What's made you grumpy today?

[StevenRB45]

Final service of my VW service package today, and because of more than a couple of screwups on their part in the past, they threw in a free brake discs and pads change, given they had been claiming since 20,000 miles the pads where worn, and the car is now on 60k miles, I thought what the hell, and let them do the work, now that said I had looked at the brakes and they all looked fine to me....

“When you’ve change the brakes can you put the old parts in the boot”

“Yes” they agreed..

Well

If you see both the pads and the discs you’d not think they had done 10k miles. I’ll post a picture up tomorrow, but basically they look hardly used and I’m seriously considering putting them back on and saving the new parts till they actually are needed.

Considering I’ve now done 60k miles it’s amazing how little wear their is, although the car does have regenerative brakes and I’m very good at driving very long distances without needing the brakes, to me it’s no surprise how well they have lasted. To my wife who can burn through brake pads in 30k miles, it’s a bloody miracle.

Got me wondering how many people are changing their brakes on the recommendation of the dealership when the parts are not even 25% worn. The waste this generates and the expense not only to customers but the environment as well must be huge.

I wonder if stuff like this is why VW dealers keep getting a hammering in customer satisfaction surveys? Who knows?

I would imagine they are targeted on out of warranty services performed. So free brakes would be an attempt to win back a bit of good will before you are no longer obligated to go to them.

If they are targeted on customer retention you can a bit of fun with it..Mazda run a dealer competition which my local one is very serious about winning and have done so 4 times on the bounce so far, one of the metrics is how many year 5+ services do they perform.

As a result pricing on older cars is very bendy indeed. I was discussing servicing with the independent garage I use for my repairs, not the cheapest but do a proper job and don't create imaginary work. Obviously he was touting for business, and was somewhat mortified to learn that the main agent was cheaper than he was for minor service and mot. This year is a major though...so including a brake fluid and cabin filter change and a courtesy car surely they can't get near. Well they offered 50 quid off with no arm twisting..putting them at 20 quid more than an indi but they don't do a courtesy car.

 

[DaveMcT]

Pot holes are a major problem.


My 100HP with 15" alloys has a bucked wheel. My wife's 1.2 has 13" steel wheels no problems and she's not particularly careful to avoid potholes.

The Fiat 500 16" wheels must be a nightmare in ride quality and cost of damages.

 

[Schumi2001]

A main dealer will recommend replacement brakes if they believe the items currently on the car won't last until the next scheduled service.

For many people, on 20k intervals, they'll recommend replacement every service - because customers shout even more loudly about cars needing stuff like brake pads between services - 'why didn't you do it when you serviced it'.

My BMW dealer didn't do the brake fluid change on the last service, about 4 months ago. The car has been doing the BMW 'boing' every time I switch it on, telling me it's overdue. I'm really hacked off that they didn't do it with the last service as this now means another visit to them.

 

[varesecrazy]

Thanks Charlie. We've decided Becky is a "keeper" and I'll just be doing anything that needs doing as it comes up - until something absolutely catastrophic turns up - So I have had a very careful look at the suspension components on both sides. The struts are really pretty grim with the N/S now leaking copiously and the O/S very heavily corroded. The top of the damper rod (under the bonnet) on the O/S is protruding noticeably further out of the top mount than the N/S but, when you stand back and look at the car from the front it is riding slightly lower on the N/S than the O/S which seems to be saying to me that the O/S top mount is suspect and the N/S spring is weak? The two pinch bolts at the bottom of the struts look pretty grim too with the threads mostly corroded away. O/S spring is heavily corroded in places where the paint cover is compromised, the N/S looks in much better condition except for one very localized but heavily corroded bit.

So, as I'm hoping she's going to outlast me, (and Mrs Jock has developed a strong emotional bond) I'm just going to do a complete rebuild. Both struts, both springs, both top mounts (inc bearings) actually if I'm going to the extent of stripping struts on anything with more than moderate mileage I would always do the top mount bearings

Just on the basis that 2 heads are better than one, can you think of anything I've left out Charlie?
Regards as always
Jock

It was probably 6+ years ago Jock..so not exactly fresh in my mind.

The rubberware..gaitors.bump stop.

Has seen similar years service to yours..

But may have been moulded a fecade ago.. so your call.

Biggest thing I do recall:splitting the hex socket on the FIAT damper.

Bought a battery torque driver to rattle off the nuts after that..

Charlie

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

Biggest thing I do recall:splitting the hex socket on the FIAT damper.

Bought a battery torque driver to rattle off the nuts after that..

Charlie

"FIAT damper"? would that be the nut on the top of the strut which is visible under the bonnet or the one under that which holds the top spring seat in place? Either way I'm hoping my nearly new Chicago Pneumatic beast of a rattle gun will "frighten them into giving up without too much of a struggle!

