Most gearboxes will crunch or baulk slightly when selecting reverse.
They tend to get worse when either the car's still creeping forward or the rpms are still higher than normal idle, ie bad driving!
If it selects first ok without a struggle when stationary, but running, it's probably ok for now at least.
I seem to think I've read a post of yours regarding the starter motor.
Clutch problems and starter motor issues might be due to a weeping or leaking input shaft seal.
Gearbox oil and friction plate dust might be your problem with the starter, but oil on the clutch plate would normally cause slip, not drag.
Hydraulic issues tend to be one of three.
A leak.
With a leak it obviously won't transmit the full movement of the pedal to full movement of the slave as some fluid escapes.
It can also draw in air to the system, air compresses, hydraulic fluid doesn't, so you get the same effect.
You may notice the ressie is low or you find fluid dripping off connections and/or pipe work.
Old or contaminated fluid.
Clutch and brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs moisture really easily , it'll even pull it out of the air, which it why you shouldn't use fluid out of an open container.
Water in the fluid tends to cause it to lose it's properties and can, in the case of brakes, cause the fluid to boil a lot sooner than it should.
Manufacturers tend to advise the brake and clutch fluid is replaced every two to three years.
Master and/or Slave seals worn.
If the seals are worn on the rod/piston of either master or slave, when you push against the fluid, it doesn't transmit the force but passes back or out passed the seals.
If this happens in the master cylinder it's hard to notice any leaks, but slaves with worn seals tend to leak.
Probably best to check them in this order.
It's also worth mentioning, most brake and clutch fluid is extremely corrosive.
If split on the paintwork and not washed off quickly, it'll strip paint off the car, left long enough it'll also damage the metal underneath making it impossible to repaint.
It's also really nasty stuff if you get it on your skin, and don't try drinking the stuff!
There's a few written guides for bleeding a punto.
http://fiat-punto-cars.info/clutch/111-clutch-hydraulic-system-bleeding
https://www.fiatforum.com/punto-ii/112771-help-bleeding-clutch-2000-punto.html
Once you find the bleed nipple, it's pretty straight forward and any bleeding of clutch/brake guide would be fairly valid.
To save a bit of time and effort, if the ressie is full to start with, suck out the old fluid first with a syringe and a bit of pipe and top up with new fluid before starting, otherwise it takes longer to pump all the old fluid in the ressie through.