! My boy told me the car has failed to start a couple of times lately. Never at the house, so not on a cold start, but when at the supermarket when leaving for home. So warm/hot starts? seen this before with failing crank position sensors, but he then went on to say, since she put petrol in it's been fine. Oh, how empty was it son? On empty with the red light on Dad. I despair. Suppose we'll just have to monitor it if it doesn't misbehave while I've got it.

When Mrs J had finished "doing stuff" in the house - tidying the kitchen, straightening living room cushions and rugs, etc, etc. we set off in convoy, her in the Ibiza and me in the Mazda for the 3/4 hour drive back home. Hmm, clutch feels a bit heavy to me? maybe they're like that though? I'll ask around. But, Oh dear, The town is chaos with diversions all over the place for King Charles. So we turned right and skirted round, down "the Wisp", to Portobello/Seafield and back home along the northern shore through Leith. Worked well, no real hold ups, must be all in the centre of town.

Mixed impression of the Mazda - 2014 Mazda 2 (did I say?) Brakes feel really good although I know the pads are low and the discs don't look brilliant. If the weather's nice tomorrow I'm going to take a look at them first - hope the rear drums don't "fight" me too much. With just 57,300 miles on the clock I'm betting the discs and pads are original? maybe just replace the lot? we'll see. Would hope the rear shoes won't need doing yet unless there's a badly leaking cylinder. Engine ran like a wee Swiss watch and is quiet even with the bonnet open, about all you can hear is the injectors clicking - brilliant! Steering wheel very slightly askew to the O/S and a very very slight pull to the right, you've got to be looking for it to notice though. I see it's last MOT called for a bottom ball joint. Either that's not been done, or done but not had the toe reset, (where my money is at this time) It'll be interesting to have a good look. Engine oil and filter were done by the selling garage and with only about 3,000 miles covered since look exactly as I'd expect, nice shiny filter and slightly dark coloured oil. so I'm sure they did that. Spark plugs are long life, apparently miles 67,000 or 7 years? with her low mileage maybe they're originals too? Looks as if gaining access is going to be entertaining as the air filter - which I want to take a look at anyway - is in unit with the main engine ECU:

P1100907.JPG


The straight ribbed bit to the right - not the air duct at the front right - is the ECU and to it's left is the air filter box (with the writing on top) It's all one unit. If you look closely you can see, at the front, one of the securing bolts. There's another just visible at the back left and there's one right behind the casing which you can't see (and is going to be a wee bit awkward to get at. If these three are removed and the air duct removed (it's a simple push fit) then if you release the intake trunking (rubber hose hidden under all this) the whole unit will lift off and then you can spring the clips - look carefully, they're standard finger type clips, you can see one in the middle and one on the left - and the bottom of the filter casing will drop off revealing the filter element. One problem though. I suspect, and have seen You tube videos, that the ECU multiplugs need to be released to allow the filter/ECU unit to be lifted off and they - two of them - are "hiding" under here:

P1100908.JPG

The problem is compounded by the fact that those round headed fixings are not rivets, they are the heads of shear nuts:

P1100909.JPG


You can see the threaded portion on the underside with a mirror.

Have to say I'd rather not undo the multiplugs anyway so I'll see if I can gently lift the case far enough to release the filter. Don't know what I'm going to do about the plugs yet because they are under all that lot, hiding down deep holes! At 47,000 miles they are way under maximum mileage recommendation but considerably over the age recommendation so I'd like to pull them for a look see. I suspect a wee clean up of the insulators and reinstall might be Ok. Just depends on what the business ends and gaps look like.

Anyway, got the car for another week so plenty of time to get to really know her and all her dirty little secrets? Just need the weather to hold up.

Edit. Think I've confused things regarding the mileage? at first I stated it had done 57,300 and then talked about 47,000 later on. Well, it's 47,000 in fact.
 
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If memory serves, undoing the 3 visible clips gets you about 30 degrees of movement and enough to slide the new filter in/old one out from the drivers side. But my scuttle panel may have been further away..

However exactly same set up as on a 3 which means there will be a few 1000 YouTube videos.

Never did the plugs though..they were done I just CBA to do them myself 🤔
 
If memory serves, undoing the 3 visible clips gets you about 30 degrees of movement and enough to slide the new filter in/old one out from the drivers side. But my scuttle panel may have been further away..

However exactly same set up as on a 3 which means there will be a few 1000 YouTube videos.

Never did the plugs though..they were done I just CBA to do them myself 🤔
Thanks Steven. I think it'll just be a case of easing it up gently and watching the wiring loom. If it proves too dodgy getting a workshop to do the plugs won't be that bad if I've done everything else. In fact it's just occurred to me that the lads at our wee Honda indy: https://www.bonningtonmillgarage.com/ might be into obliging me, in which case I might just duck out of doing the plugs. Mind you, if they were done when recommended by age then they'll be the second set and only half way through their life. Trouble is this car has excellent service history for it's earlier life but very little known for the last two or three years.
 
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