Tuning turbo time!

[craigb244]

These things are usually made up of 30-40 schedule mild steel gas/steam pipe. Bloody thick and pretty much indestructable. That way you also avoid the horrors of dis-welding.

way ahead of you.... sourced a local manufacture of butt-weld gas pipe.
uber thick mandrel bends only a couple of quid each.

VERY easy to weld.

bends might be a bit wide but i can cut them to make it tighter.

 

[craigb244]

And fit it under Cinq's hood together with a 16V engine, are you insane?

im in no rush
plan to make a jig to bolt to the engine on the bench so i can build it all off the car and not have to lay on the floor.

then when it comes to it i can drop the engine in the car and everything should bolt up without much fecking about.

... I hope.

 

[fingers99]

You can usually get 90, 45 and 60 bends and straight sections -- fettle as you go -- you don't want penetration, so TIG makes for a neater weld.

 

[craigb244]

yep they also do each bend in long and tight radius.

 

[whitz]

surprised that in you haven't got a front of a cinq to test fit an engine in

would be better to show slam panel clearance and if need be a way to strengthen it just encase of a bump

Ash

 

[Munkul]

interested to see the design and what size pipe you go for are you going to offset the turbo to make oil filter changes easier?

I went for 1" sch10 T304 with double TIG welds. Not equal length though

 

[craigb244]

interested to see the design and what size pipe you go for are you going to offset the turbo to make oil filter changes easier?

I went for 1" sch10 T304 with double TIG welds. Not equal length though

how much u pay for your bends?

 

[bad_boy_cinq]

I've got most the bits together now to make a s/s tubular manifold. I also went for 1" butt-weld gas pipe to make mine from. All i've got to do is make a decent jig and get cracking.

 

[fingers99]

Looks good. I think schedule 10 may be a bit on the thin side, though -- more suitable for a N/A mani?

This details a nice extension to your (hopefully) long nosed die grinder..........

 

[Munkul]

at 1" sch10 is 2.7mm wall which is thicker than a LOT of aftermarket turbo manifolds. Absolutely Bang On. Remember whatever thickness you do, it will need braced...

But if its mild steel then obviously you want thicker.

Matt - nice, your manifold should look awesome

 

[craigb244]

coilovers fitted.... I wound them about 3quarters up the thread and the car was still lower then my lowering springs!

I dropped on side to see how low it would go... the wheel was under the arch and sitting on the arch liners with still a inch to go... lol

now setup to the specs from my mates cinqucento trofeo in tarmac settings

 

[Todger182]

They look good slammed .

Thanks

X

 

[craigb244]

pfffttt... slam all you like... I wont be the one stuck on speed bumps or in a ditch somewhere

 

[fingers99]

at 1" sch10 is 2.7mm wall which is thicker than a LOT of aftermarket turbo manifolds. Absolutely Bang On. Remember whatever thickness you do, it will need braced...

I'd sooner support the turbo -- after all, that's what's stressing the mani. Tripod rose jointed one asused by everyone in F1 should do it, although mounting point may be a bit awkward.

But if its mild steel then obviously you want thicker.

The Stainless used by most aftermarket folk is 304. It's not too good metalurgically at those temps. 6 series stainless is much better (Inconel, for example) but a pig to weld and bloody expensive.

Coated mild steel should be cheaper and as effective as Inconel (albeit heavier).



[/QUOTE]

 

[Munkul]

Thats what i said, braced, supported etc yes rosejointed awesome tech one would be nice but it doesnt NEED to be fancy, 90% of people in the game get away fine with solid braces if the manifold itself is made well.

there are pros and cons of mild steel - like you say, at high temps its better and the effects of heat cycling arent as bad. But, it oxidises and collects soot. It doesnt seem to be much of a problem, just doesnt look great... you coat it on the inside and you risk it chipping and damaging the turbo, you coat it on the outside and it will kill the metal twice as fast...

Make a manifold properly from well specced thicknesses and brace it properly, thats your main problems right there whatever material you use. I think we can agree on that.

 

[craigb244]

rosejointed manifold mount makes sense on a F1 car where the metal is im guessing likely to be very thin and unlike road cars dont have loads of hangers holding up 90% of the weight. and we wont ever see the g-forces they will.

mine will just have simple bars welded between the pipes/turbo flange where i think will be best then bolted to the block

but really with 3mm thick walls on the manifold and a turbo as small as ours. i doubt any problems will ever occur is the welding is good

 

[craigb244]

no updates... been working on my mates car still.

centos mot up in 3days... last night had catastrophic turbo failure.
think it has been creeping up over the last few weeks because i noticed a dull hum on boost but thought it was the tyres.

built another turbo with a slightly smaller turbine (gt15 iirc but not sure on the trim... might be from a pug or rover) and the same compressor.

so far it feels good... boost at 2k (so dropped about 500rpm to the same at the standard astra turbo) but yet to see if it strangles the engine at high rpms

 

[fingers99]

Hanging a decent brace for the tub may be an issue, but they're not really high tech (unless a rose joint is high tech). If I can get hold of some Ti tube in the right dimensions it could be fun and I have some old rose joints knocking about (all right handed, though). I recon a T15 weighs about half as much as a Cinq battery, so it's quite a chunk.

At the mo I'm skint and my mind is turning to a quickly removable front end to allow easy access.

 

[Munkul]

no updates... been working on my mates car still.

centos mot up in 3days... last night had catastrophic turbo failure.
think it has been creeping up over the last few weeks because i noticed a dull hum on boost but thought it was the tyres.

built another turbo with a slightly smaller turbine (gt15 iirc but not sure on the trim... might be from a pug or rover) and the same compressor.

so far it feels good... boost at 2k (so dropped about 500rpm to the same at the standard astra turbo) but yet to see if it strangles the engine at high rpms

hey are all garrett 3 bolt GT15 turbine housing flanges the same size?

Im tempted to try a bigger turbine housing on my rover turbo, thats all, but CBA changing anything else. Ported the wastegate on mine today, 50% more area and its helped with boost creep but i still want to try a few different things including EWG.

 

[craigb244]

I dont think any flanges are the same... think most of the turbos in our size are made to car manufactures spec. got 3 GT1549 turbos and non are the same.

If you find the turbo has nice response. and the intake is not restricting the engine then a ewg would be a good thing to have like you say