General water pump

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General water pump

Are any of the warning lights on?

Did you check that the cam shaft was turning? Or that at least the belt was moving?

I'd lift the air cleaner and inspect the hoses for evidence of leaks and spray plug leads and coils with WD40 or other moisture dispersant, reassemble and try again.

Noel
 
Hi

yes the camshaft is turning fine. Would a faulty temp sensor stop the car running?

I will do as you say with the wd40 and update
 
The temperature sensor reading is necessary for air petrol mixture strength as if the sensor says it is Siberia or the Sahara desert... the ECU controls the injector suitably.

It may be the same sensor that controls the fan as well... donno mine is an SPI.

Did you quote the VIN to the spares factor?

Noel
 
Hi

yes they asked for the number when i ordered the parts, technically then if my temp sensor has failed then it could be saying the engine is a lot colder than it actually is which could fail starting, and also maybe why the headgasket went due to overheating.

am i right in thinking this?
 
You may be correct but you have to try to make the hypothesis 100%.

Do you have a multi meter, or access to one as the temperature sensor is a variable resistor, and we should be able to get the specification.

Have you located the temperature sensor in the car and does the one you bought correspond physically? It may be in the head or inlet manifold, donno.

Noel
 
Hi

yes i have a multi meter here, how would i check to see if it working correctly? what are the stages?

also i need to find the sensor to actually test it.
 
If your parts factor person got it correct the sensor in the car and the sensor in the cardboard box should have the same resistance on the multi meter, at the same temperature. You should not need to remove the sensor, if it has two connectors measure resistance between the connectors, disconnect the wiring plug if it is a plug.

To work ok the sensor needs to be accurate at 100 C, to switch on the fan...

It needs to be resonable at 10 C to allow the engine to start, it starts the car a bit rich and at high revs and then drops the mixture strength & revs if the temperature and lambda are ok...

Noel
 
i bought a new rad fan switch

The temperature sensor is probably what you bought...

It will be in the cylinder head or inlet manifold, almost certaintly.

It would be nice if an MPI owner owned up for us. Or you can try searching on the forum, Ive seen a photo in the past.

Noel
 
The sensor that i bought was the crank position sensor that lives right at the bottom of the engine near the drive belt lower cog
 
The sensor that i bought was the crank position sensor that lives right at the bottom of the engine near the drive belt lower cog

Yup, thats a crank sensor that 'looks' for the missing tooth in the pulley to tell the ECU where the engine is in its cycle.

If you have spark and fuel, then its possibly not that sensor thats faulty unless its giving a false signal. They usually just fail, rather than misread.

The ECU needs to know what temperature the engine is at to send the right amount of fuel.
If that temp sender is telling the ECU its colder than it really is, then the ECU will send too much fuel for the engine to cope with.

Its also possible that the sender for air temp or mass (whatever an MPi has) is telling lies. This would also upset the ECU.

I don't have the nominal values for an MPi car, but it might be worth a look over on the Punto section to see if they have them, the Punto 60 MPi is the same injection set up as the 1108 MPi you have.

Cheers

SPD
 
im going to and buy a temp sensor because its ppushing way too much fuel through and if you look through the throttle body theres puddles of petrol in there.

how do i remove the sensor?
 
Hi Matt
Your 1st post said...
Hi,

I went to the local motor factors and bought a new thermostat and a new rad fan switch (which doesnt fit)

Cheers
Matt.
You probably have got a temperature sensor to hand already? Unless the factor was sleepy...
You need to try and find the sensor location and measure the resistance.
If you had the head off you may have disturbed the connector?
Noel
 
ive just got back from the motorfactors and now have a new temperature sensor, i have found it on the inlet manifold but am unsure of how to remove it because it has got plastic clips around the nut so you cant unscrew it.
 
but you are removing the connector and measuring the resistor, not swapping things for fun...

If the new and the old are nearly the same there is no point in swapping... at least for your starting problem. If they are differnt you gotta remove.

Noel
 
The car is sounding a little better than it did, it sounds like it occasionally might consider to fire up but then doesnt do anything.

He put the car onto the diagnostics again and all is fine according to the computer.

The temperature sensor said something about 20 degrees he was saying to me.

He cant do anymore now because he has tested everything over and over including the timing and the new sensor i fitted earlier.

the car still wont start at all.
 
The car is sounding a little better than it did, it sounds like it occasionally might consider to fire up but then doesnt do anything.
Did you remove the air filter and WD40 every thing, plug leads, high tension coils etc., ... ?

If this does not work & if you wanna take risks with the head gasket, try spraying some winter start from aerosol into the air filter space - replace the air filter then try the starter.

This should start like a desiel (might be overpressure, hence risks to head gasket,...) and if it keeps running turn on the heater and heater boost to max.

If the hoses get hot and then rock hard run it to see if you get the fan to come on.

First i'd wire brush the radiator fan earth point and copper grease it, then do it up.

Noel
 
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