 

[Paddynabs]

I put one of my kids old bikes on Freecycle as it's still OK to use for a toddler. Some bloke wants me to send him loads of close up shots to check its condition.

It's free mate, you either want it or you don't.

To be honest I can't even be arsed to wash it!

 

[Schumi2001]

He'll want it delivered, too!

 

[AndyRKett]

So here we go, brake pads that the dealer ship stated last June where “80% worn and would need replacing soon” and discs that are badly scored.

By my calculations the pads are a smidge under 31% worn, as you can see the discs are not badly scored.

Interestingly when the manager of the dealership phoned me today he mentioned (accidentally I think) that he had another similar complaint on his desk from someone being told their brakes need changing.

Like many dealerships now they send a video each time they do a service and the technician clearly states on that video they are 80% worn as well as recording it on the paperwork so he can’t really get out of that one.

 

[DaveMcT]

The mechanic must have been measuring the metal backing plates

I had the car MOT record brake pads being worn. When removed. they were below 50% but certainly not worn out so got changed anyway. I now always check and measure them before sending it for MOT.

For removing the scrap strut top nuts (as if Jock needs me to tell him) just lock a mole grip (vice grip) tightly onto the damper stem to hold it and snatch the nut with a breaker bar. For those who do not have a "windy gun" to fit the new dampers, use an ordinary power drill with the screwdriver torque set to max. Ste to high gear and whiz the nut down, it will stop suddenly at the bottom (hence the torque setting). You should now be able to torque it up in the normal way.

I use this method on motorbike fork legs which are notorious for the damper unit spinning inside the fork.

I use these in a two speed 18V power drill. They wont stand enormous torque but do not need to. They are very handy for winding in long bolts or nuts that take ages with a ratchet.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Power-drill-to-Socket-Adaptor-1-4-Hex-Shank-to-1-4-3-8-1-2-Square-Drive/111564579121?epid=25015789554&hash=item19f9c46131:g:n9EAAOSwLa9UW08l

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

I use these in a two speed 18V power drill. They wont stand enormous torque but do not need to. They are very handy for winding in long bolts or nuts that take ages with a ratchet.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Power-drill-to-Socket-Adaptor-1-4-Hex-Shank-to-1-4-3-8-1-2-Square-Drive/111564579121?epid=25015789554&hash=item19f9c46131:g:n9EAAOSwLa9UW08l

I bought a set of these too and find they make excellent nut spinners when used with my 18v drill (like you) Quieter than the "windy gun" too if I'm trying not to annoy the neighbours. I don't use the gun to fully tighten wheel nuts anyway, I like the "feel" you get with a power bar or torque wrench.

Extended service intervals probably do make it quite difficult to judge possible life left (because some people are "light" on their brakes whilst others use them excessively). So as it's a safety related item recommending renewal is the "safe" option. If I were to be cynical though I might think that it's a good little earner for very little effort (especially since most of the manufacturers now make it so you can remove the disc without stripping the hub down.) Makes another good reason to support regular yearly/mileage service intervals?

This "playing it safe" approach can be seen sometimes in the guise of MOT advisories. Some very strange things turn up as advisories and you find yourself thinking "why" but when you realize it has little to do with the MOT and it'a all about the tester trying to cover all possible situations - and his back - then it makes sense.

 

[DaveMcT]

I lost faith in the MoT when a whole page of checks were added for number plates. How does the font or the plate maker's post code have any effect on safety? That was 100% political so cars could more easily be tracked and scamera fines handed out.
A friend of mine has a removable plate on his motorbike. I'm not brake enough to do the same but he has never been stopped for doing it and he does not take the mick at speed limits.

 

[Steve145]

The temperature gauge already being off the pin when leaving work yesterday.

For the fourth time this year.

Today will be the fifth.

 

[varesecrazy]

I lost faith in the MoT when a whole page of checks were added for number plates. How does the font or the plate maker's post code have any effect on safety? That was 100% political so cars could more easily be tracked and scamera fines handed out.
A friend of mine has a removable plate on his motorbike. I'm not brake enough to do the same but he has never been stopped for doing it and he does not take the mick at speed limits.

They moved the test criteria..
to align it with the latest Haynes Manual

 

[s130]

I lost faith in the MoT when a whole page of checks were added for number plates. How does the font or the plate maker's post code have any effect on safety? That was 100% political so cars could more easily be tracked and scamera fines handed out.
A friend of mine has a removable plate on his motorbike. I'm not brake enough to do the same but he has never been stopped for doing it and he does not take the mick at speed limits.

According to the May 2018 MOT Testers Manual:

"You do not need to inspect the following items:

the supplier’s name
postcode
BS number
logos or emblems outside the minimum margin around the registration number"

So you can't fail an MOT on those items.

