Technical Urgent help needed. Panda ABS light

[andystarks]

Hi folks,

I have an 08 Panda 1.2 Dynamic. I bought it as a cat N due to a small fire in the front offside wheel area. It was being towed and the wheel bearing apparently seized and caused heat, flames etc.

We have replaced everything with new parts but are getting an intermittent ABS warning light. It’s a new sensor.

We can clear the code (P1040 front right wheel speed sensor) and the light stays out until the car moves. Literally the car can roll 6” and the light comes back on!

We are at a loss. Could it be the ring was damaged or demagnetised by the heat? Literally all plastics and rubbers were obliterated and the wing had bubbled so it was a wee bit hot in there!

Any advice would be gratefully received.

Thanks in advance

Andy.

 

[A3jeroen]

Wrong wheelbearing?

gr J

 

[Cooler King]

Do you have the ability to check what signals are coming from the sensors, that could narrow it down for you. Try swapping the sensors over and see if the problem moves. Is the magnetic strip on the bearing? If so was in put in back to front? Could be a wiring issues, the ECU may not be getting any signal from the new sensor. All are possibilities, if you can graph the signals coming from the individual wheels then you will know where the problem lies.

 

[koalar]

P1040 front right wheel speed sensor

are you sure


ABS normally start with a "C" ?


of to double check

 

[koalar]

Google come back injector supply voltage fault ?

 

[koalar]

if C1040 it could be any sensor

mismatch

Read all 4 sensors with live data will tell you which is at fault

dont assume its the corner that had the fire ?

 

[chris3234]

Hi folks,

I have an 08 Panda 1.2 Dynamic. I bought it as a cat N due to a small fire in the front offside wheel area. It was being towed and the wheel bearing apparently seized and caused heat, flames etc.

We have replaced everything with new parts but are getting an intermittent ABS warning light. It’s a new sensor.

We can clear the code (P1040 front right wheel speed sensor) and the light stays out until the car moves. Literally the car can roll 6” and the light comes back on!

We are at a loss. Could it be the ring was damaged or demagnetised by the heat? Literally all plastics and rubbers were obliterated and the wing had bubbled so it was a wee bit hot in there!

Any advice would be gratefully received.

Thanks in advance

Andy.

What new parts did you fit?
New wheel bearing new abs ring if not part of the bearing new abs sensor and wiring?

 

[andystarks]

Hi folks,

Thanks for the replies. I can’t get to the workshop today to check if it was P or C but the message definitely said front right speed sensor intermittent fault.

I’ll list all the parts changed tomorrow when I have access to the invoices etc but, off the top of my head, it was everything that would melt or distort in extreme heat - abs sensor, disc, pads, calliper, all rubber components. The only thing that I don’t think was changed is the drive shaft and wheel hub.

But I will double check everything tomorrow.

Thanks again everyone

 

[portland_bill]

The wheel bearing has an impulse ring to give the speed reading. This is only on one end of the bearing. Most likely problem is that the bearing is in the hub the wrong way, so the impulse ring is not next to the sensor. Bearing will have to be removed and refitted the correct way around.

 

[koalar]

Hi folks,

I have an 08 Panda 1.2 Dynamic. I bought it as a cat N due to a small fire in the front offside wheel area. It was being towed and the wheel bearing apparently seized and caused heat, flames etc.

Could it be the ring was damaged or demagnetised by the heat?

Looking through your old posts you manged to buy an insurance CAT car twice. Around here there far too expensive especially if your not in the trade.

the purchase price of the car plus parts normally pretty much adds up to one in Good condition. But when fixed up its worth less due to it being recorded on the V5C

Wrong wheelbearing?

gr J

possible.

Hi folks,

Thanks for the replies. I can’t get to the workshop today to check if it was P or C but the message definitely said front right speed sensor intermittent fault.

I’ll list all the parts changed tomorrow when I have access to the invoices etc but, off the top of my head, it was everything that would melt or distort in extreme heat - abs sensor, disc, pads, calliper, all rubber components. The only thing that I don’t think was changed is the drive shaft and wheel hub.

But I will double check everything tomorrow.

Thanks again everyone

its unusual for a wheel bearing in a "car" to cause a fire. The only things related to the ABS within the wheel arch is the ABS sensor and wheel bearing.

 

[koalar]

By the way does the speedometer work

Some diagnostic software didn’t clear the codes probably


Just had this with a eco 1.2. If I cleared the throttle position sensor the light on the dash would go out but as soon as I increase the revs it would come back. Cleared fine if after clearing I switched the engine off and unplugged the obd connector

 

[andystarks]

Looking through your old posts you manged to buy an insurance CAT car twice. Around here there far too expensive especially if your not in the trade.

the purchase price of the car plus parts normally pretty much adds up to one in Good condition. But when fixed up its worth less due to it being recorded on the V5C

Hi Koalar,

Thanks for the reply.

With regards to the insurance cat status, it is not shown on the V5C. The only way to know the status is either though the honesty of the seller or an HPi check. So, buyer beware.

Yes, I have bought insurance cat cars before. I will only buy cat N (non-structural damage, previously known as cat D) vehicles as they have purely cosmetic or bolt-on/bolt-off types of damage which are within my skill set. Cat S (or C as they used to be) are structurally damaged and that is beyond my skills and comfort level. Sometimes the only place you can find a specific vehicle is at an insurance auction. And, if you buy carefully, you can get a very nice car for very little money. Just make sure you know what you are bidding on, what needs doing to it and whether or not it’s for yourself or to sell on.

I am back at the workshop today and will have another look and try some of the tricks people have kindly recommended.

Thanks again to everyone for your help and advice.

 

[andystarks]

By the way does the speedometer work

Some diagnostic software didn’t clear the codes probably


Just had this with a eco 1.2. If I cleared the throttle position sensor the light on the dash would go out but as soon as I increase the revs it would come back. Cleared fine if after clearing I switched the engine off and unplugged the obd connector

The Speedo appears to be working absolutely fine.

I’ll try the diagnostic reset as you described and get back to you later.

Thanks for the pointers.

 

[koalar]

The Speedo appears to be working absolutely fine.

Thanks for the pointers.

speedo get its information from the nearside front ABS sensor. At least we know 1/4 is working fine


put up the live data for the sensor and spin the wheel

heres some examples faults

http://4cardata.info/elearn/169/2/2009000/2000901/2001395/169000829


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sd-duZ2RCKA