Technical Two problems

[Clayman]

I've got two problems
First some scroat has played with the rear wiper and now the motor seems to be knackered as nothing moves and the motor part of the assembly gets very hot when power is applied. Is it time for a new one or am I missing something? If so does anyone know where I can get one.
Second, the gear change has started to get very stiff but only after the car has been used for about 5 to 10 miles. There is no stiffness when the engine is off. So is the clutch on its way out although it seems fine and will pull away in third. the cable has about inch and a half (approx) left between the end and the adjustment mechanism. So ideas please.

 

[dronenrs]

problem 1 : sounds like the motors encountering high resistance but trying to turn. if you remove it and feed it with direct 12v does it turn.
problem 2: hows your gearbox oil ?

 

[Clayman]

Thanks I'll try the first.
But on the second hate to sound stupid but is their a dipstick or filler point?

 

[dronenrs]

on the gearbox casing there is 2 bungs. remove the one at the top and stick your pinky finger in if the level is near the top of the bung its fine if not refill through the same hole till it comes out of the hole. dont touch the lower bung this is for draining the oil out

 

[fingers99]

12mm hext bung (allen key fitting) at the front of the box. Which car? May have a spare Cinq wiper motor. PM me.

 

[blu73]

sounds simple but people are silly sometimes, need level ground to check gearbox oil level

theres a few cinqs and seis being broken in the classifieds also

 

[Clayman]

12mm hext bung (allen key fitting) at the front of the box.

Can't find a bung needing a hex key - just a plastic plug as in the photos (assuming I'm looking in the right place! So is this right? If so I need more gearbox oil.

 

[dronenrs]

you need to go under the car to see it

 

[andys cinq]

if you look under front bumper on the passenger side there is a black canister and the bung is about halfway up the front face of the box directly behind the canister
going under mine later so can send pic if required

 

[Clayman]

Before I start faffing at the weekend can I check this is the right place?

 

[blu73]

thats the badger

 

[Clayman]

Right - oil level seems OK and I've topped it up until it overflowed but not much was added. The change is still stiff in first and second and noisy into reverse but only when the car has warmed up. Do I need to adjust the clutch cable and if so how and what is the limit. I had a Fiat 128 light years ago but I can't remember how to do it and the limit - even if it looks like the same technology!!

 

[Pep0]

If the rear wiper has not been used for a while the bush can seize, remove the assembly from inside the auto and free off with WD40. Had to drift mine out and remove the rust...

If the box improved with cable adjusting notmally this means the clutch is on the way out, replace cable as well in this case, normally the cable snaps just after you replace the clutch....

Better then a replacement box...

Noel

 

[Clayman]

Hate to sound V stupid but which way to adjust - towards the open end or towards the top of the cable. I think towards the open end but is there a limit - half an inch/12.5mm from end or what? I seem to remember that last bit from my old 128.

 

[Pep0]

Tighten the nut about 1cm if that makes things worse loosen by about the same. Until you find a pisition that works ok.

The box shold not need much force they are very light for girlie drivers. You may need to be deliberate, i.e. slow, or someone may not have used the correct oil...

The thrust bearing needs to not run in contact with the clutch pressure plate, the official procediure for ths does not seem helpful.

Noel