All rather strange because official number plate issuers HAVE to put that info on the plate. I think this is done to deter official plate suppliers from issuing number plates that do not comply with the statutory font and spacings. So if a vehicle is pulled by the police with plate "FIATS" which should be "F1 ATS" then the issuing official supplier can have their license revoked. It also protects the plate issuer because before they were required to put their info on the plate anybody could get new plates made and then say "that is how the garage/Halfords/etc supplied the plate to me".

https://www.mot-testing.service.gov.uk/documents/manuals/class3457/Section-0-Identification-of-the-vehicle.html#section_0.1

 

[jimboy]

I use a MOT only centre, no fuss, no iffy repairs. Only down side you have to book well in advance. Last year I forgot about my daily hack & had to plead insanity & telling them I'm a carer & need my transport what ever. I also put my old git routine on. Well something worked & although I had to go back with a front wheel bearing repair, (I did both) all good.

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

Snapped the top pinch bolt on Becky's N/S strut yesterday. Just going over to the Panda '03 to 12 section to give you the grizzly details - with pictures I hope.

 

[DaveMcT]

According to the May 2018 MOT Testers Manual:

"You do not need to inspect the following items:

the supplier’s name
postcode
BS number
logos or emblems outside the minimum margin around the registration number"

So you can't fail an MOT on those items.

All rather strange because official number plate issuers HAVE to put that info on the plate. I think this is done to deter official plate suppliers from issuing number plates that do not comply with the statutory font and spacings. So if a vehicle is pulled by the police with plate "FIATS" which should be "F1 ATS" then the issuing official supplier can have their license revoked. It also protects the plate issuer because before they were required to put their info on the plate anybody could get new plates made and then say "that is how the garage/Halfords/etc supplied the plate to me".

https://www.mot-testing.service.gov...dentification-of-the-vehicle.html#section_0.1

To be fair my comment was based on the early changes regards number plates. But it still stands that they are nothing to do with vehicle safety.

My bike MOT tester refuses to actually test the plate because at least 50% of his customers swap the plate to a legal one on his forecourt and swap it back afterwards. It makes a mockery of the test but the bike is legal when tested. The bikers concerned are a bit daft because speed cameras are more than good enough to read a tiny "show plate" and the rider risks two fines at the same time.

 

[StevenRB45]

Foggy commute...

The usual stealth cars running round on DRLs only. Why think when you have auto lights?

 

[SB1500]

The state of a number of big newspapers websites...

First, you've got the mandatory Cookie thing, that's fair enough. Can't avoid that. Still a hassle though.

Then you read the article, most of which is irrelevant facts about the company / person involved ("filler")...

There are advertisements throughout the article, on the sides, the top banner, and at the bottom of the article. Okay, it's free. Got to make money somehow. BUT.. there are most, laggy animation-opening ads springing up even more between the article.

Then a video ad on the bottom right appears and starts playing. God forbid you move your mouse over it and it'll blast it's audio on you.

They also have highlighted words in the article, and hovering over them brings up a pop-up ad too.

But, the final nail in the coffin is when they prematurely cut you off from the article. "Sign in and subscribe to read the remainder of this post". To me, this is when you leave the site, a little frustrated.

Why sign in? So that they can track you and milk you even more? The ad revenue is surely enough. Which brings me to my second point, why subscribe? I'd understand if they weren't already making a fortune from their advertising but absolutely no way. They don't offer anything of that much value anyway, just sometimes BS orientated to their distinctive political orientation, which, whatever direction it is, I object to because then how can it be impartial?

At work I use a browser incl. tracker and ad blockers. Some of these sites have the audacity to try and block you altogether for this, thankfully there are workarounds. But I don't even bother. It's not like their content is special, useful or very insightful to be worth the effort. Let alone the money they want or the hassle of the experience in the first place! :bang:

Thank god conventional journalism is dying. There's no place for it in a world where a great user experience and more balanced insight can be delivered with much less hassle, less bias and less advertising.

If conventional journalism was a person, it'd have a reputation for being a sh*t stirrer and conman. Good riddance.

Rant over.

 

[andydiver]

Quote : Thank god conventional journalism is dying. There's no place for it in a world where a great user experience and more balanced insight can be delivered with much less hassle, less bias and less advertising.

If conventional journalism was a person, it'd have a reputation for being a sh*t stirrer and conman. Good riddance. End Quote

Agree with all of your comments except this one. Proper old fashioned investigative and intelligent journalism has an important role to play in society, think of how they are often suppressed or even murdered by a state. While the overall editorial has always been biased individual journalists did and should have the nous to find and honestly report, having asked pertinent questions and fact checked before publishing. Editors might suppress information but professional ones will rarely have knowingly lied.

The issue these days is click bait and citizen journalism, well meaning or not, without the professional integrity, combined with restraint free publication on any and all platforms.

Good journalism is a profession /expert role. We don't need them any more, or any other professional expert, do we?