General water pump

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General water pump

Hi

fish and chips for me.

I'm off to the shoppe, good luck guys.

Noel
 
Skim and new head gasket.

It boiled before the fan ran.

On refill it ran for 3 mins...

Noel
 
I agree its back to basics time.

Start at the beginning again.

Yes. Strikes me that the poster does not follow instructions too well. For example, asked to connect 12v + to the fan motor he connects + and -, thus negating half of the value of the test (to test the earth side).

My best guess: the engine overheats because it's either full of sludge or /and the fan circuit has a fault on the earth side. The timing has slipped or there's no petrol in the damn thing (there should not be petrol in the intake manifold -- it's an MPI car).
 
Hi

If the head and cam belt has been off - is the crank pulley on in the right position, with the little locator pin in the hole?

If it ran for 3 mins then it probably is - just a thought ;)

jeremy
 
fuel in the intake would say to me that the cam timing is out... the cylinder is not going down (and hence sucking the fuel in) when the intake valve is open so it is just pooling...

Yeah, although as it's MPI, it's more a matter of fuel bouncing back, as it were. If, indeed, it is fuel and not condensed oil mist (which seems not uncommon on the MPI motors).
 
is it mpi?

*edit*

oh right yeh he said the rad has no fan switch = mpi

do the plastic manifolds lay back a little? if so then it wont be hard for the fuel to go back. or like you said it could be blowen back. which would still be as i said... bad cam timing.... valve opens on upward stroke of the piston
 
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again sorry to be off topic,

see water pump in a 14 16v it fits with the same mounti holes and from what kirtip, the internal (bits that spin and go inside the engine :p) looks bigger and more efficient ?

I'll see if i can find that picture again!

Ming
 
Dont you mean redo compression test again? Otherwise he will be out buying new elastic bolts already

Noel
 
ok heres an update,

i took the electric connectors off to the injectors and the car fired up first time until it ran out of fuel.

would the coolant temperature switch overfuel the car? if so im heading right down to fiats.
 
ive just got back from the motorfactors and now have a new temperature sensor, i have found it on the inlet manifold but am unsure of how to remove it because it has got plastic clips around the nut so you cant unscrew it.

Your test is excellent it would seem to indicate too much petrol was injected. But the engine will run happily.

You bought a temperature sensor already? see quote and your diagnostic person said the in situ sensor read 20C or so.

So it may not be the coolant sensor temperature is the problem.

If the sensor were bad it could also cause the fan to not run, and the engine to boil.

So I'd swap in the new sensor, crossing fingers first. If the car starts, then, I'd turn on the heater and run the heater fan, otherwise back to another new head gasket...

Noel
 
i would just unplug wires... spray them all with terminal cleaner and refit. sadly unlike aftermarket ecu its hard to see problems

the massive overfueling is usually caused by the air temp but depending on the ecu setup i guess it could in shooting loads of fuel into the poor thing...

I guess a bad earth can cause wrong sensor readings
 
What sensor is this? It is a four pin connector, the rear piece that goes inside the inlet manifold was covered in petrol when i removed it
 

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